bullboy85

ok no my reader doesnt read abs, ill have to take it to autozone tomarrow after i get it fixed, though im not all that happy with them right now, told me that no autozone town had the driverside and that it was over $100 so went to car quest got it for $75 went to a different on tonight they didnt have the pasenger one but 4 stores in town have them both and the drivers side is $28 and pasenger is $17!!!!

torquefan

I would suspect that your brake lines blew because either they were weathered and cracked, chafed from rubbing on tires that are too big, stretched too tight from the truck being lifted, or some other type of external damage. In over 20 years working in the industry, I've never heard of a brake hose being blown by a hydraulic condition. Inspect the blown hoses closely and you may find some clues.

starkey

Have you tried pulling the ABS fuse? It seems to me that your getting some erroneous reading from the ABS module. I'd pull that fuse and see what she does, but thats just me. My old 92 chevy started acting up like that, pulled the ABS fuse off and it worked fine, just no ABS. Just me $.02

bullboy85

what would pulling the fuse do? trucks stock hight with stock tires, like i said just did the hub install but set the claibers on the control arms, the driverside one didnt stay on there veary well, fell of a few times during install so i was going to just call it that figer out y my abs and break light were still on and be done, but then this one went, and its been pulling that direction, didnt think to pay attention if it still pulled when i drove it home with the parking break. dont think it did. this thing has still got me baffled ill get the other line changed right now and see if its still acting up and if the lights are still on.

starkey

Yeah i'm just sayin that maybe pulling the fuse will help diagnose your problem further. if you pull the fuse and cut off all communication between the ABS sensors, and the truck drives correctly (minus ABS of course) then you've got an ABS problem. In reference to my 92 Chevy, i pulled the fuse and drove it with standard power brakes without any problems, because I didn't want to buy a new ABS control.

On another note, my 01 dodge started pulling to the right and the ABS lights came on, and then my right hub assembly went out. You said you put the EMS Hub Conversion on, so this probably won't apply to your situation, but if your truck came factory with 4 wheel ABS, then maybe its throwing the computer for a loop, making it think the front hubs are locked up... If i recall correctly, 4 wheel ABS didnt' come out till 00 or 01. Just some more info.

bullboy85

it was an option for 99s, but mine doesnt have it

bullboy85

ok new idea, does the back abs just make sure both tires dont lock up or does it look at them individualy?

Crimedog

The sensor is in the diff, so it only measures if they both lock up. RWABS doesn't have side to side control over the brakes. Also, I wouldn't worry too much about the two lines blowing, I had my front ones let go within 2 weeks of eachother. I replaced them and all has been good for 3 years. They were probably just old and cracked, and when you tucked the calipers onto the control arms it probably finished them off.

Just so we have some facts straight: Does the truck pull anymore or is it just a matter of getting the brake and abs lights to turn off?

bullboy85

ya it still pulls and the lights are on, just drove it and took temps of the breaks, the front pasenger was over 100* hotter then the rest. talked to a few places in town they seem to think its 2 different things. he pulling is due to something being hung up in the front breaks and the lights are telling me the sensor in the back needs changed. this sound plosible?

Crimedog

That sounds logical for sure. The hanging up in the front is probably the slides in the calipers that get corroded and sticky over time, which does not allow the caliper to retreat all the way, and also doesn't allow it to apply all the way. I would do rebuilt calipers first, it might be possible that that cures the lights as well (unlikely, but still possible).

bullboy85

ok well i guess the only thing left to do is take them apart agen try really lubing all the slides up really well then put them back together if that doesnt work rebuild calipers? or just go stright to rebuilding them?

IntakeRacing

just get a hardware kit and put new sliders in. cheap. and as for the sensor swap her out. its at hte top of the diff.
check your front pads for weird wear patterns as well. you might need a new caliper for the pull issue if one of your pistons has siezed up. (FRONT ONLY)

torquefan

Don't just lube them up. You need to remove all the rust, right down to bare shiny metal first. This includes removing the rubber slide bushings, and removing the rust from their bores (around the outside of the rubber bushings). This is a critical area regarding brake problems. As soon as that rust warms up, it expands ten times as much as the metal does. It needs to be gone.

bullboy85

ok well new calibers are in and the pull is gone, it too both new ones to fix it. now just got the sensor im hopeing this will fix everything. gave up and took it to a shop thismorning they tryed to pull the abs codes but couldnt then all the lights on my dash came on so they said its electrical and didnt want to touch it, call the electrical shop they sudjested and he wouldnt toch it cuz it had to do with the breaks. got fed up and did the front myself now doing the sensor.

bullboy85

ok no pulling anymore but lights are still on after i replaced the sensor.