I was possibly wanting to build a 650 hp cummins and was wondering which route would be easiest and cheapest, once a stock truck was bought!

 

Well with a 12v is will involve a lot of tweaking, tweaking, and more tweaking plus buying new hard parts like injectors, delivery valves, etc. But a CR can get there with just electronics (I think). I would say easiest would be CR, cheapest 12v (because you should factor in the cost of the truck).

 

The CR should be cheaper to get to 650, all other things equal.

 

How do you figure that? A lot of the stuff on the 12v you can do yourself such as sliding the plate, grinding the plate, setting the timing, adjusting the AFC. Parts are cheap as well. Granted the CR's are probably easier considering its plug and play but figure that each box is $600+ and injectors your looking $1000+. Not counting tranny and turbo's and head work since those are pretty much the same cost across the board.

 

The CR will have the ability to detune to stock, tow, mileage or whatever you want no matter the reason, with the 12v you will either be full throttle or whatever you get with the valet switch.
I would vote CR for creature comforts and tunability

Jamie

 

I agree that the 24v's are easier to daily drive at 650hp but as far as easy and cheap, you can't beat the 12v. No lift pumps to worry about, no injectors failing, no injection pumps failing, no worrying about harness's going bad or boxes going bad, no worry's on frying the ECM while programming it, no worries about draining the rail. Dang I wish I had a 12v.

 

Won't Scarry Larry and a TST put you over 650 (or dang close) with just a fuel system and 66 class turbo?

Tranny will have to be same either way. And it would take headwork, and serious air on a 12v to hit 650.

That was my thinking at leat Tyler... And yeah, I do love the toughness of my 12v

 

I'd vote common rail. The reliability issue is scary, but it's the hands down winner in the driveability dept.

 

You'd need a fuel system, turbo, and tuning time. And that's assuming that that stack will work on your truck.

 

Hands down in the driveability dept ?... who the hell builds a 650HP truck and pulls their foot out of it ?

 

I was thinking some one on here had done it. (Don't ask me who, I tend to not read much in the third gen forums.)

But I know it would take some lovin to get a 12v to 650.

Can we use drugs? Or are we not cheating

 

Oh there are people who have done it. Look at Luken. But it takes tuning and time and that stack isn't always gonna work. Not to mention that the scary larry only works on 05 autos as of now.

 

Mama was right, dem computers is da Devil.

I didn't know Scarry Larry was only for 05 autos. I retract my previous statements Give me a 12v And some drugs

 

Not to Burst your bubble Tyler...but it's gonna take a bit more than most think to hit 650 on a 12v for me! However, I have a smoke quota I want to be under, so that will require more work than usual!

Fuel Plate - $100
4K GSK and HD Valve Springs - $225
Injectors - $200 (for now, will upgrade later!)
DV's - $250
Fluidampr - $400
Cam - $950
Headwork - ??? + $250 for a used head
O-ring - $600
Studs - $450
Charger(s) - GT4088R and GT4508R $3000
Supplies for building twins - $750

Total - $7175 --- And I'll still have the head work, bigger injectors, and pump work to price!

Tranny - $~7000

Doesn't seem cheap, or easy to me! But it's fun

Also, someone's gonna say that a 66mm charger will make 650hp...IMHO, not on a 12v, and defiantly not in a way that would make me happy!

Chris

 

Chris.
I hear you on the smoke issues. Just got my p-pump conversion to 678hp on #2. Too smokey for a daily driver with these injectors. Still using 181dv's though. 1200deg at the end of the dyno run(but the runs are alot quicker than at 450hp). Head work and cam pay off at the 600+ mark for sure. I can daily drive at 600 by being careful with the pedal and rpm, but over Mach 4's, not sure it's going to happen. That's where the adjust on the fly would be nice. Just not what I have.