???? about 370 injectors
???? about 370 injectors
Is there any reason not to go to bigger injectors besides more heat and smoke, I know I need bigger DV's but can I add DV's and injectors and adjust my fuel plate to keep egt's in check or will I need a different turbo. will it run basicly the same but with more power on the top??? Thanks in advance Matt
boughtadodge:
I have the 370's, and I like them. the disadvantage is that there is a rough spot between 1100 and about 1300 RPM. I shift gears if the spot is too troublesome, for example, with the TC locked and running slow.
I would go 370 again, whever. I like them.
george
I have the 370's, and I like them. the disadvantage is that there is a rough spot between 1100 and about 1300 RPM. I shift gears if the spot is too troublesome, for example, with the TC locked and running slow.
I would go 370 again, whever. I like them.
george
my timing was set around 17.5-18 and I reset it to 15 I need more power on take of with the tighter converter and 8000 ft in elevation and I called piers and he said to set it there What would I benifit going to 19* wouldn't that be hard on the head gasket How much would I gain power wise? Matt
I have messed with a few trucks here ( Texas ) and we tried a whole bunch of settings on the smaller pumps for best drivability/power. I finally settled on the 19 degrees.
Example was a 94 truck ( 5 speed ) Running 370's and an HX40. Timing was around 15-16 degree mark several times and the diesel only HP was Dyojetted at 430-440 range. Stumble and high rpm pop was still there.
We cranked in more timing ( 19 degrees ) and the stumble and high rpm pop was gone. HP climbed to 476. Same Dynojet.
We tried everything from 13-22 degrees. 19 was the best compromise. Auto tranny and high altitide may differ.
BTW, the DV's were and still are the stock babies that came in the pump.
Don~
Example was a 94 truck ( 5 speed ) Running 370's and an HX40. Timing was around 15-16 degree mark several times and the diesel only HP was Dyojetted at 430-440 range. Stumble and high rpm pop was still there.
We cranked in more timing ( 19 degrees ) and the stumble and high rpm pop was gone. HP climbed to 476. Same Dynojet.
We tried everything from 13-22 degrees. 19 was the best compromise. Auto tranny and high altitide may differ.
BTW, the DV's were and still are the stock babies that came in the pump.
Don~
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I forgot to say that the increase in timing is not going to make things any easier on the head gasket in any 12 valve. Most live a long life, but the head gaskets are known to blow at stock timing levels in the older 12 valves.
Don~
Don~
Originally posted by Don M
Less smoke. Less TQ. More HP.
You will have to extrapolate the plunger lift unless you have a light/transducer to measure your progress.
Less smoke. Less TQ. More HP.
You will have to extrapolate the plunger lift unless you have a light/transducer to measure your progress.
Don not to sound dumb but could you explain this a little clearer I do have a snap sp-500 timing gauge also I have the pulse adapter for a timing light I use it on the old ford diesels. Matt
I have the 370's in my truck with the laser cut DV's and 17.5* of timing. I just put a set of 3k gov springs in. Now that I have the Gov springs I can not get the truck to run right. I was wondering if someone on here could help me out. Are the Laser Cut DV's to big to run in a 95 pump. I am not sure what horsepower my truck is at. I have also been hearing that I should set my timing up to 19* but I would like more power on the bottom end than at high RPM. Could anyone help me out with my problems.
I don't know what is going on with my truck. It runs like crap from 1100-2k RPM's. it does fine under WOT but when trying to drive around it lopes and jerks. I was told the laser cut DV's will help so thats my next step along with timming the truck at 16 unless there is a reason I should go higher. "stock HG"
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