FASS Placement
03-29-2006, 11:32 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by crobtex
I'm not sure where it came from. I got it from Diesel Dan. I don't know if he just ordered the parts or what.............
Try some of the vendors here on DTR. I think there is more then one "big line kit" offered.
Mine is tapped on the outlet side of the fuel filter.....on top. I don't remember who it is, but someone on here has a good pic of the setup, complete with the needle valve to control the pressure to the gage.
Try some of the vendors here on DTR. I think there is more then one "big line kit" offered.
Mine is tapped on the outlet side of the fuel filter.....on top. I don't remember who it is, but someone on here has a good pic of the setup, complete with the needle valve to control the pressure to the gage.
http://www.sourceautomotive.biz/sa_dodgemenu.htm
Couple pics in my gallery too.
03-30-2006, 08:07 AM
#17
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The way i did my FP tap is i got 2 more Posi Lock connections with the 1/2" pipe. (Micah, anyplace that deals with oil wells will have this stuff....that is where i got all mine...the reducers....might have to get creative on that one.) Then got a 1/2" Pipe T fitting. I made a reducer to bring it down to the 1/8" Pipe needed to tap the gauge. Works great.....RJ has the same setup on his.......since i installed his FASS WAY BACK WHEN..........hahaha
AS far as i know, i think the fuel heater only works when you preheat the truck in the morn. I could be wrong but i did hear this....i think. All 2nd hand....You can run the stock canister without the filter just fine...
If you take the stock filter housing out...you do not need the Big line kit that i mentioned. AND yes its a DPP number. This is what your dealer will need to order it for you.
AS far as i know, i think the fuel heater only works when you preheat the truck in the morn. I could be wrong but i did hear this....i think. All 2nd hand....You can run the stock canister without the filter just fine...
If you take the stock filter housing out...you do not need the Big line kit that i mentioned. AND yes its a DPP number. This is what your dealer will need to order it for you.
03-30-2006, 10:14 AM
#18
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Originally Posted by Geico266
I agree post filter is better.
I have an issue with your leaving the stock filter on though. I might be wrong (would be first time in 15 years) but the FASS removes air from the fuel. The stock filter set up may be adding air back into your fuel? I guess after awhile all the air would be gone.
Just a thought.
I have an issue with your leaving the stock filter on though. I might be wrong (would be first time in 15 years) but the FASS removes air from the fuel. The stock filter set up may be adding air back into your fuel? I guess after awhile all the air would be gone.
Just a thought.
Any leak will cause hard starts, low power, or dripping fuel.
I hope it's not adding air! Especially under pressure
BTW, on '98.5's and '99's you can't run without a filter in the filter housing. I tried, and did a thorough job of diesel pressure washing the entire drivers side of my motor,, LOL.
Merrick
03-30-2006, 10:29 AM
#19
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you can run without the filter in the canister. been doing it for a year now, the outer ring of the filter is the (gasket) for the housings. I cut it off the old filter and put it in and tightened it down like normal.
03-30-2006, 11:35 AM
#20
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Most members living in states where the winter temp does not get much below 20* are going the other way... trying to reduce fuel temps to prevent heat soak and to extend life of our VP-44. I would (and did) definately do away with the fuel heater/filter cannister in these areas.
in northern climates, the heater (canister) is probably needed in the winter, but I might bypass it in the summer.
My full temps (without heater), measured at the fuel tank, regularly run 15* higher than outside air temp. Other have done extensive testing on this and the +15* seems to be universal... with one exception. After shutdown, heat soak under the hood, builds fuel temps to about +50*.
RJ
in northern climates, the heater (canister) is probably needed in the winter, but I might bypass it in the summer.
My full temps (without heater), measured at the fuel tank, regularly run 15* higher than outside air temp. Other have done extensive testing on this and the +15* seems to be universal... with one exception. After shutdown, heat soak under the hood, builds fuel temps to about +50*.
RJ
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