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24 valves with p7100 conversion

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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 11:02 AM
  #16  
high country's Avatar
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From: spokane/N. ID
did you just use the early truck linkage for the throttle?
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 04:38 PM
  #17  
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From: Randolph Oh
Haisley's sells the lines with the riser for the air horn for around $500. They ain't cheap but the came bent perfectly. I used a throttle cable from a 12 valve truck. I think If I had it to over I would just get an aftermarket tach, and not worry about the cam sensor. After all the factory 4000 rpm tach just ain't gonna cut it come pulling season
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 05:04 PM
  #18  
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From: Blanket TX--Odessa TX
P-pumped And Lovin It

i converted mine over labor and all for $2500 with haisley street puller cam i just went to the wrecking yard and bought a 98 12v moter with a cracked block for $500 called haisley machine and ordered street cam and .093 oversized p-pump injector lines then took it to a local mechanic and he installed for $400


I LOVE MY P-PUMPED 24V
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 05:06 PM
  #19  
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From: Blanket TX--Odessa TX
Originally Posted by 24valvepuller
Haisley's sells the lines with the riser for the air horn for around $500. They ain't cheap but the came bent perfectly. I used a throttle cable from a 12 valve truck. I think If I had it to over I would just get an aftermarket tach, and not worry about the cam sensor. After all the factory 4000 rpm tach just ain't gonna cut it come pulling season
My injector lines were 450 sent to my door
the cam was 460 shipped to my door
and my tach still works
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 06:15 PM
  #20  
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From: Browns Valley CA
I heard Scheid was selling a kit. I paid 400 for my lines.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 07:48 PM
  #21  
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From: Randolph Oh
Did you guys get the riser or just do what I did for the short term and gut a heater grid and slap it in there
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 08:16 PM
  #22  
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From: Olds,Canada
So then what the ECM and PCM and all electronic parts are then just plugging holes?
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 09:11 PM
  #23  
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From: Blanket TX--Odessa TX
Originally Posted by 24valvepuller
Did you guys get the riser or just do what I did for the short term and gut a heater grid and slap it in there
Yes that price was with the riser and the longer bolts

Jake
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 09:14 PM
  #24  
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From: Blanket TX--Odessa TX
Originally Posted by greenworks
So then what the ECM and PCM and all electronic parts are then just plugging holes?
not sure exactly what your asking but you keep your ecm and pcm so the gauges work you just relocate the ecm from the side of the block to wherever is convenient for you.

Jake
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 09:38 PM
  #25  
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From: Olds,Canada
Originally Posted by cummnz4x4pwr
not sure exactly what your asking but you keep your ecm and pcm so the gauges work you just relocate the ecm from the side of the block to wherever is convenient for you.

Jake
Thanks just wasn't sre if they would cause other problems like throwing codes all the time, being the VP is gone the APPS etc and all these would throw codes I guess just pull the bulb out and drive her
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 10:55 AM
  #26  
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From: utah
wow sounds more complicated than i thought. how much more power can you get from a p7100 than you can a vp44?
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 05:19 PM
  #27  
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From: Blanket TX--Odessa TX
Exclamation

Originally Posted by mx yfz 450
wow sounds more complicated than i thought. how much more power can you get from a p7100 than you can a vp44?
It really depends on pump if you go with a 913 then you can make upwards of 600-700 pretty easily, If you go with a piers stupid pump the power is nearly limitless,

BUT THE MAIN REASON I DID THE SWAP WAS THE RELIABILITY OF THE PUMP IN HIGH HORSEPOWER APPLICATIONS
the vp wont last long at 600hp
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 05:41 PM
  #28  
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From: Randolph Oh
this ain't complicated at all, getting stranded hundreds of miles from home cause your vp died is complicated. I was lucky mine died sitting on the trailer, but it was 150 miles from home at the EEP charity pull
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 08:44 PM
  #29  
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From: Wet Coast, Canada
I was all ready to do the swap myself and just figured it would be easier to sell the 24v and buy a 12v. I can say that a 12v with a GSK kit and a plate will make you hate your wire tapped 24v as far a drivability TALK ABOUT RESPONSIVNESS plus as its been said before you get a nice warm fuzzy feeling inside not having to worry if your VPs gonna get you home.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 09:09 PM
  #30  
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From: Olds,Canada
Originally Posted by ratsun
I was all ready to do the swap myself and just figured it would be easier to sell the 24v and buy a 12v. I can say that a 12v with a GSK kit and a plate will make you hate your wire tapped 24v as far a drivability TALK ABOUT RESPONSIVNESS plus as its been said before you get a nice warm fuzzy feeling inside not having to worry if your VPs gonna get you home.
I can imagine that this is true, but IMHO there is somthing to be said about on the fly adjustablity and eelctronic timing advancement, I also feel there have been good advances in technology with the VP, better lift pumps (FASS etc), better electronics on the vp (blue chip, HRVP), you rarely ever hear of a seized vp due to low fp, the heat/cool cycles are doing the damage to electronics.

I think you hit the nail on the head by simply buying a 12v, for the money you could sell a 24 valve for you could buy a 12v and bomb it pretty hard

Jason
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