I cant say enough about the wealth of info on this site. The truck is a 10-wheeler dump-truck. All I did was run the star-wheel up several rounds and it is like 100 horses were turned loose. With 18.75 tons in the bed it performed better than with 5 tons before. I need some real EXPERT opinions on what profile to grind the plate to for some upper end power. It starts off great and mid-range is good but the speedo start getting sluggish after 1700 rpm's. TIA

 

tyrod.. I guessing you have guages in the 8.3l???? If I remember correct some of the 8.3L were low reving engines?? what's the red line?? sounds like its starting to defuel... G-springs???
Bryan

 

JD, I looked around in the truck for some factory info. It is usually on the visor but this truck only has the pto info. I havent turned the starwheel all the way forward yet. I dont have a full understanding of what it does. I am going to install a pyro and then a boost guage this week. I was just hoping some people had some experience with the Heavy Duty side of plate grinding and so on...It is soooooo much better than it was with just one adjustment I cant wait to unleash the beast once some guages are in place

 

Hauling those kind of loads, I hope your boss man has some rear ends saved up with your new found power.

 

Star wheel is for low boost fueling.....more wheel...more smoke/power......

 

Anyone have any suggestions on what profile fuel plate to grind? I thought about doing the "0" and backing the AFC up and ease it forward according to what the pyro allows. Is this a bad idea? I need it to pull at 2000rpms. It has plenty of gears for 45mph and under. I need the hwy torque for hills. Thanks again.

 

Like was said; I dont think its your plate; Its probably your governor springs. You could slide the stock plate forward a little, but I wouldnt worry about grinding it. You will start getting it hot if you dont watch it. Maybe the stock governor springs out of a 94-98 would work, and you could put some of them in for cheap to get a few more rpm out of it?

Eric

 

Up the gov springs by using a washer that will allow you to tighten the gov springs a couple clicks but bypass the idle spring. The washer will push down on the inside spring set. When you have clicked down to reach the big outside idle spring you are done and the top end is a higher rpm but it will still behave nice at idle.
Cost? One set of washers.

Big Jimmy

 

I know on the midrange trucks, timing is very important. Most are retarded for emissions. Advance the timing and you will lose a little off idle but will have more mid and top RPM pulling power. Plus better EGTs.
Good luck

 

I did an F-800 a while back with a 5.9. I did a Torque Plate (I think a #3 Bully Dog) RV injectors (40-60 HP) and G-Springs. IT MADE A WORLD OF DIFFERACNE! BUT EGT's were WAY up. We did install a Pryo (since the interior was just like an 86 F-150's (A-Pillar was just like a 90's truck)). He has since talked about water meth.....timing is good....i just got a kit for it...and that should be done.......BUT i no longer work for that outfit........

 

I managed to get a good reference on how the truck is performing. With 19-tons in the bed it seems to be a little ahead of the factory settings in high gear and much better in the lower gears. Great advice guys, thanks. It is a 275hp rated motor. It is still the weakest on the lot. If I could get it to 350-375hp range I think it could run with the pack. Any links on the procedure with gov springs. I am not familiar with the inner workings of the pump. My read is that you guys dont recommend the plate grinding? Or try the springs first? Thanks again.

 

Here you go, hope this link helps. http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechGSK12V.htm

The GSK will allow the truck to have power at higher levls, because it moves the defuel point up. Grinding the plate would give you more power, but it would probably get real toasty. Try the GSK first.

 

You can hog out the adjustment holes some what to move the plate fwd a little....but it only works so much...but might be just what you are looking for. ALSO i think the grind would be VERY differant than say a Dodge truck......i dont know what would be better...but might want to look into that rout swapping in a stock Dodge Plate.......If you get a chance to yank the plate out of the pump......take a pic and post it on here......that will tell alot on how the thing is fuleing.....

 

I dont have the camera for posting pics but it is starting to sink in on how things work as far as this pump goes. If I understand this correctly, the steps,hooks,crooks, and bumps are defueling points on the plate itself(?). This truck did have a catalyst in the muffler. It was a Tennessee state hwy truck so emissions were in its specs. The muffler was shot so it was cut and a resonator is on the way. It did not come with a factory pyro and does not have a place to put one. All the other "big"trucks have post turbo installs, should I do this one like those or should I install pre-turbo? What would be max sustained temps? I and "ol Yeller" thank you guys for the intel.

 

Pre-turbo....Drill and Tap with the truck running for no worries with shavings getting into the turbo. Pre-turbo max temp 1300* Sustained....you can spike it higher....just dont get to crazy!