i wouldnt use an aeromotive pump, im big into the SVO world and this is the other reason i want to convert to a p7100 pump the ability to run svo on the truck then. Also everyone who has used the aeromotive pumps in the svo world had them die on them in less then a year and in most cases they died after long trips of 4+ hours.....

 

Can you explain why/what has to be changed on the gear case/
Also what happens to all the vp44 elecronics, What stays,
what goes,

I am interested in the conversion, but what to throughly understand what is required,

Would an older style rotary pump bolt up without many changes?

 

I'm trying to figure out if you actually get a more driveable truck or a truck that runs for ever but not very strong at the bottom end of the rpm's to a top end rpm killer. I've heard to many hate and luv stories about this one, on 24v P pump conversions. What kinda of injectors you running now? You get your injectors reset to run at a different pop-off pressure yet? How important is this? I'm such a newbie here???

 

Pump swaps is getting done around here almost daily!

*rotary to 24 valve! whit this you dont need to bend the lines! but I aint sure about bolt up, It has been done, but im not sure if its a bolt one, I have even seen a rotary on a 24 valve!
*ppump to 24valve! ok they machine a big round o about two inch the shoulder!, and put it into the 24v timing gear, in that "o" are the 4 bolts that hold the pump! it aint so complicated, but a precise job! I wish Id have gotten the camera to take a pic of the timin gear.

you guys can as well use a 12valve timing gear case, the only thin you need to do is make a bracket for the sensor, that the 24v has on there.
..

As electronics, only the pump is gone, keep computers! But the check engine light is on!

 

rotary to 24v...wow didnt know about that... also has anyone figured out how to make the check engine light go away by possably looping the signal or somewhat??? I know in most states if the check engine light is on then they wont inspect the vehicle... thankfully im from florida so i carry florida tag but live in north carolina...but just for up knowledge base

 

So how much more drivable is your truck now? Hows the intial spool-up of the P-pump vs. the VP? What P-pump you running and what kind of mods you running? I was told that my mach 6's would flow to much fuel for a 913 pump thats has 650cc plungers, and has been tricked out. I was told to run a set of jammer 2's. It just sounds odd.

 

yep I saw a 3rd generation, which came with a gas, they installed a 2001 model cummins 24v with a rotary pump!

I wanna know too about the check engine light!! I have read somewhere to let the VP pluged in to the connectors, let it hang somewhere! Didnt like that idea a whole lot!

Mike Holeman You asked what pump it is? In reality I dont know! just bought it like that, not knowing the ratings! And currently the pump has stock power! running the stock 24valve injectors! No problem at all!

 

___________________

Hey Mike
P pump = FUEL NOW
I can tell you the P pump spools up way faster than any of my 24v combos (but I never got into cam swaps) that said there are a few possible down sides to a mechanical pump. One is if you dont like to tinker, set-up requires some playing. The other thing is you dont have any real incab adjustability like with the 24v so its all business at all times other than your Valet(sp?)
To flow those Mach 6s you may need more cam than the 913 has and might need to step up to a Stupid pump from PDR I think those can run up to 1000hp. I would suggest you start with one of those for the hp your looking at attaining. I do know you can run larger than a DD II with a stock 913 pump so I think someone was trying to lead you down the path...........
Sorry to hear about you hurting 24v are you 100% sure its bottom end and not valve train? IMHO you can get good money for allot of your parts on the 24v so I would just build up the 12v and land it in compleate. What did PDR say or have you talked to them yet?

 

Well, I have this clicking noise, that changes into a sounds like a fan with a piece of tin on it at above 20psi. I have it narrowed down to a exhaust leak (on the manifold or the base of the HX40) or something inside the motor. I have the turbos off, there is some indications of a leak at the base of the HX40. I almost have the ATS off and gonna clean her up good. I have a good lead on a 12v 913 pump 215 motor. PDR is gonna tweak it with a plate, valves, plunger and put in a 4k spring. I was told that it would be in the 350-400rwhp, which is a sweet get me by motor. After doing that I don't know what I'm gonna do. I might just build the 24v motor and sell it. Just looking around I found a stock 02 24v, with no injection pump, no turbo for $6.2K cdn. That some good coin for a 120000km motor, imagine how much you could get for a complete fresh 670rwhp motor and has twins on it. I think that I would be money ahead by doing this and might even have a better running rig. Right now this is just beer talk.

 

Funny how a exhaust leak on these things can sound so bad.
When my 24v was under warrenty it started making a bad ticking noise simmilar to what you describe, to me it sounded like a broken rocker/pushrod on one of my BB chevys so I went to the dealer 3 times and they could find no problems? I was so angry as I was convince something in the motor was hurt (it sounded so bad ) Finnaly they set up a apointment for me to take the truck to Valley Fuel in Abby to have them look at it. When I got there the tech hopped in and we went for a drive, well we had only pulled out of their parking lot and he said ok lets go back. I thought he forgot something but when we got back he opened the hood and went striaght at the #6 exhaust man bolts and bingo all was better I felt like a idiot as I was convinced the engine had a hard part that was hurt. Hopefully thats what you were hearing also. As for the motor you speak of that pump from PDR and a set of Lennys 4s or 5s and your twins should have you close to the same tq (less hp) that your 24vs at.

 

Well I'm hoping its only a exhaust leak. Its sure better than melted piston or spun rod. I'm a little nervous of put in a 12v as I probably would not be able to sell the truck after that. I went in to buy some parts from cummins here in Calgary. I talked to one of the mechanics there, do told me it was a bad idea and it would never work. Those guys are so not into trying anything out what cummins hasn't done.

 

Cumminz4X4 that timing case mount for the tach pickup you came up with, do you have to do anything other than just tap, bolt it in and hook up the wire? did you do this on your truck? I'm still thinking of this conversion for my truck, but there are some things I still don't know yet.

to clear so things up?????

-you have to remove the cam to pull of the timing case cover.
-to put on the mech fuel lift pump, just remove the bracket for the electric one and install the mech one.
-the p-pump support brackets from the 12valve bolt up to the 24valve.

are these right?
also, how do you hook up the oil supply for the p-pump?

sorry for all the questions, thanks.

 

to put a mech lift pump in, you need another cam, the one thats ready for it! (like the 12vavles)

-aint there an oil supply to the ?vacum or power steering pump. not sure... anyways the 12valves have there a T connection, guess just put a t between the line, and get the oil up to the pump,,, i might be wrong,,, i dont know so much about the 24v's.

cummnz4x4powr can tell ya more about it!

 

i was also wandering about the mechanical pump idea because i want to run SVO in the truck afterwards and im trying to stay away from electric pumps.. there expensive and not worth it when playing with heated oil....

 

Don makes a cam for the swap that has the lobe to drive the mech lift pump.