Will it fit? The window sticker on the truck says I have 16x8.8 rims on it. Don't know if I believe that since I measured and it was closer to 166x8 than 16x8.8. Does anyone make a tire skinny enough to fit a 35" one on the stock rim? I am going to put a leveling kit on ol' Blue when I get ready to buy new tires (which will be some time in the near future. To many burnouts ;D) and I don't have the money to buy new rims, tires, AND the lift. Besides, I like my stock rims and I like the look of a tall, narrower tire better than a tall, wide tire. Will I have to buy 16x9's if I do go with the 35's? Thanks yall.

 

I know they sell a Super swamper 36x11.00-16 for duallys So I'm sure you can find a 35.

 

Technically, the widest tire that should be mounted on a 8&quot; wide rim would be 10-11&quot; wide.<br><br>Having said that, I've mounted 35x12.5&quot; tires on 8&quot; wide rims on my prior trucks with no problems.<br><br>My ordered truck comes with 17x8&quot; rims. ASAP, I'm going with a 2&quot; leveling kit and 35&quot; BFG TA/KO's (315/70/17). Yeah, I'll have a slight bulge (don't anybody touch that one) and the tread will wear a bit more in the center, but I'm not concerned. I don't like going with offset wheels that make the whole package stick out more (don't touch that one either).<br><br>Best to y'all<br>Bill

 

I run 35's, but you have to run low air pressure to get get wear out of them.

 

Backspacing on the front axle is important on the dodge truck because of 1/8th inch spacing between the bearings opposed to 4 inches between the bearings of trucks equipped with hubs. Don't over do it or you'll be replacing bearings from ackward load.

 

wait whats this about backspaceing and wearing out bearings? I planed on getting some 38inch tall tires or so on mine.. as narrow as possable. I doubt I can get that for the stock 16inch wheel so I'm looking at 19-20&quot; or whatever is cheap. if I go with a bigger wheel does it still wear out the bearings? also wheres a good place to check out big wheels for cheap

 

I don't mind the tire bulging out from the rim. I like that look and it protects the wheel from curbs. So, if I do this, the bearings in the wheels may wear out faster cause of the load? One of the main reasons I am doing this is cause one, I don't have the money, and two, turning. I should be able to turn lock to lock without much rub hopefully. If I went to wide, I'd have that problem. I went mudding yesterday and I desperately need some bigger tires. Wider would be nice cause I'd have a little more flotation, but I can air down some for that. How low of air pressure would I need? I usually draw a chalk line across the tire and drive in a straight line and see how the chalk line wears. If it wears in the center, to much pressure, if it wears on the edges, to little. That's how I adjust pressure. And if I have to carry a load in the bed, depending on size, I'll add about 5-10 psi. I'm thinking about going with teh same type tires, just a bigger size. The Goodyears clean amazingly well for an all terrain (almost as good as a mud).

 

You can get 38x11.00-16's and 38x12.50-16's from Super swamper. Also the same sizes in 36&quot;. Those are skinny enough for dual rear wheels. Or you can get wider wheels and wider tires, up to you. You can get bigger 19&quot; or 20&quot; wheels as long as you keep the same relative back spacing. If you lessen your back spacing to gain turning clearance then you're putting your bearings in a bind and the seals will wear out to. Get as big of a tire as you want.. just keep the wheel flange in the center as much as possible. No &quot;deep dish&quot; wheels. In relation to disconnect's vs. hubs this is what ours looks like compared to a hub set up. Dodge: ||=|| Ford: ||===================|| In the way of bearing spacing. Check out the dodgeram.org website on proper backspacing for our trucks.

 

I don't want swampers. To loud, don't last long enough. I want a set of BFG's or the same set of Goodyears I have now. I didn't plan on going any different backspacing. I'm just curious if a 35x12.50 would fit on a 16x8 rim.

 

Heads up, boys! ;D

I've been cruising the tire sites looking at specs and prices. I just ordered a set of BFG T/A KO's 315/70/17 for $138 each. They're normally $208 each on the web and the stores around here sell 'em close to list price.

$75 shipping from Reno to Salt Lake City with a $14 FET charge. Got 'em at tirerack.com. Woooooo Hoooooo. Even with the shipping, it beats the deals at the stores here by almost $300.

'Course, the sad part is I'm getting stuff already for a truck I do not even have yet!

Best to y'all
Bill

 

No, the sad part for me if is I can't even fathem the amount of $$ you must make to beable to afford a new 2003 truck and still be ording stuff for it.

 

;D Oh, sure - Superduty. Looks to me from your specs you're lookin' to do some serious investing too! 8)<br><br>Sounds like that truck of yours is going to be a monster with 5&quot; of lift and 36's. I'd like to see some pics of it when you get it done.<br><br>Best to y'all<br>Bill

 

I'm on my 3rd set now of 315/75R16's (which are basically a 35-12.50R16) mounted on the stock rims. 8&quot; is the narrowest rim recommended to run them IIRC. And like Stake says, you have to run your air pressure a little lower to keep from wearing out the centers. But it's doable........<br><br><br>HTH<br>Jason<br>

 

Thanks JHansen.

 

You're welcome BigBlue-I guess the other thing I should mention is that on the stock rims you will rub the control arms at full lock-but nowhere else at least on my truck. I have running boards which effectively shrink the wheel opening as well. The control arm rub is not that bad with a mild treaded tire but with the BFG M/T's I have mounted now it gets your attention pretty quick-and everyone else's within earshot! But I wouldn't go back to 285's now.....<br><br>HTH<br>Jason<br>