Well I finally got around to making an extension harness and switch for my ez. It wasn’t too hard, we had all the weatherpac connectors at work, so I didn’t have cut the original harness, just made an extension to get it into the cab.

I ran it under the carpet to the driver seat



Than up into the center console



I switched both wire and can turn it on and of wile I’m running and it doesn’t throw any codes

 

Wouldn't a relay to shut it off be easier? I would only needit if I had to undergo a snap test and wanted to cut smoke.

 

You would still need a switch to control your relay, also you would have to have a power source and ground to power the relay. Relays are usually used to control high amperage circuits with a low amperage signal wire. All I wanted to do was open and close the circuit.

 

Hey Charlie8301

When you switch the EZ on and off, are you just switching the Data Link connection? By this I mean, when the EZ is "off" is it still acting as a boost fooler thru the MAP sensor? Or are you turning the EZ completely off? I'm assuming the 2 switches are switching the 2 data link wires.

I'm going to do the same thing (just waiting for my weatherpak connectors). I'm just going to switch the data link off and keep it as a fooler. There are lot's of times when I don't need the timing and fuel of the EZ and just run the DD2's. Especially real cold mornings, the rattle/knocking can be a little scary with the EZ timing cranked in.

Or are you switching the EZ right "off" returning the truck to stock per say? If so, what wires are you switching?

Very curious AND interested!!

Jeff

 

Homestead
your right on the money

Im switching just the data link, so that when its off it acts like a boost fooler. For most of my driving I dont need the timing and fuel of the ez, but now when I want it all I have to do is throw the switch. I can switch mine on the fly but you have to make sure that you hit both switches at the same time, otherwise it throws a code.

 

I figured that was what you were doing.

Excuse my lack of terminology, but I'm going to use a single switch to control both wires. Double pole single throw is what I think it is called. Then there is no problem with switching at the exact same time.

It's a whole lot easier than going under the hood and unplugging it everytime. Like you said, I don't need the timing and fuel a lot of the times, so why not shut it off.

Thanks for the info, now I know I was on the right track.

 

Charlie 8301, please do a schematic of your wiring. I think a switch on the EZ is
a great idea.

 

Me too, Good idea.

 

The wiring is really quite easy. If you look closely at the data link connector the three ports will be labled (A,B,C). Only 2 of the ports are used (A&B I think). Make a circuit from the "A" port of the data link on the truck, through your switch, and back to the "A" port of the connector on the ez. Do the same thing with the "B" port. you can either use 2 switches or a double pole single throw like homestead

Truck
data link
A port------------------------Switch---------------------------A port
B port------------------------Switch---------------------------B port
C port -- not used

 

You can get the weatherpak fittings just about anywhere. Napa, Autozone, etc.

All your really doing is making an "extension cord" between the factory data link plug and the plug on your EZ wiring harness. Except your extension cord has an on/off switch in the middle of it.

You could just as easily cut the EZ harness and extend the wires, but this way keeps it more "saleable" if you ever wanted to upgrade to a Comp.

 

So the switch goes into your factory wiring, and not the EZ?

 

if you're not going to get the connectors, I'd say the EZ wiring.....

 

You would put the switch in the extra harness you make to get in the cab. I would not mess with the factory harness

 

OK, never mind, I jusr reread and your switching the data plug not the map....... DUH!

 

What you are technically doing is putting a switch between the EZ harness and the Data link plug on the engine. Putting the switch there under the hood is obviously a pain in the butt so you move the switch to where ever you want it in the cab. Then you make a harness to go from the end of the EZ harness to the switch and then back to the Data link plug on the motor.

Instead of A to B, you are going A to Switch to B with wires in between

Jeff