You do realize this thread is 4 years old right? Just checking!

 

*Sigh* Yeah, I guess I should just ignore all the info and the knowledgeable people in it then, huh?

 

I know you were just joking, but I respect someone who ACTUALLY uses the search feature, obvious by the four year old thread. And just by looking at the names in this thread (alot of the REAL "Big Boys" in diesel) it must contains tons of good info. Why start a new thread when you can better an old one, keeps good info in the same place instead of starting 6000 threads on the same thing. Nice find! Hopefully some of the same guys will respond so you get some good hard info.

FWIW my headgasket started mixing fluids, and to buy some time I did a retorque and it stopped it, at least for awhile, however I do have studs. Don't know if it will stop your leak but its worth a try right?

-Alex

 

Thanks Aosi. I found a ton of threads when I searched, this forum is an excellent "Resource".

I don't think mine is mixing fluids, least not yet.

Think I should loosen and retorque or just go from where they are? The pan has been off the engine and it's history is unknown, maybe they're just not tight enough.

 

This thread is 4 years old, so some of the info is probably somewhat stale or obsolete.

It is still a good reference point from an informational, educational and historical stand point but I think you would be better served with more up to date threads that will probably involve some of the same posters/members if you are looking for up to date exact information.

 

I agree that some threads can become obsolete so to speak but I dont believe this is one of them. I mean, they are discussing 12mm, 14mm, ARP, even the custom age 625's are mentioned, aren't the CA 625's still one of the best choices in a 12mm stud? Even if there are/were new things available these guys are discussing engineering principles...so change the numbers, use there calculations, same stuff.

I do see what you mean though...

-Alex

 

I agree to a point, but let's not muddy up all the good info talking about how old a thread is.

Scientific facts about how metals (studs and blocks) behave don't change much, there may be better products out there now though.

My situation is probably not as "hardcore" as this thread, but hey, if I don't make another thread, it's one less the next poor jerk has to search thru.

Also, if I bump it up to the top, maybe the big boys will stop by and update the info.

 

Wow, a minute apart! Anyway I forgot to answer your question. I know to do a proper retorque on studs, you have to loosen the nut, lube it, and retighten with a smooth non-jerking motion. If you tighten it almost all the way, stop, and then try to jerk it to get the Torque wrench to click you are fighting static friction. You want a nice smooth action to get a "true" torque. This is one at a time also. I don't know if this process changes for normal head bolts? But I would assume it would be close...I try never to give any advice without first doing it on my truck...so this IS what you do on head studs, I dont know how much the process changes with normal bolts.

 

I totally agree and I wasn't making fun of him, I was literally just making sure he knew, nothing more nothing less!

 

I realize that, I was by no means "calling you out", more commending him for searching before posting. Didn't mean it like that, sorry for the confusion.
-Alex

 

I really enjoy these thread started or commented on my Don M, your really a sharp guy and I enjoy reading your posts. I have the ARP 625+ studs and yes they are expensive but compared to redoing the head after a blown gasket I think they are cheap insurance. What really is significant is the "feel" of when you torque down the regular ARP's compared to the custom age 625+ studs. When I did the 625+ studs you could really feel the head "lock down" hard on the block. I"m in pretty good shape but doing 26 of those with retorque's really was a workout. And I have had zero problems with them. They really are impressive studs

 

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Alex:

I read your post above there and want to add that in "torquing" or "re-torquing" the studs on our trucks, not all torque wrenches are created equal either!! My Son, John Jr., who goes by "banshee" on this website, recently got one of those high dollar "Snap-On" Digital Torque Wrenches at around $600.00!! Recently, we did a "re-torque" on a truck and my older "Craftsman"
Torque Wrench was reading 25 lbs. LOWER than his new "Snap-On!"
A subsequent calibration check of my "Craftsman" revealed in fact, that the torque wrench was off by that much!!

So, my advice is "have a good quality torque wrench when you do those studs" as it is pretty critical in holding that head down!

--------
John_P

 

John,
This is great advice. Thanks for adding what I missed. It is definitely important to get an accurate torque wrench to get the head on there nice and solid. Unfortunately I can't afford the high dollar stuff however my neighbor used to be a Goodwrench mechanic, so he lets me borrow his snap-on (non-digital) but it gets the job done. In my opinion a head that is expected to hold the kind of boost we put through our engines should definitely not be thought of as "just" tightening bolts. Its almost a science, where sequence, procedure, technique, and tools can make or break your end result (as proven by my fire-ringed head which blew twice in well under a year because the shop didn't torque it right, needless to say whats on there now was done by me, and so far so good.)
-Alex

 

what did you guys torque the 625 studs to?

Thanks.

 

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Dshiftff:

I am pretty sure it is 96 ft.lbs, but you can shoot Don a P.M. to make sure if you want to.