You don't even need to mess with the high beam circuit or a diode with rattle rattle's set up.

 

If you read his post it states he added relays. Maybe it won't be hard on the wiring without the relays, I sure do not know. Every time you interrupt the wire cover you make it susceptable to corrosion. Yah I know add die-electric grease, how long did you say you were going to keep the truck!!! For what it's worth I have pierced wires and am living with it. I do try to make every attempt to avoid problems later, like add die-electric grease or soldier the wires and then coat them with liquid tape.

 

Good catch! I saw where he discussed 2-30 amp relays per light as the best solution, but missed where he said he had added them. Can someone explain for the electrically challanged how that would change the hook up? Still do the wire tap connector, etc?

RJ

 

You do not need to add relays for his setup to function properly but in order for the lights to get full voltage and not potentially draw too much current through the headlight switch, he suggested it - his setups did not use relays.

 

Rattles next to the last comment (at 4:38)...

"The ultimate solution is to add relays to the headlights at a location near the headlights. I used Radio Shack automotive relays good for 30 amps, two at each headlight."

Was afraid others were mislead by comments above, about going 2 yrs with no troubles. Did not realize this is WITH relays.

1/5/05 - For the electrically challanged (like myself) found out Relays are not required and do no make this mod any better...just different way to do it!

RJ

 

My mistake .........it has been a couple days since I read that thread........

 

The Hi/Lo fix doesn't use relays, but he suggests it for the reasons CTD Nut stated. You want to get full power to the headlights since the stock wiring harness is marginal at best for getting full power to the lites.

I am contemplating pulling the harness and rewiring my own to get full juice to the lites as well as the Hi/Lo jumper. The relays would power full voltage to the lites direct from the battery, switched by the stock harness. At least thats how I have it in my head.

J-eh

 

Yup, that is my master plan too.........

 

Can you buy replacement bulb sockets or do you have to try to butcher the OEM ones? I would like to just pull the OEM's off and re-wire with my own sockets. Then I could put in some reasonable gauge of wire to the lites (16 - 14). Also the harness would come with me on the next rig if need be.

 

Isn't there a way to get both the hi beams/low beams AND fog lights to stay on all at once?

 

Yes. I had my PIAA Fogs (510's) wired into parking lights. With above mod, all would be on at same time.
Would that work with factory fogs?
RJ

 

Ok dumb question, looked at the manual and the Sports take different headlights? They have 4 headlight system. Never noticed a sport head light before, Would it be worth to swap in those if possible, and also due the combined hi-low setup. I also ways thought the with both hi and lo beams on it would be too much heat for the blubs??

 

A very simple way to make your oem foglights not turn off with the high beams on is to remove foglight relay #2 (this is the highbeam interlock relay - 98 and later trucks) and remove pin #1 with side cutters and re-install........this keeps the relay locked in the normally closed position and prevents the highbeam circuit from triggering it to open.......the rest of the fog light circuit functions normally........I have done the mod on my 98.5 and it works fine.

 

I thought so too but the brite box website says the bulbs work fine with no shortened life expectancy with both filiments on.

 

CTD NUT, is there a way you could get a picture of removing the pin #1 thinga-ma-jiggy? I'd really like to do these mods before I head out for christmas. The place I'm going doesn't belive in streetlights.