Stamey

I'm looking hard at the Lock Right locker for my now open rear. It is cheaper than the Detroit Locker and can be used with the existing carrier, both selling point for me. They also say that you won't shear off an axle with this locker (I've seen Detroit Lockers shear axles on at least 2 occasions). It is hard to find someone that can set up a rear correctly, so if I can install this without having to change the ring/pinion settings it will be a big plus. I will not install an LS unit as I feel like they can be high maintenance in some cases, at least from what I read on the Internet, and besides, that would be the equivalent of re-setting up the rear.<br>I was wondering if anyone here is using this locker and what they have to say about it.<br><br>From what I have seen this locker appears to be a good product. <br><br>Here are some links I have found on it.<br>http://www.powertrax.com/locker.htm<br>http://www.4x4wire.com/dodge/reviews/7080lockright/<br>http://www.4x44u.com/pub/k2/am4x44u/...arts/lckrt.htm<br>http://www.kiva.net/~mars/powert.html<br><br>Thanks,<br>Chris

quantrill88

i presently have one in the front of my wrangler and have run one in the past in the rear of the jeep as well. u said u didn't want to install a limited slip but that's pretty much what a lockright is. they dont transmit power to both wheels 100% of the time. only a detroit, arb, full spool, or welded spider gears will do that.<br><br>not sayin that the lockright isnt a good product, i love mine up front in the jeep, but i gotta wonder what it would happen to the clutches with all that torque in our trucks (especially urs, lol)?<br><br>ive never heard of a full detroit locker breakn an axle but weirder things have happened.<br><br>guess it really depends on ur budget and the application. good luck.<br><br>as to shops to set one up, if ud be willing to come up to No. Va. i personaly know of one in woodbridge right off 95 that has alot of experience with this.<br><br>sorry to ramble on, just one of the only times theres a topic that i actually know a decent amount about

Stamey

From what I have read, this is just like a Detroit Locker in that it locks the wheels when it counts, with no &quot;friction&quot; clutches, and has a 2 year, no questions asked, warranty.
I have found articles about the installation but none about the longevity. I have found other lockers of this type that recommend no larger a tire than 31&quot; be used with it, and in one instance where 33&quot; were used, in a Jeep, that locker was broken. I do not remember the brand of that locker though. It was not a Lock Right.
I have not seen any recommendations about this one placing any limits on what it can handle.

The Detroit lockers I have seen breaking axles were due to the Detroit's habit of locking in a corner, and the tires being to big to give you that chirp, chirp, chirp, breaking traction on one wheel as you turn the corner. I have seen it happen on a Dana 70 and a Ford 9&quot; rear. Both times they were being driven by a woman, turning a corner, and both times the driver did not know she had busted anything, merely hearing a pop, but the vehicle did not stop, so she kept driving. (I suppose this could happen to a guy too, if he didn't know about the locker)

As I understand it, this locker is more forgiving in that it WILL unlock in a corner even if power is being applied, it's just that the slower turning wheel will get all of the power, rather than the faster turning wheel, causing you to accelerate when turning a corner.


Thanks,
Chris

KATOOM

The question you need to ask your self is what am I going to do with the truck? <br><br>The Lock Right is not a strong locker. Thats why it has limitations on tire size. So I would have to say that would be my last choice just for strenght and reliabilty. <br><br>Detroit Lockers are great for what they are intended and that isnt daily driving. They are harsh on tires and drive train plus dangerous in the wet slippery weather. Its a BIG no no to install one in the front axle unless your a rock crawler or mud racer. Even at that you will most likely break a front axle. They were intended for the weekend drag racer that drove his car on the street since spools are illegal off the track.<br><br>I dont see a problem with a GOOD limited slip. They are always down played. I have had great luck with them. Less chance of axle failure and less drive train stress. They are nice because they respond to applied torque which allows easy turning. Some aftermarket LS's can have a high break away and give some chirping of the tires. But no matter they wont give you that needed traction if you have a tire off the ground which makes them very unpopular with off roaders. And you can burn one up real fast if not carefull. Ever see a Mustang or Camero driving down the road with that tiny spare on one side of the rear? That LS is now waisted! But how many consumers really care or know about the care of their LS? They dont require a lot of maintenance but some care if you want them to work well.<br><br>Then you have the ARB which is an open diff untill you give it air then you have a spool. Nice but you need a tiny compressor under the hood giving a constant supply of air for it to work. Some guys dont like them cause they have a air hose running from truck to diff to get ripped off but I cant see that being a real problem since you have to have brake lines too! Now they have a new design that doesnt require air but electricity. Now you dont need the compresor. These seem to be the best of both worlds.<br><br>Well since the only way you are going to keep you original carrier is to install a Lock Right it seem thats your only choice, but if you are willing to take it out then your options are pretty open. (no pun) I would personaly get the electric ARB type if I had the money.

dma251

I recently read an article about the Loc-Rite which stated that the history of weakness in the Loc-Rite was generally from it being installed in differentials that carried the load of the axles on the carrier housing inside the differential. As the Dana 70 is a full-floating design, the inner bearings will support the load of the axle and eliminate the deflection that is claimed to be the cause of Loc-Rite failures. How true this is I don't know. <br> One thing I do know is that limited slip diffs contain clutches, and clutches contain friction material (abrasive) and this material is constantly being shedded into the oil. This oil lubricates the gears and axle bearings. Because axles don't have filters, no matter how often you change that fluid, it will contain abrasives.... food for thought....<br><br>Get the Loc-Rite. It'll be just fine...<br>

NC_Mog

I had a friend with a lock rite in a '74 3/4 4x4. He never had a problem with it.<br><br>Personally, I prefer a LS for my street truck. It is mild mannered enough that there are virtually no handling issues, but gives you that extra traction in bad weather and on boat ramps. I've seen Detroits breaks axles. Usually when one rear tire is hanging in the air and all torque is routed to the one with traction.<br><br>I would be concerned about running a locker of any type, including a lock rite, with a rig that I tow with. You don't want any handling funkiness when you have a substantial load behind you.<br><br>My $0.02

Stamey

My thing about this locker is it is supposed to be less harsh on the drive train than the Detroit, if you can believe the claims of its advertising. I'm not going with the Detroit because this is a street truck and I need to be able to apply power when turning. I plan to be drag racing and possibly pullling with the truck. ;D No off-roading/rock climbing is planned for it at this time.<br>I doubt I will touch the front diff because of the inherent drivability problems introduced by having a locker or other in the front.<br><br>NC_Mog<br>Can you tell me any more about your friend's experiences with the Lock Right?<br><br>Thanks,<br>Chris

erics76

The reason that the lock-rights are considered weak is because they go in the stock carrier. Detriot lockers and such replace the factory part with a much stronger part. I seriously doubt that you could break the stock carrier in a dana 70 or 80. It's not a true 100% locker, so it wouldn't put as much stress as a detriot or arb air locker anway.

KATOOM

Why dont you just try it? If it breaks then go with something stronger. I still think the ARB type (electric or air) is the best solution to any of your problems. Turn it on while pulling or draging and turn it off to go home. Perfect! And no LS oil problems. What more could you ask for? Unless you like the chirping, grabbing, and erratic tire wear.

ATEAV8GN

Stamey,<br><br>I've got a lock-rite in my GN (8.5&quot; GM rear), 3 years and about 200 passes down the dragstrip (15psi boost launches off the transbrake) and I've never had a lick of trouble. Easy install, at least for the Buick, full floating rear might be a little more PITA. <br><br>Has anyone ever heard of zytanium? That is what I think they called the material its made out of... <br><br> Anyways, if you don't mind the click-click around corners (any self respecting CTD owner with a straight pipe wouldn't notice it) then I think you'll like it. Just don't get on the go pedal too fast when exiting a corner and you won't whip it around (been there, done that in the Buick a few times... )<br><br>Just my $00002,<br><br>

Stamey

ATEAV8GN,<br>Thanks for the info. That's what I have been trying to get here, real-world experiences with this locker. I have read lots about it but only ownership can tell you about the quirks, if there are any.<br>I don't care about the noise. If I could hear it over this &quot;first gen&quot; 24v, I certainly couldn't hear it over my mufflerectomy , even if I did care about the noise.<br>I'm just trying not to break axles in corners, like the Detroit would do.<br>I know I need it because this afternoon I was trying out my Emjay and loaded to a little less than 15 psi boost, with the windows rolled up. I didn't even know I was smoking the tire (1), until I noticed smoke in the mirror. <br><br>Thanks,<br>Chris

nevrenufhp

I had one in a Jeep Cherokee with 31's and it broke after 2 weeks. The stemming factor...I was going up a motorcycle only trail/hill and had one wheel stuffed(wedged) in the rear fender. Still made it home, had to put in a whole new rear end but went with a Ford 9&quot; and Detroit Softlocker. That's the best for the street(if you want a Detroit). The softlocker has a softer spring so it goes around corners very nice. It's the same great locker that also works well on the street. Keep in mind the Detroit Locker is available in big rig axles. We have one at work in an old IH.

NC_Mog

<br><br>He ran 35s, a 360, and did all street driving. With the windows down and turning in a parking lot, you'd hear the clicking. Otherwise you pretty much drove it like you would anything else. When borrowing it, I don't recall doing anything special when driving. The long wheelbase, wide stance, and large(ish) tires probably mitigated any wierd handling that you'd otherwise see in something like a Jeep.

ridofpwrstroke

I had a lock rite in a ford 9inch. I was running 35's. The locker does make clicking noise which wasnt annoying. I had it in for about 1 year and I busted the four pins inside that hold the springs. Lock rite sent another set. Lasted 6 months and busted the pins again. Lockrite sent another set. The pins busted again and lockrite said it was out of their 2 year warranty. (I was ticked and wanted something different so I didnt fight the issue). Eventually I went with something different. I wouldnt recommend them. I bought the gearless locker from detroit and that is the cats meow. I have had it now for 3 years with no probs. It doesnt ratchet like the lockrite and it locks up fully. The lock rite locks up 100%. At least it did for me with one wheel up in the air and one on traction. The gearless locker locks up 100% as well. I am in the same situation with my truck now. I want a locker in the rear but when I put the fifth wheel on it will bind and cause damage to something, either the axle shafts or locker itself. If I never towed I would get the detroit. If your going to spend 350 bucks, go all out and get something that will never fail. They are bulletproof. Now sure someone may have broke one that you know of, but (I) have never heard of one breaking. If you buy the lockrite it may last forever or it may fail soon. Usually when they fail they take other parts out in the axle. <br>Finally, to do the job right(in my opinion) would be the detroit electrac. It is new to the market and I dont think it is available for my dana 80, or the 70 for that matter yet. This is a limited slip until you push a button and locks up fully. This is pretty sweet. If you cant wait then the ARB lockers are pretty sweet too. They are time tested and give you the option of turning off while on slippy streets, snow, or just everyday driving to save your tires. If they are too expensive, look at the gearless lockers. I have had no problems with mine yet.

kray67

I've used them in my Jeep for hard core rock crawling and they hold up pretty well. Basically a Lock-Right or the Detroit EZ-Locker is just a smaller version of the full Detroit locker. I did break 3 of them, but the tire size was over what they recommended and it was all done rock crawling, so I don't think that is a sign inferior product. I have a friend that has them front and rear and never broken either one.<br><br>I notice that you have an automatic, one think that the Lock-Rights do with a manual is they cause a little shimmy when shifting gears because they unlock and lock back when you get off the throttle.<br><br>As far as the full Detroit breaking axles, I have broken both a full Detroit and axles, so I think it all depends on what situation you are in.