Thanks for an explanation. Thats similar to what I deciphered, just your explanation is more clear. Thanks!

 

yep, that tap is short. Looks like it would be shorter than the head is tall. Not sure how well it'll come out.......?..........Anyone, .......Bueller.........?

 

I guess no one has used the used the bottoming tap before Matt.

 

You'll probly need a tap about 8" long if you plan to bottom tap with the head on.

 

Hmmm, ARP's tap is about 3-3.5" long.

 

Sounds like that tap is for use with the head off of the block. I've used studs in different applications where I didn't clean threads with a tap. No problems. It's not by the book, but I don't think its absolutely neccesary. Unless you want to remove the head.

 

We got the studs in. Didn't use the tap, couldn't see a way to get it out. I'll probably see if I can return it to ARP. Had to grind the front 2 and the back 2 studs down a 1/4 to 3/8 to get the valve cover to seal. We were careful so we would end up with full thread contact on the nuts. Went for a ride and slowly got it warm, then tried to get it pretty hot coming back. Re-torqued again while hot.........fixed intercooler boot from twins install ........had to do that a couple more times, then got the plumbing straight and a BIG ! Anyway, looks like all is well with studs and twins install. Hit 47-50 on the boost gauge on the ride home after the truck was good and warm again. Now I have very little smoke......looks like I need more fuel !

 

By the way, thanks to McMopar and Mike D with the help on the install! Also, thanks to Timinva for some pre and mid-stream consulting! Also, thanks to those with input on this thread. Thanks guys!

 

I would re-torque again... a hot retorque is not an accurate torque spec!

 

I questioned that too, but the info Matt was supplied said to do the re-torque hot.

 

I got the hot retorque from 2 sources that are in the diesel business. Only thing that I can think of that I could of misunderstood is that I was to get it hot,.....then let it cool....., then re-torque. But the way I understood both conversations is to torque it when it is hot.

 

I was wondering about that myself, but assumed everyone was clear. I had always thought you got the truck hot then let it cool to at least 140 before doing the retorque.

 

Standard procedure is to run engine to operating temp then wait to cooldown to re-torque studs.
The idea behind this is that metal expands when hot, so in theory, your studs may have loosened some from this first expansion. Wait to cool, then torque down again.
Tightening them while hot doesn't make sense, to me anyway...

 

Matt, let it cool completely, after getting it up to operating temps(as in overnight)Then retorque it. Also while you are in there reset your valves, you will find the studs will throw off the settings quite a bit. Tim

 

I got one more confirmation that came from a big diesel outfit that said torque them hot.....said get the gloves out if you need too......of course I had too, but I guess I'm a candy a$$ anyway

Thanks Tim. I was planning to do one more torque after a week or so, just didn't know whether to do it hot or cold. I wondering about the valves and if they would change. It's a shame, I just adjusted them a month or so ago.



Anyone got any suggestions on good quality intercooler boots that will hold much better than stock? Don't want to spend an arm and a leg. BD wanted $250 for theirs. I think I saw a banner ad here on DTR for some other, but I want to make sure they are good quality.....you know.....sometimes you get what you pay for, but still, if there is a less expensive alternative or a better alternative, I'm all ears.

Thanks, Matt