I'm looking for advice from the 12-valve gurus. I've got a bone stock 98 180hp pump that I'll be building. The goal is to hit the 600hp mark. There are a hundred different ways to just make 600hp but I'm looking for the quickest spooling, fuel efficient, reliable, 600hp that has no problem towing heavy. A taller order then average so your advice would really be appreciated. Know I understand this will be more expensive to reach these goals but I want to do it once and do it right. I have some ideas of how to build it but I let you guys tear it apart...

BD towing twins - figured they spool quick

BD intercooler

Head work - looking to go all out here but who does the best work?

Head Studs

Cam - who's?

CFM Intake manifold - yes no?

Exhaust Manifold - Those swirly doo headers sure look trick (I'm a welder so it might be fun to build one) but what kind of gains do they have over the standard aftermarket manifolds? (BD, ATS etc.)

DDP injectors - what size?

Pump work -is it worth it to have a shop tune it perfect or just do it myself? Also 3k or 4k? I wheel the hell out of the truck and need good throttle control but have heard the 4k can be real touchy.


Thanks for the help

 

an upgraded will exhaust manifold absolutly help big on spool up as would an intake manifold but you dont need to spend 300+ on them you could make your or pick up a home made one for 200 or less like i did (some people say it doesnt work but my butt dyno says different on the hourly trip to college). remember just like any engine the more air you can move the better and thats what your doing with the exhaust manifold and the intake manifold upgrades.
As for pump work it is up to u.. a fuel plate and delivery valve upgrades combine with a gsk, timing bump, and a afc tune will probably net you 600+ hp worth of fuel

 

If you are up in the air on who is going to do your pump, but have already decided on DDP injectors, I would recommend (having been in the business before), that you call DDP and see what they recommend for a complete package (turbo/injectors/pump, etc) to fit your requirements. I recommend this for a few reasons...

1. A shop that can offer all this in a one-stop shop, will know best what parts they can offer that are needed for your HP goal.
2. If you have any problems, calling 3 different vendors for help usually ends up with one vendor blaming another for power variances.
3. DDP has built plenty of trucks in this range and Lenny knows what he's doing. This should be a no-brainer for them. Stick with one shop.

 

on a 12v when you head up over 500 youll see a lot of smoke that doesnt clear easily. Youll need a good air filter and turbo to burn all that fuel.
I recommend scheid's injector pumps as well as peirs'. Im not a big fan of the industrial injection pumps.
DDP has some good injectors as far as atomization is concerned. They tend to smoke less and make good power. You might be able to use smaller injectors with a larger injector pump and retain that good atomization with increased pressure. Large injectors make for a lot of smoke and you cant do much about idle smoke. Going with a large pump should make a valet switch a nice option.
a cam will be a must for helping spool and control EGT.
I dont think youll see much benefit from intake or exhaust manifold mods. maybe faster spool with the exhaust.
Studs and o-rings will be necessary. I wouldnt port the head for that horsepower level unless you went for a really large turbo. You will need the 60lb springs though.
a built transmission like a DTT or goerends is a must if you have an auto.
Honestly Id find a diesel specialist near that races and go with their recommendations. Better to set up something thats proven to work than to try to dial in all this stuff on your own.

 

Columbus Diesel makes one baddonkey P-pump!!!

Also F1 Injectors are top quality IMO.

I hit 500hp this weekend in Haltom but had trouble with hooking up. Keep spinning on the rollers.

Make sure you get a good auto or manual upgrade. This is normally the most expensive but worth the money.

Google Extrude Hone. They can do your injectors and head.

 

Ive dynoed 616/1143 single turbo #2 only on a 175 pump
Pm me for details

 

Post up the details

 

building a set of twins is cheaper than buying a set, and you can get the exact turbos you want. on the smoke issue, the delivery valves are a larger factor than the injectors. high flow delivery valves will make nasty smoke with stock injectors and big injectors with 181dvs are much more controllable. im doing twins with an hx35 and ht3b, going for about 500-550hp and still able to tow. a 62/71/14 is hard to tow heavy without screamin at 2500rpms the whole time. an hx40 would work pretty well as a top turbo and then you can go a little bigger on the bottom to have enough air for 600hp. fuel is the easy part on these pumps. im going with DDP4's and stock 181dvs. i talked to a guy on here that made 650hp ish with ddp4's so they should be big enough for you. might be too much for me but i can detune with a fuel plate and valet switch if i have to, i just dont want to buy injectors twice!

 

.020 bored bottom end(due to scored cyl),custom ground cam,fire rings,14 mm studs,stock rebuilt head with #60 springs,5x.014 injs,full cut dvs,.120 dv holders,5kgsk,2095 plug,no plate or afc,SB66.

 

Who's 5k spring kit are you running?

 

I've heard DDP farms their pumps out to Columbus Diesel, so it would likely be cheaper to go directo to the source. Thats my plan for the 24v.

I will agree with the statement about the F1 injectors. Excellent manners, clean, and they start well in the cold. While having one shop do all the fuel components is a nice thing, you could ship your pump and injectors off to whatever shop you choose so they can tune your pump to your injectors.

 

what do you guys recommend for a cam, have hx40 over ht3b/27 twins and a big injection pump.

 

I run CDS 5k's

 

What do you think of them?

 

Thanks for the input guys keep it comin