im going to put on exhaust wrap and was wondering if there is any special way to do it or any tips you guys could give me. thanks any info asap would be appreciated.

 

most ive seen people wrap just like taping a harness, seen a couple use hose clamps and the cleanest clamp design was using cv boot like clamps. and i dont personally know anyone that uses this stuff on daily drivers but a theroy is they trap/wick water or moisture leading to premature rotting of whats underneath. all the stuff ive seen the factory use is aluminum/stainless type stuff probably better than mesh type for moisture

 

I read somwhere that on paper/in theory it will net you 10% more mileage due to the lost heat energy escaping before the turbo.
Let us know how it goes, might be worth it.

 

ok so jnicewan how am i going to get moisture in a exhaust wrap when i drive my truck daily and the egt's will burn off any moisture? anyways i installed it on the downpipe so far and wow! i ran it up a steep grade under full throttle, pulled over opened the hood and put my hand on the down pipe for 5 seconds and the temps felt to be around maybe 180 degrees. i recomend this to anyone who wants a cool efficient engine. i cant wait for this weekend to do the manifold. also i highly recommend spraying the wrap with water before you install it because theirs fiberglass and it flakes off and gets annoying on the skin. it took me no time to install it and it actually felt like the turbo spooled faster. i give this product a 10 out of 10 and two thumbs up and even 5 stars! the best 50 bucks ive spent on the truck besides a oil change. i dont understand why this isnt a more discussed and used item its amazing and cheap. i will let everyone know how it works on the manifold as well.

 

I'm interested in this now.

 

it is such a difference in heat can you imagine touching something that just 2 seconds ago was 1400 degrees and now is only 180 i will stand behind this product and im not even a salesmen lol

 

I was going to wrap my down pipe cause i was worried about the fire wall insulation burning up but it was fine so i saved $30. Ive seen exhaust down pipes for dritymaxs and power chokes that come with exhaust wraping on them, i would think it would help cool things down in the engine bay on them cause of all the exhaust piping but i dont know if it would help much in our trucks cause of where the down pipe is. Wraping the turbo and manifold i could see cooling things down some but i would think wraping those would bump EGTs, most people cant afford higher egts.

let us know im interested too.

 

there is no change in egts everything is running better under hood the only thing it has to do with the egts is it keeps them in the down pipe instead of heating up your turbo oiling system, intercooler air charge. if you can keep the heat were it should be why would it be a bad thing?

 

keep us posted i am thinking about wrapping my exhaust manifold and down pipe also.

 

I wrapped my downpipe and used the spray on coating.My truck is not a daily driver so I wanted protection from corrosion. I just changed turbos and to an hx40 style downpipe and simply swaped the wrap from one to another.After a year on the truck there was no rusting whatsoever.Iv'e also used the wrap with the coating on motorcycles that take alot of road spray with same results.

 

i have wrapped the pipes on my motorcycle, it will collect moisture, i have seen some bike that it caused to rust thru. if you drive daily it should not be a prob, i used about half the width of the wrap as overlap. they make some nice stainless clamps like cable ties, would have to put 2-3 togethers to go around pipe though

 

the only down side i have seen so far is since all the heat stays in the down pipe it seems like the cool down time to 350 takes maybe 30 more seconds if that. but thats the only down side i have seen so far... oh and when its curing it smells like @$$. but it went away

 

where did you buy the wrap from ? did you wrap your exhaust manifold ?

I heard somewhere else that if you wrap a stock manifold it will crack. dont know if it is true but i dont want to find out.

 

Pipe wraps do collect moisture. I have seen the comments regarding driving it daily. Yes, that will cook off any moisture. As soon as you shut it down, the metal cools and moisture condenses. Not too much of a problem on a stock cast irom manifold as they are pretty thick.

The best way to help prevent this slightly is to use the sealing sprays for the header wraps. It works and saves you from having to rework the wrap in a year. It comes in a rattle can and is pretty cheap.

I chose to not wrap my exhaust but have it ceramic coated instead. I didn't do it for mileage but to keep the underhood temps down and to protect components near the twins.

I am unsure about the mileage gains in a charge air motor, but if it works, I sure won't dispute it. I did not see any mileage increase in my case.

Keeping the heat in the exhaust definitely provides more drive energy and helps keep velocities up. So, it's not a bad thing.

Dave

 

(From another post elsewhere)


- As most of us know, there is about an average of a 300*F temperature drop across the turbochargers' turbine (pending fueling, WOT or not, etc). That being seen as Per-Turbo, and Post Turbo, Before, After, what ever . . .

That temperature drop represents the Thermal energy that's being converted to Mechanical energy. The heat (energy) of the exhaust gas is being converted to the rotational force (energy) of the turbine shaft.

That mechanical energy is what provides the power to spin the compressor's impeller (the spinny thing)


Cooling of the exhaust gases by losses through the plumbing or otherwise results in less power for the compressor.

The upside in insulating the hot stuff will mean more power to the compressor (which is more air, not necessarily more HP at the crankshaft).

The downside is that the plumbing will run hotter than that not insulated. If the plumbing components aren't able to withstand the typical loading at an elevated temperature, then early failure can occur.
If one reads the fine print of most of the common header wrap seen in Summit or Jegs, you'll notice a disclaimer about the headers rusting out VERY early for example. Iron, steel, etc, corrode at a higher rate at elevated temperatures. Most metals also become weaker at elevated temperatures (see a lot of fine print).


When installing the twins on my heap, I went ahead and had all the hot stuff silver-coated to keep as much heat in the exhaust gases as possible. On the flip-side, I painted all the cold-piping satin black so as to help Dump heat from there (Colors like white and silver tend to reflect heat like a mirror whereas dark colors like black tend pass heat such as is seen on a solar panel or a heat-sink on a high power stereo).




Oops. I'm yammering.





The fly in the ointment is the fact that we're dealing with cast iron which is much heavier. It's gonna be slow in soaking up heat like in a drag race setting, and equally slow in releasing it. In a more realistic setting such as a work truck, I think it'd still be of benefit in the long run.

Things such as this have a much greater impact on thin-wall exhaust plumbing.