2500 to a 3500
you know i thought about doing it, our trucks and fords have floating rear axles so you could convert them in to a drw. i would think all you need is the wheels and the fender flare. anybody correct me if i am wrong.
I did it, very easy. Use Arrowcraft spacers, stay away from any aluminum spacers. You can call Arrowcraft direct to order spacers. She was very knowledgeable and answered any question I had, excellent to deal with. I'm not a sales rep, just a VERY satisfied customer. You can buy wheel/spacer kits, steel wheels and spacers or aluminum wheels and spacers. They use American Eagle wheels.
The hardest part was the money. I think after all is said and done, 4 new rear tires, $532, new steel flatbed, $2072, wheels and spacers, $1750(or so). Modify fuel neck to fit flatbed, $0, $120 stacks and the worry free feeling you get when you scratch your flatbed or jackknife the trailer and damage the trailer instead of the bed........priceless. As one guy put it you can fix it with a rattle can and a torch, no body shop pros needed. It took me one evening to put on flatbed, friend picked up old bed with towmotor, set new bed on and lined up. He went in house I stayed in the shop making brackets and attaching to frame. It took me another night, 5-10pm no dinner to mount my new rear tires and new front tires, install spacer and torque everything down.
Satisfied, completely. I'm posting up new pics in my sig. If you have any questions pop me a message.
The hardest part was the money. I think after all is said and done, 4 new rear tires, $532, new steel flatbed, $2072, wheels and spacers, $1750(or so). Modify fuel neck to fit flatbed, $0, $120 stacks and the worry free feeling you get when you scratch your flatbed or jackknife the trailer and damage the trailer instead of the bed........priceless. As one guy put it you can fix it with a rattle can and a torch, no body shop pros needed. It took me one evening to put on flatbed, friend picked up old bed with towmotor, set new bed on and lined up. He went in house I stayed in the shop making brackets and attaching to frame. It took me another night, 5-10pm no dinner to mount my new rear tires and new front tires, install spacer and torque everything down.
Satisfied, completely. I'm posting up new pics in my sig. If you have any questions pop me a message.
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From: Highlands Ranch, Colorado
I think if I'm going to do it, I'll upgrade to 19.5 alcoe wheels. What do you think?
Do the adapters make it so I can run dually wheels or am I supposed to run 2 sets of regular wheels?
Do I need adapters for the fronts?
Do the adapters make it so I can run dually wheels or am I supposed to run 2 sets of regular wheels?
Do I need adapters for the fronts?
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I think DWR axles are a little shorter in the rear, your rear tires may stick out farther than the fenders on a dually bed. As stated above...I know a flatbed conversion would work.
someone else will know for sure...
someone else will know for sure...
Ok, listen to what I am gonna say as I have learned...not an expert but have talked to many.
The cab and chassis has a narrower rear end, the regular dually as in the 3500 with fiberglass fenders has a wider rear end than the cab and chassis. They do this so you can fit your 4x8 sheet of plywood for you bathroom renovation between your wheel wells. With the cab and chassis you don't need that cause it's usually outfitted with some sort of utility bed.
If you buy the adapters(highly recommend Arrowcraft, again not salesman or affiliated just extremely satisfied with the knowledge and product) You'll want to buy the rear adapters then you can run dual rear(dished) wheels. You'll need the adapters or your inner dual will hit your brake drum or rotors. If you call Arrowcraft or whoever let them know what size tires you'll be running on the rear. I went with 235/85/16E's and she gave me a bit deeper offset on the inner steel wheel to accomodate the tire.
They sell the 19.5's and I recommend that you check on one of there adapter and wheel kits, comes with all you need. They even offer tire/wheel/adapter kits.
Do you need adapters for the front? Well, not really, will the truck look good with regular wheels on the front and dished in the back......nooooooooo, in fact will be ugly...I had an old 68' that I did that to...just never looked right, nor did the rusty body, bed....and all. Also without dished fronts and adapters you'll need to carry two spares....or none but you'll have two seperate types of wheels. Easier with dished all the way around.
Fenders- they also offer fenders to attach to your regular bed. Then all you have to do is paint and your done. Your finished rear wheel rig will be right near 8ft wide from outside tire to outside tire. On mine I had to run 265/75/16's on the rear until I gathered the cash for my new rear tires, about a week. They were real close to touching and if the air pressure was down a bit they would. I thought they looked bad anyhow, gave it a beefy look.
After your all done it'll be like this.....
Before:
After:
Then you don't feel bad about cuttin that whole in your bed for two of these:

Any questions feel free to message me and I'll help out as much as I can. As far as I know, understand your conversion won't be any wider than a regular dually, not cab and chassis
The cab and chassis has a narrower rear end, the regular dually as in the 3500 with fiberglass fenders has a wider rear end than the cab and chassis. They do this so you can fit your 4x8 sheet of plywood for you bathroom renovation between your wheel wells. With the cab and chassis you don't need that cause it's usually outfitted with some sort of utility bed.
If you buy the adapters(highly recommend Arrowcraft, again not salesman or affiliated just extremely satisfied with the knowledge and product) You'll want to buy the rear adapters then you can run dual rear(dished) wheels. You'll need the adapters or your inner dual will hit your brake drum or rotors. If you call Arrowcraft or whoever let them know what size tires you'll be running on the rear. I went with 235/85/16E's and she gave me a bit deeper offset on the inner steel wheel to accomodate the tire.
They sell the 19.5's and I recommend that you check on one of there adapter and wheel kits, comes with all you need. They even offer tire/wheel/adapter kits.
Do you need adapters for the front? Well, not really, will the truck look good with regular wheels on the front and dished in the back......nooooooooo, in fact will be ugly...I had an old 68' that I did that to...just never looked right, nor did the rusty body, bed....and all. Also without dished fronts and adapters you'll need to carry two spares....or none but you'll have two seperate types of wheels. Easier with dished all the way around.
Fenders- they also offer fenders to attach to your regular bed. Then all you have to do is paint and your done. Your finished rear wheel rig will be right near 8ft wide from outside tire to outside tire. On mine I had to run 265/75/16's on the rear until I gathered the cash for my new rear tires, about a week. They were real close to touching and if the air pressure was down a bit they would. I thought they looked bad anyhow, gave it a beefy look.
After your all done it'll be like this.....
Before:

After:
Then you don't feel bad about cuttin that whole in your bed for two of these:
Any questions feel free to message me and I'll help out as much as I can. As far as I know, understand your conversion won't be any wider than a regular dually, not cab and chassis
redneck-welding I am working out a deal with another person to do this swap but if that falls through I live in bismarck ND and would be willing to swap parts with ya what gears do you have


