...still won't drive straight down the road.

Have a Luke's Link on all tie-rods and the track bar. On the tie-rods, I started with 3/16" clearance per the instructions but the joints were so dang tight the truck wouldn't even begin to return to center after a turn. I pulled the caps and took 1/16" off the urethane spacer and put them back together. They still seem tight but I don't want to reduce the clearance anymore until I talk to J. L.

Replaced all four ball joints with Moog parts a few months ago.

Aligned it but it may need a re-alignment after the Lukes Links.

Four new Terra Grappler 295's.

I will adjust the steering box this weekend. It is loose, in that, the pitman arm moves back and forth in the direction it's supposed to but that will let the truck wander. I cannot detect any movement against the shaft rotation which would be minimized with a DSS.

I am so ready to sell the dang truck but it's not financially feasible.

Has anyone heard of tie-rods fabbed with spherical rod ends for a Dodge?

I can't think of any other method that would reduce the play in the suspension parts and I'm sure it would cost some bucks. I know they do it all the time with rockcrawlers and such but those rigs weigh less than the front of the Dodge alone.


Cleaned up by Moderator

 

You're not gonna want to hear this, but I'd stick with TRE's, not rod ends...

They wear much too quickly in a daily driver app.. I'm using TRE's in my whole steering system on my rig (trail rig), with no slop.

Sounds like your steering box isn't in the best of health...

 

Ya my Dad just had to replace his steering box at 225 K on his 1996 CTD 4x4. It was shot, he says it drives like a new truck, but there is still slop in the steering, he is gonna buy the Streering Stabilizer from solidsteel.com. I also told him to upgrade to the 03 trackbar or to buy the Dtprofab adjustable. I have heard good things about both. The adjustable is expensive, but nothing compared as what he has put into the truck trying to figure out the problem with the steering.
When I get my truck back from the paint shop I will be buying the Steering Stabilizer and when my trac bar wears I will be buying the adjustable. Hope this info helps.

 

I just did all of my ball joints and rod ends with Moog parts. I also replaced the spherical rod end on my track bar (aftermarket). I put the DSS on last year. The steering box is still shot, but the bearing pre-load adjustment made a big difference in the steering wheel play. It steers solid as the day I bought it.

Had it aligned last weekend, but it still drifts to the right a little. Gonna put it back on the rack and check the thrust alignment, I have a feeling it might have something to do with getting rear ended on the interstate last year, they had to pull and square the frame.

Try the pre-load adjustment first. Have someone turn the wheel back and forth, get under the truck and see what's moving. I had a LOT of play in the steering box output shaft. Wasn't that obvious until I had my wife turn it lock to lock while I watched underneath.

 

I believe some or possibly all of the problem is in the steering box.

Last night, I had my daughter saw the wheel while I check the LL's for play and then the steering box. I can see a little movement at the pitman arm but what is odd, is that I can feel a grind/thunk at a certain point in the pitman shaft rotation.

I have heard all along on TDR that there is not a bearing supporting the shaft on the pitman arm side of the box. However, the Factory Service Manual shows a bearing on the top and bottom and it appear to be a needle bearing assembly. If this is the case, what I feel may be bad needles.

I will adjust the box but I want to see if the bearing is replaceable and if there is a source in Houston for the parts.