Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

Correct head install?

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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 05:50 PM
  #1  
jaymo's Avatar
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From: Oklahoma
Correct head install?

OK I know it has been discussed before but I cant find it.
My head is finally back from the machine shop and I am ready.

Already bottom tapped the block and set the head on top. I finger tightened the studs in and backed off 1/2 turn. All of the nuts and washers are on and finger tight. Now I think Don M put it that I go 60 90 120. Am I correct?
And then should I do one heat cycle and re torque?
I would like to drive by Monday , but dont want to mess up all this work I just went thrue.......

I am so freakin excited to drive this thing, its been three months.

Thanks ...Jay.....
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 06:14 PM
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From: lewis center, oh
why go to 120, when cummins specs call for 90? look at the threads of the guys that stipped the threads out of the block doing this. i''m doing a head gasket today/tommorrow, and you can bet i won't be torqueing to 120.
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 06:37 PM
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Man I wished I could find the thread which all of the specs were given. But I do remember that with the ARP studs and molly lube Its like 98 flb's but that Don M does his at like 122 flb's.

Its not the amount that I am more concerned But when and how many times to Re torque.
I thought someone said They re torque 3 or 4 times ' after heat cycles of course.
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 06:50 PM
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From: Eastern Shore of Maryland
Tighten 40 60 90 start up and get to 190 then let cool and retorque 110 drive around easy for a week or so and get a couple of heat cycles on it and then retorque to final 120. That's what i did when i put studs and did O rings and retorqued a couple months later

Last edited by dzlfarmboy; Mar 16, 2007 at 07:22 PM. Reason: mistake
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 07:05 PM
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From: New England
I hope Don is OK with me stealing his advise on torque for the studs. Here is something I copied a couple of years ago.

Quote:
First time cold engine you do: 50, 75, 110. In sequence. Warm the engine and let it cool to 140 degrees. Retorque everything to 120. After several days of heat cycles relieve the TQ and go back to 122 ft lbs.

A few weeks later in stressed applications I go back and relieve the TQ again on a warm but cooled engine and TQ to 122 again.

This has been a formula for 100% success in sealing them up.

Don~
Unquote

I followed his advice with no problems with studs pulling out or stripping.
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 07:21 PM
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From: Oklahoma
Thanks Dzlfarmboy.
Thanks Bent, that is exactly what I was looking for.


The truck in your sig looks awsome. Hows it run?

Well that was probably a dumb question. Just seems like a powerful combo.

I am hoping to put up some good ET's this sumer. The only thing missing is the air. But that will come soon enough.....
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 08:36 PM
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From: lewis center, oh
oh, i guess i'm just the dummey, here. i was thinking of bolts, not studs. do yourselves a favor and just disregard everything i every write.
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 09:05 PM
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Hey no worries. I take in every thing and appreciate all responses.
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 09:16 PM
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From: oakdale, california
well when i did the new gasket and studs on my head i followed the intructions on torqueing, 25, 50, 80, 105, 125 or something like that and then i warmed the engine up a few days later and retorqued everything to 125, no problems yet, and this weekened i plan to do another retorque of 125. just following the instructions i got with the studs. hope nothing breaks


jason
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 09:49 PM
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I took mine to 120 foot pounds after first heat cycle with ARP molly lube, drove it 400 miles and then pulled them to 135 foot pounds. There is a couple of guys around here that have pulled them to 145 foot pounds they are braver than me.
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