All right so I figure while I have the money and then time in June when I return home from Iraq I am going to spend some time and rebuild my engine!!! I figure it will keep me busy for a little bit . So here’s the deal I have put together a list of things I want to do to it. Can everyone please give me a list of things that I might also need to do or want to do while I am working on the engine and also a list of things that I might need to add to the list of parts! Thank you

ARP Head stud kit
4k GSK w HD Valve springs
Super B turbo
DDP 75hp injectors
AIR Dog fuel system
PDR CAM
Head ported and polished
Water/meth
Intake manifold
Exhaust manifold
Afe stage 2 intake
Total seal gapless piston seals
And possibly a shot of NOS for fun on the track
Full DTT Transmission

I want to do most of the work myself mostly because I want to learn how to rebuild a Cummins engine. And I need something to do for that first month home. I do have a mechanic friend that is going to help me on this I’m not going to attempt this myself . the only things I don’t think I want to do is the Head work which I will probably have MASS Diesel do, and also I don’t know about tackling the Transmission unless it’s not that hard to order the parts from DTT and do it ourselves I would love to but I have never done a transmission before so what do you guys think?

Also how much HP TQ does everyone think I will be around and how will my fuel mileage be affected I’m hoping will all of this that my fuel mileage will go up a little bit. my father filled my truck up yesterday because he has been using it just to do some running around and paid $4.29 and he always looks for the cheapest fuel.


All of my fuel lines are rotted out right now so I am put new bigger lines on and they are installing the Air dog now for me. But question? The lift pump that’s on there now is mechanical right??? So when the install the electric air dog what do you do with the mechanical lift pump??? Do you just disconnect it and leave it there???

Thanks for everyone’s help!!!

 

Personally I'd stay with the mechanical fuel system instead of doing any electrical one on the 12V. (Because with the right cam you have more than enough fuel from the mech. LP for approx a bazillion HP at higher revs- much more than you have air for. )
I usually just replace the stock lines with 10mm ID rubber fuel hose from within the fuel tank to the lift pump, and from the LP to the IP if I do go wild. (And I get rid of all the banjos- LP-IP isn't that necessary on a 12V IMO) The return line can be done with 8mm ID hose.
I'd also take a really good look at the return line valve on the IP since the spring in there goes weak over time.

I'd consider a Helix cam and the Sportsman valve springs, and instead of the SuperB I'd look into twins.
If you keep your pistons you could do some ceramic coating of the crown to keep piston temp. in check,and the exhaust manifold to improve spoolup.

I'd also think about a set of gauges with warning flashers or beepers. (EGT comes to mind)

The DTT tranny is a very good idea, don't try to wiggle out cheap regarding shafts, all the power won't get you nowhere if you tear up the shafts.

Fuel mileage depends on timing, AFC setting and your right foot. As a rule of thumb, the black cloud from your tailpipe is money thrown away.

Just my 2c

AlpineRAM

 

ok thank you,
ya i was planning on using the air dog system more for the dual filters and the concept of a fass system. i have a full set of guages comming. any more suggestions from any one else???

 

gapless rings are not for a street application, plus the 2 piece total seal design does not work well the end gaps can rotate and align defeating the purpose.

You need to figure out what hp you want, what you want to do with the truck, what rpm range you want to make power in ect..

 

Ok I was looking at using the gapless design because someone else on here used them and highly recommended them he said that it really quieted down his engine. but maby i wont use them now


Basically i dont have a Hp goal i want a good strong daily driver with the abbility to tow a 10k load and something that i can bring up to the track on the weekends

but most of all with the $4.49 price of fuel right now i want to get the best fuel milage i can out of the truck everything that i was looking at doing to the truck was saying a 1-4 increase in mpg's so im hopeing to get atlease a 5-6 mile per gallon increase and i drive with a light right foot anyways

 

well i wouldn't count on all the claims adding up on the mpg. however instead of digging into the motor here would be my suggestion for you.

Pump tune (3k's 100 plate mack plug and 18* with a good tune up on the test stand)
ddp3's
bd towing twins
.020 over gasket, and orings.bolt or studs either will work if bolt use new ones
60lb springs
shim the overflow valve or replace it with a bypass regulator and use the stock fuel system.

result, up to 500hp with ability to tow, and a stock cam with mild timing and towing compounds should yield some very nice mpg's

 

ok will the cam help or no?? honestly heres the deal i come home from Iraq in june i have 3 months with nothing to do before i go back to school so i was planning on pulling the engine and doing all the work mostly because it will give me something to do that i enjoy and i will be learning something new just before i go about doing all of the work i want to make sure that i have a setup that will work

 

yes a cam will give you a wider more power band, it may also (depending on whos profile) move the band up in the curve

 

ok sounds good now just so that i know why im actually doing it and why im spending the money on it what does porting and polishing my head do, and what does cutting the back angle do to help my truck?

thanks for all the help so far

 

porting is much more beneficial than a cam imho for some one looking to run stock rpms. the ports in the 12v head are very restrictive, and a good port job will yield lower egts, less smoke better spool up and turbo response and more power.
ive seen a good port job gain an honest 100 hp. (on a race prep head)

cutting a back angle on the valve is a trick to allow it to flow more air.

 

ok awsome thank you for the info

so heres the list that i think im going to go with how much hp/tq should i expecet out of it once it is fully tuned

ARP Head stud kit
4k GSK w HD Valve springs
Super b turbo with the option to upgraid to BD towing twins in the near future
DDP 75hp injectors
AIR Dog fuel system
Helix2 cam
Head ported and polished
Water/meth
ATS Intake manifold
ATS Exhaust manifold
Afe stage 2 intake
#100 fuel plate
water/meth injection for EGT's
And possibly a shot of NOS for fun on the track
Full DTT Transmission


with only the ddp 75hp injectors will a set of delivery valves make a difference?

 

anyone im wondering so i can decide weather i am going to go with the full DTT trans or if i can do just a tq converter and valve body and how much hp tq does this trans need to handle?

 

i would do the full trans why set your self up with a week link in your truck while its out don't waste your time do it right the first time

 

ok any ideas on what hp/tq #'s this should be around?