Most of these sets of lines i see are around 550-600 bucks for what seems to be a fairly basic part. I know haisleys has them for around that price. I've heard instances in other thread of a set of conversion lines costing around 300-400 is this true? If so where should i start looking. Also would it be possible to have my current lines taken to a machine shop and be stripped of their fittings and have new lines bent in their place? I'm trying to mill through my options here before i drop that much coin on a simple set of metal tubes.

Thanks,
Brendan

 

good questions I have a 24v in good shape and a worn out 12v between the two what all do I need to buy to do the converision? I know injector lines but what else?

 

Some guys have bent the stockers to fit. Don't recommend it, but its been done. Haisley kit is worth the money. You need air intake spacer, and gearbox plate off the 12v, and pump brace. You running an auto or stick? You also need a cam tach plate for the tach or a plate built for you're new pump as the tach is taken off the VP gear. Next, is you need to upgrade the fuel system. The 24v is electrical and 12v is mechanical, the supply pressure is different. You could slide in the 12v cam into the 24v and fix that problem and just go with the mechanical 12v lift pump.

 

Yeah rebending the stock aged lines seems a bit...scary. I'll steer clear of that. I'm going to call around to some local machine shops and a few fluid connector places in town and see if there's any options available locally and for cheaper. Also since i'm getting a 12v core block i should be able to use the intake elbow off of that motor correct? spacing shouldn't be an issue if that's the case.

 

We used to buy straight lines with the right ends from Scheids, then bend them ourselves.

 

12v and 24v cams are very different.....going down that road as we speak. You can get a 12v cam ground into a 24v cam and have the pump lobe.

 

Don't count on it. The elbows have about the same height on the underside from where they mount to the head. I believe the 12v intake is higher in relation to the injection pump than the 24v. I've got a 1" spacer on mine and its still pretty tight to the lines. Not to mention, the 12v comes out at an angle and has 5 bolts holding to compared to the 24v that comes out straight and has 4 bolts. Air enters the 12v head further back than the 24v (one set of holes on the intake cover plate), which is why they are different.

 

Touche salesman. I've heard of another place that sells the kit w/ spacer for around 400 i'm going to get the exact name of the shop and when i find out i'll let you know.

 

$400 was about all the kit cost a few years ago when I bought mine from Haisleys. I'm not sure what they cost now

 

Tate, could you just use another heater grid for the spacer? I can't remember is you put in an aftermarket cam in yours or used a 12v cam? We have to hook-up when you get into town.

This is to make room for the air horn to clear the pump. The cheapest route is to just buy an good 12v core and mix and match.

 

If you had a spare grid heater you could do that. Of all the things I have laying around, I still don't have spare grid heaters. I am still running the stock cam in mine.

 

my truck is a 98 12v and I am looking to put a p-pumped 24 in, am I crazy. what parts do I need. I think the answer I got b for was to p-pump a 24valve truck.

 

the truck in question is an auto

 

if you already have a 12valve I would leave it alone, the 24v head would flow better but it would be cheaper and easier to have someone go through the 12 valve head and open it up

 

I wouldn't pull a 12v for a 24v, even with a p-pump on it. Swap should be fairly straight forward. Just have to swap sensors and the balancer so you can keep your tach. You'd have to do something about your lift pump, either cam the 24v or rig up an electric one, or a belt driven mech. pump. Not sure there is enough benefit of the 24v head to justify all that work though.