I have a 1998 12valve 53BLOCK its going to be paid off shortly at which time the money I was making payments on it with will be going into the motor. I need to know most cost effective way of dealing with the block problem. I am wanting to make the truck mainly into a dynoqueen. So I need input fuel pump stuff I am good with internals with price and turbo setup with price would be great?

 

start with a newer block, if you are going to do any machine work it would be money well spent

 

Ditto. Throwing good money after bad is all too often done.

Far better to start with a newer (or brand new) block if you at all can.

It's almost like some guys I know who will spend $500 getting mods done to stock cylinder heads on an old muscle car when they could have bought a lot more performance for just a couple dollars more.

jmo

 

The 53 block on the 12 valve isn't as much of a concern as it is with the 24 valve block. In fact, I don't think I've ever heard of a 12 valve 53 block cracking.

 

Check my posts.


My opinion on this subject is run it until it breaks. The 53 block, has a weak outer casting, from the water jacket. Structurally, its still sound. There was a dyno video of some truck putting down good numbers with it dumping coolant all over the place.

How big are you looking to go? How many RPM? If you aren't looking at running huge RPM, you should be pretty safe with the stock bottom end. You could leave the short block alone, port the head and get it ringed, big pump, big injectors, big timing, big turbo, etc. Atleast you're still have the money you would've spent on a new block. And if it cracks in the water jacket, you can buy a new one, and then spend money on getting the bottom end balanced for higher RPM. And if you end up windowing the block, you're gonna need new components anyway.

 

I think the truck you're talking about was a 24 valve. Either way, I know some guys have gone over 800 with a 12v 53 block without issue.

 

he said it was a 98 12 valve

 

I don't think power has anything to do with it cracking. What I am trying to say is that if I was going to spend $1500-2000 on machining the block, $2000 for new pistons, and all the other things(better rods, big roller cam) I would not take the chance.

 

i was told if your worried, to pull a freeze plug and measure the thickness just below it if it's .250" or bigger your good. there are also 53 block braces. they say cold/heat stress causes the crack i started my truck everyday last few winters not plugged in and many of those starts were -30. thats just my input i don't blame you for wanting to do it right the first time.

 

How much power you thinking about running? well its gonna cost ya a new block anyways, run her hard. Its already broke so why fix it. A stock engine is good for at least 700 to 800rwhp. Your running a VP, so run some juice and some meth. Some of us old schoolers, used to fill the block with resin (hemi stuff) and run smaller amounts of coolant. Its just a dyno queen or dragger so why bother with throwing $$$ at it. Once you get a crack then buy new stuff. Its easiler to sell to the wifey. Why not break something thats already writen off. Dial her in first and see what you need. CP3 boys already make more hp than us VP boys, so why not throw some juice into the mix, you might have a winner. You never know...Cheers at least thats what I would do.

 

If you're pulling the block out for machine work, at that point it would makes sense. But unless you need machine work done now, I'd run the original block until it actually requires being replaced. Save money when you can. You could pick up an older 12v block when it comes time to replace the 53. The non-storm blocks have 14mm main bolts vs. the 12mm bolts in the storm blocks, so there is a free upgrade there with the old block.

 

I am unsure of the RPM's I would want to be spinning. I am wanting to make like 875HP-950HP on fuel only. If its possible to get more for reasonable money more power would be great. This truck is only going to do dyno runs its a 5spd. so dragging is worthless. I would think 5gsk would probably be better than 4gsk just cause you can fuel alot longer. I am really unsure on on the whole engine machining parts stuff I mean clueless. So...

 

You could almost go with a stock rebuild except on the pistons. You'll need to get them fly cut. Fire ring the block. Crank gridle and ARP studs on the mains. As Tate indicated go with the bigger studs on the head, as it will improve the ablity to keep the cylinder pressure inside the cylinder. The most expensive piece will be your injection pump. Unless you know how to get one to work, you'll have to buy one. The next will be the head, maximum porting and heavy springs on the valves. Roller cams and roller rockers are pretty high end, and pricey. For the power level you're at I wouldn't bother. Helix 3 would be enough. Then you'll have to find a turbo set-up to work for ya, which isn't cheap either but its only money. It all depends on how exotic you want and how much your wallet will take. Why not go drag racing? You might be able to get real fast times but you should be into the 11's. Thats pretty fast for a heavy truck. Good luck, keep us in the loop, as we all dream about building such a motor. I want to build a 6.7L, twin CP3, twin turbo 700+rwhp street hauler. Of course I can't tell that to my wife, as I might be sleeping in the garage.