Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

02 stock 5.9 5 speed. Plans to upgrade.

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Old 02-08-2010, 10:03 AM
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I've come to the conclusion that the injectors should be just big enough to run empty with cruise control with the fueling box off. Use the biggest boxes you need to get the power you want. If I was gonna change my set up I would go to a Mach2-ish set of sticks and a slightly larger turbo. Now, that is a daily driver spec! Drag truck? Pulling truck? GO CRAZY but street drivability will suffer.
Old 02-08-2010, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Dr Evil
So, on a freshly built engine, that the rings are broken in to create the right seal, there should not be dark oil created? (stock truck)

Thanks
No, even bone stock and brand new my oil got dark. A little slower, but it's a diesel thing! There are bypass filters to help pull smaller specks out of your oil, but I never went there. 5k oil/filter changes with Fleetguard Stratopore filters (and 10k fuel filters) has been my regimen with no ill effects so far, but I just turned 90k on the truck...
Old 02-08-2010, 10:13 AM
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It depends on your rings and the general condition of the motor. For a worn out motor, yes you'll get more blow-by. There is just more hydrocarbons left on the cylinders, with the bigger sticks, more soot. Soot is just incomplete combustion. The bigger sticks, you have more fuel, more soot, more heat and so on. A stock stick vs. a mach 1.6's, bet you actually see an improvement in mileage, soot build-up and a reduction in heat during driving. Just when you put your foot down, you max out the turbo size, lots of soot.

Blow-by can be caused by other issues. I had a cracked cylinder head that leaked combustion into the engine. I even had a injector loose, causing blow-by passing the injector body.

It will be rare that you'll have a problem from blow-by just from a worn out engine. These engines just go and go. I'll probably put in 7-10 head gaskets, three cylinder heads, four sets of twins, 6-8 different turbos and 20-30 sets of injectors into my truck. I don't have a blow-by issue, yet, I'm still under a million miles. My truck has been hot rodded since brand new and been over 80psi of boost lots of times. Spun the dyno too many times to remember and still drags my 5vr to my favorite camp ground.
Old 02-08-2010, 11:34 AM
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Does Mach 1.6 reference a brand plus a size if an injector??

New at this.
Old 02-08-2010, 11:39 AM
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The Mach series injectors are by F1 Diesel. Several vendors sell them and they have a great reputation. I also have heard good stuff about Dynomite Diesel. Everyone will have their own opinion, but GENERALLY you get what you pay for!
Old 02-08-2010, 11:42 AM
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Ah. I see. company and size.

So, it's a game. Either you're too rich or too lean. I guess being Too rich

is much better than being too lean. When too lean, you tend to burn things

up. When to Rich, you just don't product the power and end up with too

much black smoke. (Can Hydo lock occur when too Rich??)
Old 02-08-2010, 12:11 PM
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Injectors are based on more fuel flow (volume), the nozzle spray pattern, number of holes, to the angle of the spray into the cylinder. It to improve flow and atomization of the fuel. Everyone has there take on how to improve combustion and make more power. At some point you can't spray enough fuel, and the stock nozzle has to be changed. That when you get different amount of holes, sizes and different nozzles. Anyways, its beyond what most of here do anyways. Even the bowl of the piston makes a different and are usually matched to the injector spray pattern.

F1 Mach 1.6's are about the standard or best stick going for an everyday driver for our year of truck.
Old 02-08-2010, 12:27 PM
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Talking sticks

I take it, the Mach 1.6 is the mildest upgrade. I think someone mention oversubscribing the turbo with these. I take it this means black smoke.

More fuel than what can be burned..

Thanks.
Old 02-08-2010, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr Evil
Ah. I see. company and size.

So, it's a game. Either you're too rich or too lean. I guess being Too rich

is much better than being too lean. When too lean, you tend to burn things

up. When to Rich, you just don't product the power and end up with too

much black smoke. (Can Hydo lock occur when too Rich??)
your thinking is exactly wrong when talking about a diesel, you cannot ever hurt a diesel engine running it too "lean" it actually causes lower egt's and no power, this would be the stock setting, any amount of fuel over stock will improve power, take Mike's advice on injectors, he is not goiung to steer you wrong

if too rich (not enough air or too much fuel) to will melt a piston or a turbo

a gas engine is damaged running lean....not a diesel, two totally different things!
Old 02-08-2010, 08:37 PM
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Talking ????

Hmm.

Ahhhhh

O.k.

lean will net no power, but, won't hurt the motor. I would have thought

the net effect would be a burned up piston. I guess no fuel mean no

no combustion. No combustion means no power.


Too much fuel means big explosion, not all fuel is burned.

O.K. I guess so..


In the situation I want to create, will the mach 1.6 work, or need I go biggeer. (400hp 800lb ft torque)
Old 02-08-2010, 08:45 PM
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thats right!! diesels are the opposite of gas engines. a gas engine will run cooler when rich but a diesel runs hotter. why? i have no clue!! it is what it is....
Old 02-08-2010, 08:51 PM
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but for the most part, there still is a sweet spot where the engine will run the most efficient? Is this the task for a tuner or is it to just to try to get the engine to produce power asap??
Old 02-08-2010, 10:35 PM
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Talking Rear end

Well, I jacked the truck up.

Forgot being in gear and on a hell with the emergency brake on doesn't help when the rear end is in the air.


The truck rolled down he hill on the jack, hit a fire hydrent, a parked car and ran in to one of my neighbors garages.

Whewww..

Now that's funny right there..


Just kidding...

When in gear, the two wheels turn the opposite of each other.
When out of gear, Neutral, one wheel spins, the other doesn't move.

I would assume path of least resistance is the drive shaft. (I didn't look)
Old 02-09-2010, 01:36 PM
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you had me going for a minute!!

sounds like an open diff


Originally Posted by Dr Evil
but for the most part, there still is a sweet spot where the engine will run the most efficient? Is this the task for a tuner or is it to just to try to get the engine to produce power asap??
the tuner is adjusting your fuel and with some tuners timing can be adjusted as well. with the correct amount of fuel and air you will have optimum power and little to no smoke.
Old 02-09-2010, 11:37 PM
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So you have a slip rear end. Just weld the spiders or put in a LSD chunk. Where the weight of the hitch at for the trailer? Is it on the hitch or a goose neck. You might want to air bag the rear if you have a heavy hitch weight. What kinda of trailer you pulling? If you don't do lots of snow or mud/gravel driving, the slip rear issue isn't that big of deal. Up north hear, you need front lockers and a LSD chunk for the rear.


Quick Reply: 02 stock 5.9 5 speed. Plans to upgrade.



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