i ordered my super b special (finally!). should be here early this week. any tips for the install/ setup?

 

I find removing the turbine housing and install that first is easier than installing the whole turbo. No fighting with clearances around the shock tower. You can also try attaching the drain tube to the CHRA prior to installing it into the turbine housing. Its pretty straight forward otherwise.

 

Agree with both the above suggestions.
Depending on your tool inventory, both steps can make the install much easier.

RJ

 

I don't know if I would suggest that unless you've done a few. You could misalign the cartridge on the install and mess up the turbine without the room to put it on dead straight. I mean its done in the field all the time, but I don't know that I would try that on my truck.. Just sayin.. Tate can! ..

I made sure the oil line in/out fit before I installed it just to be sure for clearances etc. My old S300 needed a few dents in the drain tube to clear the compressor housing.

 

just talked to my diesel guy, i guess its a schwitzer s300 custom 62mm. not from bd. any other mods i should be looking at in the near future to support this setup? like valvesprings or cooler boots or anything?

 

Assuming it has a wastegate, you should be in good shape.
At 400 hp, you will be pushing that 300/62 pretty hard. I use a turbo timer to make sure everything cools down, and winds down, before shutting off the engine. Along with the remote start, they work great!



RJ

 

IC boots may get the stretch with the higher boost pressure. I replaced mine for preventative measures, the stockers were swelling to touch the body metal near the rad.

 

I also replaced mine, assuming that the factories would not hold up.
But Member/friend 'BNold' did not. We were both at 600 hp, with twins at 65 psi boost, and he never had a leaking problem with those factory boots??
The clamps would blow off the hard air tubes ocasionally, but never leaked!

I would wait and see on those if I had it to do again..... particularly with the price of heavier boots.

RJ

 

I guess a few bucks in good clamps might be a better investment then? I dunno. But I had a rub in mine from the sheet metal so I wasn't comfortable with that. A little metal work to bend the fender metal back around to make it less of a sharp edge and new boots let me sleep at night.. LOL.

 

Not to mention avoiding the potential heart attack from the noise when the factory boot does pop off!
We all remember that one....no?

RJ

 

That is the most scary thing to hear. Gauge check, boost zero, black smoke, oil pressure Ok, Water temp OK.. Open hood, no steam or spewing oil.. whew, only a hose.

 

how much hp is the stoc i/c good to?

 

It's more a question of "How much Boost"?.
Officially, the spec for the factory CAC (Charge Air Cooler) is to be able to withstand 35 psi. Since factory boost is low 20's...no problem.

The factory cooler will handle more than that....in many cases. But each unit is different. Some have no problem at 40+ psi while other leak badly!

Obviously, an after market unit will handle a lot more and is designed to run cooler air temps.

RJ

 

But aftermarket ones are rather expensive. I refuse to buy one, even though I have three leaking IC's now. One that has no holes seems hard to comeby.

The boots should be fine for a single turbo. I blew one off once at 50 psi, but like Rowland said, it was just a clamp, stuffed it back on and tightened it down. Put another year on it. When I put my twins on, half my boots were still stock. They held 80 psi numerous times. But I wouldn't expect them to. I had an aftermarket boot kit ready to go.

Is this turbo wastegated? Get the turbine size and housing A/R. If its small, you might want to look into something else. A 65mm wheel with a 0.70 A/R is gonna light quick, but choke out. I'd look for a 68 or 71mm turbine myself.

 

If your stock one is leak free it will be just fine. My stocker held 50psi for some time. I upgraded because I tow and was looking for lower egts.