I install Rancho 9000 shocks and went back later and install the remote pump. It wasn't as bad of job as I thought it would be.The pump lets you control the ride going down the road. I had a problem with the pump after about two weeks it locked up (I purchased it on E-Bay new system ?) I called Rancho and no questions asked they sent a new pump out in three days with a much later serial number and picked up the old pump all free of charge.I like doing business with these people.So far I am completely satisfied the ride and the towing (10000 Travel Trailer).

 

Yup...it a 5100. Their numbering system is confusing.
BE5-2549 is their yellow/blue 5100 for standard height 4x4 trucks.
For those with 2-3" lifts...or frt end leveling kits... it the BE5-6881-H5 (nickle plated 5100 shock).

RJ

 

OK, I finally ordered shocks(20,000miles later ). I found Bilsteins for $227.81 shipped to me. The will be here today just in time for my trip to Wyoming. I was seconds from ordering Rancho 9000 self adjusting because they offered a 90 day free road test. They were only $195 shipped. But after reading more on here about rancho and bilsteins, I went with bilsteins. I'll let everyone know what the ride was like to WY.
Maybe I'm splittin hairs, rancho vs Bilsteins, However, any shock is probably better than no shock.

 

Half my driving - literally - is on dirt and gravel roads in the Rockies and Appalachians at different times of the year. I've had a set of Ranchos and I've had a set of Bilsteins.

Now I'm on a set of KYB Monomax's and I'm keeping them. A bit hard-riding but very responsive even in the dirt - and most importantly, they don't bust after a few thousand miles of pounding. The Ranchos and Bilsteins did - twice each, after a warranty replacement.

 

You must not have ordered the 5100's??? I think the best price I could find as 85-89 each for the 5100's.. I'm running them on a stock hieght truck with no problem... Just couldn't pull my self to buy a yellow and blue shock...

 

How well do the bilsteins work if you want a plusher ride when empty but still want a heavy duty for towing?

 

I was basically at the same point as you. 350k km on the stock shocks. I thought the Bilsteins were gonna be a stiff shock, but they ride really good, especially for a one ton. One word of caution (you've probably ran into it by now) is have some extra bolts on hand. 14x75mm will do the trick. I either busted or had to cut out the bolts in the front a-arms. Finding bolts on a sunday morning is not fun.

 

I've had my bilstein 5100's front/ heavy duty rear(coil spacers front, stock rear) for a few thousand miles now and I really really like them! I do a lot of freeway driving empty, quite a bit of bumper pull trailers and a fair amount of playing offroad, I'm still impressed with how well these shocks do in all three areas. washboard bumps in sand aren't an issue now, I can drive straight through. the tires don't hop around like crazy offroad so it rides good and gives me way better control since the tires are planted on the ground.
highway empty it rides GREAT.

 

Did I get 5100s or different bilsteins?
What should the part numbers be? Front and rear.
I thought 5100s were for lifted trucks only.

 

WHAT? I have airbags on the back of my 2004 QC Regular Bed 3500 4x4 and I think they make it ride terrible. Granted, I bought the truck with them on and have never taken them off. Is there a way to use them to improve the ride?

 

If installing Rancho shocks, I would put a good paint job on them before they went on the truck. Mine were on the truck for a year and looked like they came off a '71 F150. Rusted to hell.

 

This is a pretty good thread, so I'm hoping I can get some pretty good feedback here which will eliminate the need to create a new one. Cowhand is local to my area, so I'm hoping he'll chime in.

My truck is pretty heavy. As it is, I'm barely touching the factory overloads that come with the camper package. When going over speed bumps, the rear end will bounce like an old Cadillac. I undid the lower mounts on the rear shocks, and there was plenty of resistance when compressing or uncompressing the shock. This makes me wonder if new shocks will work any better. If there isn't enough resistance, then it won't slow down the action of the leaf springs. How much resistance do the OEM style Bilsteins provide?

This brings something else up too. Because my truck is so heavy in the rear, it physically sits lower than the front. I'd like to raise the rear with blocks in order to level it out. What I'd really like to do, is to add a leveling kit in the front (physically raising it), and then add enough block to bring the rear to the height of the front. There's already plenty of block under the factory springs. Would there be a problem adding a lift block too?

Cowhand - My torque converter is slipping bad now. I've got a call in to Dave and will see if he still thinks I can get away with a valve body and torque converter, or if I need to do the entire deal. We sold our house and will be moving into a rental this month. I'd like to do some tranny work real soon. You available to help?

 

Stacking blocks is a bad idea. Your best bet would be to slap some air bags in there, it wouldn't cost much more than $250 or so.

PM me about your trans, I'll need to plan way ahead (ridin' season).

 

The trouble with air bags is I have to remove the overloads. I remember you told me an outfit who could build up some new springs designed for the new curb weight of the truck, but now we're talking about a lot more money than I really want to spend.

 

Buddy of mine mounted airbags to the overloads per Firestone instructions. Then, he cut the overloads off about 1" past the bag mounts.
With bags you shouldn't have to get new springs. Bags are infinitely adjustable spring assist.

Add a quality set of shocks and you're set to go.
BTW, Bilstein or KYB is my only choice.