Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

De-Moding my truck...??

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Old Dec 13, 2007 | 09:09 AM
  #16  
cumminsdriver635's Avatar
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From: Garrard county, Kentucky
Nope, you didnt mess up on your valve job. It's just something the 94 and 95 trucks do. For some reason the 160hp, and 175hp truck do that. Every one I have ever seen has. Mine has done it ever since i have had it. It used to cut out right around 3k-3100rpm free revving. I put a new overflow valve, and lift pump on it, and changed every filter in the system. Dropped the tank, cleaned that one, cleaned the one by the fuel heater, and changed the fuel filter,and still no luck. It will rev to about 3800rpm free revving now, but it still stops pulling right around 3k to 3100rpm. I have a #0 plate, so that is not the problem. If your fuel filter is dirty it will cause the problem to be a little worse though. I have heard of people having them put on a flow bench, and calibrated that still had the same problem, but they said when they upgraded to a good high flow fuel system, the problem went away. I think I am putting a Carter 100gph pusher pump on mine real soon, so I can let you know if that clears up my high RPM stuttering or not. Id like to get it to pull to 4k if I want it to, so my goal is to get a few more RPM's out of it with the pusher pump. It is a weird problem that i havent found an explanation for yet, but it is definately a common problem, and not just your truck.

Sounds like you have it back together and running good though.

Eric
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Old Dec 14, 2007 | 04:59 PM
  #17  
West Coast's Avatar
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From: Reno,Nevada
Update:

Eric the smoke screw works great. Truck with valet switch on with no get past 1000 EGT's no matter how much I step on the go pedal. So I am very pleased with that. Now with my truck now reving past 3K Piers Diesel thinks it is my stock DV's not pushing enough fuel for my 80 HP injectors. But I see that you (Eric) also have larger DV's with the same issue?

I have a rebuilt IP and new lift pump. As well as a new over flow valve. So I know my fuel system is running as good as it will get for my truck...

Truck still runs 100% better than the 3K kit. Fuel hard right to 3K now. So I am still very happy with the outcome.....

Eric do you remember where you set you 4K springs at? Did you use a caliper setting? I was at .147 then bump it up to .165 to see if it would help with the RPM's cutting out at 3K. Obviously it did not but man the two extra clicks make my RPM's come right up to 3K like a pumped up Small Block Chevy..!!!

Eric explain more about the Carter pusher pump? Where would I mount it? Do I not use the lift pump then?

Thanks.....
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 04:22 AM
  #18  
cumminsdriver635's Avatar
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From: Garrard county, Kentucky
Im glad the smoke screw adjustment worked out for you. I figured it would. I can make mine run pretty good in valet mode, or turn that screw out and make it a dog I really like using valet mode when im hauling. Dont have to watch the EGT's, and cant hurt my tranny.

As for bigger DV's stopping the sputtering. I was hoping they would on mine, but it didnt help it a bit. They should be flowing plenty of fuel, and it still does it. We will see if the pusher pump fixes it.

I used an old set of calipers we had to put my 4k's in, but all i did was measure the stock stud protrusion, and when i did, there were 2 marks perfectly lined up on the el cheapo calipers i used, so I just made sure and set the 4k's to where they had the same amount of stud protrusion(lined the marks back up) I definately like my 4k over the 3k though. It has more pull all around than it did before. I wasnt expecting that kind of difference really. I dont have them set very tight either.

The carter is $122 at Jegs. It is the Carter 4601hp pump. You could run it stand alone, but what I was going to do was leave the stock lift pump, and let this one feed it. I dont want to get rid of my mechanical pump for reliability reasons. I hate to put an electric pump on it at all, but I want to get rid of the sputtering up top, so im gonna try it. You just mount it on the frame rail back close to the fuel tank, and run your wiring back to it. The factory fuse box under the hood already has a relay and everything for an electric fuel pump that comes on with the ignition, so wiring should be easy if you tap into that. Basically just cut the metal fuel line, mount the pump, and run rubber line off each side of the pump back to the metal, and clamp it down. You could also use a pump like a holley blue or black, but I think the carter is more reliable myself. I can let you know if it works when i get it done. Should be right after Christmas.

Eric
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 06:53 PM
  #19  
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From: Reno,Nevada
Yeah Eric keep me updated on the electric fuel pump. Speaking of electrical connections. I have a wiring harness on the passenger side of my truck right under the long rubber gasket that seals the back of the hood. Anyone know what the plug is for?

Thanks again for everyone's help with my HG and 4K kit.

Dave
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 03:08 AM
  #20  
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From: Garrard county, Kentucky
Well, the ECM and all those wires run under there. Where is the plug at? Or is the ECM what you are talking about?

Eric
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