ARP head studs revisted
07-14-2004, 05:47 PM
#16
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07-14-2004, 06:23 PM
#17
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Who knows on the gasket problem.
I did read about injector spray patterns and they are chasing their tails. The JWI of the injector with a thicker gasket on the 24 valve is a moot point as long as they are not changing the stock spraying angle. All of our EDM injectors take into account the fact that many guys will change to a thicker gasket. There is plenty of fudge factor.
The only thing that gets me is the 370 marine injector that many sell and then recommend a 20 thou over gasket to boot. That throws the JWI off enough for concern, I believe anyway.
Don~
I did read about injector spray patterns and they are chasing their tails. The JWI of the injector with a thicker gasket on the 24 valve is a moot point as long as they are not changing the stock spraying angle. All of our EDM injectors take into account the fact that many guys will change to a thicker gasket. There is plenty of fudge factor.
The only thing that gets me is the 370 marine injector that many sell and then recommend a 20 thou over gasket to boot. That throws the JWI off enough for concern, I believe anyway.
Don~
07-15-2004, 01:07 AM
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JWI? Just Walked In?
It's my personal feeling that most HG failures are from improper prep. So what if the truck has O-rings? If it isn't machined perfectly flat, can you expect it to seal? What if the head is decked but the locating dowel holes aren't drilled deeper? The dowels will cause the head to sit up, and you'll blow the gasket no matter how much torque you have on those monster studs!
BTW-- does a 5.9 have head locating dowels? I've never had mine off (nor do I plan to until I port the thing).
The other thing that, imho, would help is cryo tempering. A long casting like the exhaust manifold and the cylinder head warps easily from uneven heating. The cryo tempering eliminates that potential warpage.
I know of cases were a whole engine was removed from a vehicle, cryoed, then reinstalled-- all without disassembling it in any way.
The amazing thing was that the engine gained 20hp! Who knows why-- valve train harmonics, piston stability, valve sealing. The cryo temper only helps, it can't hurt.
You CANNOT skimp on head prep. It needs to be up to temp (200+) when being decked. I'll stop here, as I'd end up repeating my previous rant in the "good news, bad news" thread Don started.
Justin
It's my personal feeling that most HG failures are from improper prep. So what if the truck has O-rings? If it isn't machined perfectly flat, can you expect it to seal? What if the head is decked but the locating dowel holes aren't drilled deeper? The dowels will cause the head to sit up, and you'll blow the gasket no matter how much torque you have on those monster studs!
BTW-- does a 5.9 have head locating dowels? I've never had mine off (nor do I plan to until I port the thing).
The other thing that, imho, would help is cryo tempering. A long casting like the exhaust manifold and the cylinder head warps easily from uneven heating. The cryo tempering eliminates that potential warpage.
I know of cases were a whole engine was removed from a vehicle, cryoed, then reinstalled-- all without disassembling it in any way.
The amazing thing was that the engine gained 20hp! Who knows why-- valve train harmonics, piston stability, valve sealing. The cryo temper only helps, it can't hurt.
You CANNOT skimp on head prep. It needs to be up to temp (200+) when being decked. I'll stop here, as I'd end up repeating my previous rant in the "good news, bad news" thread Don started.
Justin
07-15-2004, 06:55 PM
#19
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Originally posted by HOHN
BTW-- does a 5.9 have head locating dowels? I've never had mine off (nor do I plan to until I port the thing).
BTW-- does a 5.9 have head locating dowels? I've never had mine off (nor do I plan to until I port the thing).
05-11-2006, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBlue
Other than the distortion that would come from the welding, what could possibly go wrong. 
fine print: please add $9,999.00 for shipping and handling and please allow 1 - never for delivery. Payment is required in full and upon ordering of goods. No refund on any order No Way No How No Where. You bought you don't got it. This add is to merely take your money in exchange for a non existant product
05-11-2006, 07:51 PM
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Tapping holes
If your gasket wasen't blown and you wanted to install ARP studs would it be ok to install them without tappin out the holes. I know it's better to tap them out and install the stud all the way and back off a 1/2 turn. But would it be worth it and not pull the head.??? Just curious
05-11-2006, 11:24 PM
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whats wrong with injecting straight water and nitrous? you would get a boost from the nitrous and water to cool the EGTs, or does the nitrous help EGTs also?
05-12-2006, 07:37 AM
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Nitrous helps EGTs
The only problem I can see with injecting straight water AND nitrous is icing from the cold nitrous.
If you inject the water farther upstream (say intercooler outlet) and the nitrous up close (intake hat), then I think you'd be fine.
jh
The only problem I can see with injecting straight water AND nitrous is icing from the cold nitrous.
If you inject the water farther upstream (say intercooler outlet) and the nitrous up close (intake hat), then I think you'd be fine.
jh
05-12-2006, 08:08 AM
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on the head studs thing...
im in the 450/850 range now, pushing a wastegated 45psi on stock HG and bolts. if i decide to get the ARP's, how far can i push it then with the studs and no o-rings?
my plan is to add a smarty, and get a drag comp upgrade. and keeping my boost at 45psi. so ill be just under the 500/1000 mark and thats where my bombing stops on this truck
will the stock headgasket with studs support 500/1000 with 45psi boost?
im in the 450/850 range now, pushing a wastegated 45psi on stock HG and bolts. if i decide to get the ARP's, how far can i push it then with the studs and no o-rings?
my plan is to add a smarty, and get a drag comp upgrade. and keeping my boost at 45psi. so ill be just under the 500/1000 mark and thats where my bombing stops on this truck
will the stock headgasket with studs support 500/1000 with 45psi boost?
05-12-2006, 09:15 AM
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I would think so...I'm at 400/880 with twins @ 62psi on stock head gasket and bolts
But I've been waaaaayyyyyy lucky I would think that with that B1, and 45psi, you'll be fine with just studs
I wouldn't let the boost go above that though...drive pressure can kill a HG in a hurry I think that's the only thing saving mine
Still liking the B1?
Chris
But I've been waaaaayyyyyy lucky
I would think that with that B1, and 45psi, you'll be fine with just studs I wouldn't let the boost go above that though...drive pressure can kill a HG in a hurry I think that's the only thing saving mineStill liking the B1?
Chris
05-12-2006, 11:16 AM
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last night i saw the first issue with it...
i was ruising home late about 45mph going up a fairly long hill, i was in 6th gear and too lazy to shift so i slowly rolled into the throttle...at about 25psi boost it started fluttering and wouldnt go any higher...downshifted to 5th and she went right up. i assume this is what is known as surging?
basically i was in a gear too high and trying to build boost going up the hill...other than that i love it...the bottom end i have now is insane compared to boring and slow launches i used to have.
i was ruising home late about 45mph going up a fairly long hill, i was in 6th gear and too lazy to shift so i slowly rolled into the throttle...at about 25psi boost it started fluttering and wouldnt go any higher...downshifted to 5th and she went right up. i assume this is what is known as surging?
basically i was in a gear too high and trying to build boost going up the hill...other than that i love it...the bottom end i have now is insane compared to boring and slow launches i used to have.