I just bought the solenoid from Graniner to do the 2wd low conversion on my truck this week. I was telling a guy at work about doing that and he said that he heard of folks putting their jeeps in 4wd low and not locking their front axles. He said they'd always twist axles off and break stuff. Does anyone that has done this had any problems like that or does anyone think this is a feasible concern? I'm sure the axles will hold up...after all I've put them through....but was just wanting a warm fuzzy that I won't tear something up with the added power. I should be able to do a wheelie, no?

 

ur more likely to tear stuff up, but if your sensible, it'll be fine. i wouldnt go 2 lo and go doing burnouts and stuff. i had it on my gasser and even with that, id make sure to roll into the throttle, not hammer and not stay in it if i got in heavy terrain (axle hop, etc.) for moving trailers or just creeping along, it wont give u any problems....

 

That is exactly my intent. It will be nice to have a lower gear to put the truck in and creep over rough terrain with heavy trailers on. Since these darn 'go pedals' are so touchy now on these trucks, I can't keep my foot still enough to not jump along. It will also come in handy when loading hay by myself. I can put the truck in low and jump out and I'll be able to keep up with it. 4 wheel low is great for that, but you can't turn!

For those who are wondering:
Order Avail. Your Extended
Qty Item# Description Qty Page Price Price
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1 2G497 Valve,Solenoid,1/8 In 1 1513 $44.00 $44.00
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Subtotal: $44.00
Tax: $3.85
Freight: $3.94
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* Total Cost: $51.79

 

yup, i know what you mean, and its really nice when ur trying to back a heavy one up...on my 05, i get a little clutch chatter after creeping my trailer up the hill....i miss my 2 low, i end up getting it straight, then dropping it in 4low to make the final hill climb. P.I.T.A.!!

anyway, u'll be fine, just be sensible on it...resist the urge to light those tires up with a trailer behind you!!

 

It is kinda hard to light up a set of dualled 285's!!! I've got more rubber than Hugh Heffner!! (did that make sense? It was supposed to turn out funny ).

 

You can't break front end parts if the front hubs aren't locked (regarding your Jeep comment). I would do this all the time on my K5 Blazer that has manual hubs. I miss that. Like already mentioned, these stout drivetrains in the Dodges will be fine. I have a hard time you could break something pushing/pulling trailers around when you have sled puller trucks with stock drivetrains doing the same thing except for floor boarding it.

If and when my CAD goes out, the posi lock looks good. Then you have your 2wd low.

 

Never mentioned breaking "front end parts" but I do have a question. How exactly does a posi-lock give you 2wd low? Is this different from a posi-track? I don't know squat about axles and junk.

 

Basically you rip off the Vaccum disconect, and hook up a cable! Pretty trouble free as long as you use it some, to keep the cable freed up!!

Chris

 

Like the guy above said, you remove the vaccuum motor deal and replace it with a plate that has a cable that connects to the coupler that slides. The cable runs inside the cab and you push/pull it to lock in your front axle. It's a company that makes it for multiple vehicles that have finicy 4wd actuators like DOdge and Chevie's early IFS stuff.

Basically, it then allows you to operate the transfer case and front axle disconnect as two seperate items. You can now use "4lo" without locking in your front axle so now you can turn and no hopping.

 

O. I get it. Na...I'll just do it with a switch and block the vacuum from sliding it over with a valve. I'm an electrical nerd. That's my style! Thanks for the info.

 

having 2wd low isn't the only reason for going with the Posi Lock, most people go with it when the vaccuum setup goes out.

You'd have to be a little carefull on how you go about blocking vaccuum to the motor down on the axle.

 

It's like the same JUNK that I have on my Jeep, it has the stupid vacuum actuated deal and man does it suck......give me some good ol' manual hubs!!

Pretty much the only thing I gave Ford credit for was that they kept the manual hub design where Dodge and Chevy did away with it. I guess people these days are just plain lazy!!

Jory, sounds like your idea will work pretty slick......nothing like having to back up trailers with a manual in 2HI.........

~Nick

 

Ya. I hear ya. I figured, if I blocked the vacuum from pulling the slider over into 4 wheel on the front with a soleniod valve, it would stay in 2 wheel low. If I then needed the front to assist, I could just flip the switch off, and the front would go ahead and pull in. But, I can't drop the front out until the transfer case shifter goes back to 2 wheel to pull the slider back the other way. Huh, now that I think about it, I should have bought a directional control valve and I could just use the switch to pull the front in and out as I please with the transfer case in 4 wheel. That sparks more imagination!

 

A directional switch would be the way to go.....

The stupid design on my Jeep has two hoses going to the actuator..one supply and one vent......so here I am bouncing on some rocks, flex out the front end and the dang supply hose slips off and unlocks my front!!! Boy talk about screwin ya in a bad way!!


~Nick

 

Crap. Now I have to return this valve and get a directional control valve! Thanks for the idea. That will be great. Place the shifter in 4low, then I can control if the front is in or out or in or out in or out......I'm getting excited here!