Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

B1 turbo?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 30, 2004 | 12:52 AM
  #2  
BigBlue's Avatar
Banned
 
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 0
Likes: 0
Yup and yup.
Reply
Old Jun 30, 2004 | 12:34 PM
  #5  
mrsmith's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: ohio
Originally posted by 12valvesmoker
Sorry few more questions...How much will this turbo run me? Where is the best place to buy it? And how big is the exhaust housing? How much horsepower is this turbo good for?
I'd go with a PDR 40 or a ADKINS 55 before a B1.You'd save a lot of money.I bought a B1-2 expecting huge power gains.It made all sorts of boost(65-70)but no horsepower,only 420 on my 12v.I sold it and went back to my stock hx35 with a 18 housing.On the street the truck doesn't feel any different with the 35 then it did with the B1.
Just my 2 cents.
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2004 | 01:30 AM
  #7  
dsljunkie's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 457
Likes: 0
Dont be too detered because of one negative account of a B1. Ive got one that makes good boost and GREAT USEABLE power. Peak egts are 1300-1325* pullin a 30k trailer and talk about a tough turbo. Without starting a tranny war Id like to say that a B1 would be the only single charger that I would put on any truck of mine, and that there are many more posotive accounts on B1's than negatives.
nuf' said
Scott
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2004 | 02:21 AM
  #8  
BigBlue's Avatar
Banned
 
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 0
Likes: 0
Contact Merrick at laredoperformancediesel.com or Rod at wildcatdiesel.com about ordering the B1. It'll run ya about $1500. A full B1 will easily support 500-550 hp. Mrsmith and one or two other people are the only complaints I've ever heard of when it comes to these turbos. They are extremely tough, make lots of boost, can handle nitrous and propane, and can support a lot of power.
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2004 | 09:01 AM
  #9  
mrsmith's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: ohio
Originally posted by dsljunkie
Dont be too detered because of one negative account of a B1. Ive got one that makes good boost and GREAT USEABLE power. Peak egts are 1300-1325* pullin a 30k trailer and talk about a tough turbo. Without starting a tranny war Id like to say that a B1 would be the only single charger that I would put on any truck of mine, and that there are many more posotive accounts on B1's than negatives.
nuf' said
Scott
I wouldn't call my account negative,just my experience with the B1.And I'm not convinced there was something wrong with the one I had.I'll agree there a tough turbo,just a little pricey for the results I got.mine was 1780.00 from Yardley plus I had to build a new downpipe.When I bought my B1-2 you couldn't buy an already made downpipe I see there advertised for around 150.00 now so most people would have to figure that into the price to.
I'd to see some sigs of 12V trucks making 500-550hp on #2 only with a B1-2.
Maybe I could figure out what I was doing wrong on mine.
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2004 | 10:42 AM
  #10  
Push Rod's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 0
From: Drive till ya hit a Polar Bear, then go back 50 miles
Originally posted by mrsmith
I'd to see some sigs of 12V trucks making 500-550hp on #2 only with a B1-2.
Maybe I could figure out what I was doing wrong on mine.
We've got a fair number of 500HP+ 12v trucks using B1's, so its a little strange that it didn't help you. Generally speaking, if you add a larger turbo and you don't see power gains its because of the following reasons:

1) You don't have enough fuel for the larger charger. The only way that you'll see a power increase with a larger charger is if the smaller charger wasn't giving you enough air. With a 12 valve, thats generally due to not re-tuning the pump after making a change. Any change on a 12 valve requires that the plate, timing, and AFC be re-adjusted to maximize output.

2) Some kind of engine damage that won't allow for more power.

3) Leaking boots, or a damaged intercooler. The intercooler damage is pretty common, and will often result in 25-50 HP less than what you should be seeing.

4) Overboosting. Driving a turbo out of its efficiency range is hell on power. The B1s don't do _anything_ past 48 - 50 PSI. At the 65-70 PSI you were building, you were pumping nothing but superheated air. You either needed a full B1 to loosen up the turbine side, or an external waste to bring the charger speed down.

Rod
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2004 | 10:49 AM
  #11  
dsljunkie's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 457
Likes: 0
I can make pretty darn close to those numbers on #2 only . I will say that the turbo is pretty pricey, but it was definately worth it. And a downpipe is simple to make with a couple 45's and a mig .
Maybe the B1-2 is too much turbo for your amount of fuel and the auto tranny . It would be worth the effort to try to get the turbo dialed in .
Scott
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2004 | 12:22 PM
  #12  
mrsmith's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: ohio
Originally posted by Push Rod
We've got a fair number of 500HP+ 12v trucks using B1's, so its a little strange that it didn't help you. Generally speaking, if you add a larger turbo and you don't see power gains its because of the following reasons:

1) You don't have enough fuel for the larger charger. The only way that you'll see a power increase with a larger charger is if the smaller charger wasn't giving you enough air. With a 12 valve, thats generally due to not re-tuning the pump after making a change. Any change on a 12 valve requires that the plate, timing, and AFC be re-adjusted to maximize output.

2) Some kind of engine damage that won't allow for more power.

3) Leaking boots, or a damaged intercooler. The intercooler damage is pretty common, and will often result in 25-50 HP less than what you should be seeing.

4) Overboosting. Driving a turbo out of its efficiency range is hell on power. The B1s don't do _anything_ past 48 - 50 PSI. At the 65-70 PSI you were building, you were pumping nothing but superheated air. You either needed a full B1 to loosen up the turbine side, or an external waste to bring the charger speed down.

Rod
thanks for the help,I really beat me head against the wall trying to find the low hp reason
Here's what I was running when I dyno'd the truck.
370 injectors,181 DVs,timing at 20.0,4000 gsk O plate not quite all the way ahead,light AFC spring,star wheel all the way ahead.I checked for boost leaks after the dyno run and didn't find any.
first pull the truck made 410 with the wastegate set at 40 psi in O.D. and the converter locked up.
second pull 420 with wastgate closed,60 lb boost gage pegged.
I thought for what I had done to the truck 450-500 would of been attainable.
Anyways money got tight and I sold the B1,now I'm back to the 35/18.
If you see anything odd with the combo I had please let me know,thanks.
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2004 | 02:28 PM
  #13  
Cowhand's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,515
Likes: 0
From: The 951-Flatbill center of the universe
Originally posted by mrsmith
Here's what I was running when I dyno'd the truck.
timing at 20.0,4000 gsk O plate not quite all the way ahead,
Past the point of diminishing returns? Sounds to me like too much timing, too far forward on the plate. I seem to remember some testing that one of the members (Jim Fulmer?Don M?) did regarding plate position and timing. Too much timing and too much plate actually cost HP.....

I'm sure Jim, Don or Rod will chime in here and plumb me up......
Reply



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:08 AM.