Dynoed my truck this weekend, 340 HP/761 ftlbs. Sound like respectable numbers? I'm running edge comp (made same power on level 4 as level 5, clutch slippage I would imagine), 4" exh., scotty II, DD2s, custom fuel system. EGTs never broke over 1300, 30 lbs of boost.

 

Are you running with the wire tapped?

 

yes, wire tapped.

 

I bet the wire isn't really tapped. Did you use the scotchlock that came with it? Pitch it and use something like a Swenco Posi-tap or something a bit more robust.

I was only getting 10-20hp or so increments from my comp levels and peak power was 360/800 (Mach 2's and a Comp). Turned out that the scotchlock didn't really penetrate the wire. Went to the Posi-tap and found my power.

With the stock turbo I could easily hit 1400*+ and start to overrun the wastegate (set to 35 psi) on 5x5.

You should easily be in the 400's, probably about 450hp.

You're really not trying to hold this with the stock clutch, are you?

 

wire is tapped good. Yes, stock clutch on the 6 speed. SB clutch coming soon but had the chance to dyno locally so went ahaed and did it. Usually don't have a problem with clutch issues as long as I don't hammer down in lower RPMs. Figured the lower EGTs coincides with good intake and exhaust flow.

 

With your HO...I would expect 370 to 390 hp on a stock turbo.....and the ability to peg your EGT gauge!
Have heard of same HP on level 4 & 5 with HO engines. More fuel...but not more HP.

A hybrid turbo, like pc12 driver has, should add 20-30 HP by allowing the burning of more fuel.

RJ

 

I ended up with 460hp/940tq with the wire properly tapped. Subtract 20-30hp for the stock turbo and you still should be solidly into the 400hp range.

With my big AFE, 4" exhaust, DZ/14, and Haisley cam my egt's can still hit 1400* (at about 100mph). If you haven't broke 1300* with the stock turbo, something ain't right. I've got enough fuel to run the bigger turbo/housing solidly against the wastegate @ 40psi. Either the wire ain't tapped correctly (and if you used the scotchlock that's entirely possible) or the clutch is slipping and not letting the engine load up. And if the clutch was slipping that badly you would certainly smell it.

How do you know the wire is tapped properly? My scotchlock did break the insulation but wasn't making contact with the wire 100% (makes for some hilly dyno graphs - sometimes). You should see AT LEAST 200* difference on the top end between levels 1 and 5.

 

If the wire was not tapped, would it not have fueling control with different levels? I can definately adjust power levels/smoke levels with the box.

I'll try a different form of "tapping" the wire to see if there is a difference. Thanks for the help, guess I have more power to look forward to.

 

I used the "grabber" from TST...like it a lot. http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...PROD&ProdID=40
Then, of course, you can solder it...but that a little too permanent for me. Your choice but these are the only two ways I would consider.

RJ

 

much appreciated, I'll give it a try on the re-tapping of the wire.
Next step is to get a clutch to hold the power. What clutch is the better choice for pulling light loads (car and trailer 6000 lbs) and still street friendly?

 

True, you wouln't have control over the different power levels (you'd be stuck on 1), but all five sub levels do work. You will feel a change in responsiveness and see a change in smoke, and maybe have a slight hp gain for all the sub levels even if the wire isn't tapped.

I thought mine was working when I first put it on. I left my sub levels to match my power levels, so there was a noticible increase in smoke and SOTP feel as I changed power settings on the box (when I was only really changing the sub levels). But when I got on the dyno I only had a 20 hp difference between levels 2 and 5 (and only 360hp total) I knew something was missing.

 

South Bend Clutch OFE. Not quite as grabby as the FE but will still hold your power. Maybe the FE if you're planning on adding more power (500+), tho.

 

Well that seems to make sense now on the power levels. I didn't seem to see much increase in HP #s with increases in power levels, just minimal change. I'll post back after I redo the wire.
Thanks for the info on the clutch. Distributors for the clutch (good price)? Besides a possible resurface of the flywheel, is the clutch all I should need for the 6 spd?

 

Yep, just the clutch.

Plan on the flywheel resurface. Mine took quite a bit of grinding to clean it up 100%. Any hotspots left in the surface of the flywheel will make the clutch more grabby (it will be a tad more grabby than stock anyway, but not terrible once you get the hang of it).

Can't help you on vendors; I just drove over and bought mine directly from SBC.

 

thanks for everybodys help