I have the DiPricol White faced gauges. I have never noticed it before, but my EGT's start out each day at 2<br>When it cools down it sits on 2. I can let the truck sit for a couple days, and the same thing happens.<br><br>Why dosent this gauge go back to 0? <br><br>Since it starts on 200, when I am sitting at 1,000, am I reading 1,000, or is it actually 800 because of the start point.

 

HG...don't know about the Dipricol, but my Isspro shows 200f at idle when first started up in the a.m. Takes a while to cool back down to 250f after driving awhile. (Pre turbo of course) Dang pyro and tach move almost in synch while rowing through the gears

 

I've noticed the same thing with my DP's except it does drop down below 200 eventually. Arrive at work 6:30am, shut down around 275'ish. 3 hours later the guage reads 200, 7 hours later it was at 100. Go figure???<br><br>

 

I can let mine sit for 3 days and it is still on 200?<br><br>I think its broke?

 

Guys think about it a minute???? What are you measuring with the pyrometer? Engine temperature right? Does you engine temperature get to &quot;&quot;ZERO&quot;&quot; when it's 90* outside? DAAAAA. What is your body temp &quot;normal&quot; inside if you were to check it with a thermometer up your butt?? :<br><br>Steve

 

mine also stays a 200 at startup and when sitting withour running for whatever amount of time

 

do the autometers do the same?

 

If the pyrometers are working properly, all brands should read something higher then &quot;zero&quot; unless you truck is frozen in time at the South Pole. The acuracy of these gauges are 50+ or - at higher temps.<br><br>Steve

 

[quote author=HeberRam link=board=7;threadid=15065;start=0#142961 date=1054129905]<br>If the pyrometers are working properly, all brands should read something higher then &quot;zero&quot; unless you truck is frozen in time at the South Pole.[/quote]<br><br>Steve nailed it, unless you're running an air core pyro (such as the IssPro EV series) with a signal amp box that switched on with a key. But as soon as the amp box gets power, your pyro should move to approximately the outside air temp (actually temperature of the air inside the exhaust manifold). <br><br>Rod

 

I also have white face Di Pricols, but mine usually reads under 100* in the mornings, which makes sense.<br>Was your thermocouple lead shortened or modified? My understanding is the length of the lead can affect calibration.<br><br>Roy

 

Roy..you are correct, how much I don't really know. Regardless of brand, the thermocouple and lead wire should not be shortened or lengthened. In addition the wire from the thermocouple lead wire, to the gauge should not be altered. Each brands of pyrometer gauges, are calibrated on the probes and wire size and length. There was a TDR article about this sometime ago, about not mixing probes, wires and gauges, because each brand acts differently.<br>Steve

 

DO NOT SHORTEN OR ALTER THE PROBE WIRES!! AS steve said. The gauges work off the resistance in the wires. This was all calibrated at the factory where the gauges are manufactured. <br><br>Also, my buddy has a Comp box. It will give the actual temp upon cold start. Usually about 65* or so.

 

There are several gauges on the market that look good, but over time will give false readings, needles stick, etc. The most accurate, longest lasting gauges that I have worked with are Westach. Not the prettiest, but so far the most reliable.