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Tractor clutch install???

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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 11:20 PM
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Tractor clutch install???

I have a Ford 601 Workmaster. For some reason, the clutch is stuck in it. You have to turn it off in order to shift it into gear. Do any of you have any suggestions on where i could get a tech article on the RI on a tractor clutch? Ive done plenty of RI on truck clutches but never a tractor. I know i have to split it in half and what not, but do i need any special tools for this? Thanks for the help.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 11:38 PM
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If you have hydraulics on this tractor, and I am assuming it's hydraulic clutch alot of times you can just bump the lift arm to release pressure to shift. On my Massey I have a high/low convertor I somtimes have to put into low to shift. If your not famililar with tractors, that's a pretty labor intensive project without the right shop to do it.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 06:30 AM
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We have a Ford 5000 that does the same thing. You either have a warped clutch plate or dirty input spline on the trans not letting it move away from the flywheel. The 601 fords are basically the next evolution of the 8N, so there is no hydraulic clutch, but there is live hydrylics.

Get your self an I&T manual for it or the service manual.

To split it your going to need a half decent set of splitting stands (beg, borrow, rent or make) to hold the halves up durning the replacment and to make wheeling it back together much easier. I recomend a smooth surface for this one. It could have a dual clutch, but I'm not sure because some do and some don't. Other than that its a nut and bolt job.

99cummins On your massey the reason you have to put in low is that when its in high there is a sprag clutch that if you where driving up a little hill and push the cluch in the tractor would stop and not roll backwards because of the sprag. This puts stain on the gears and there is no hope of sliding them out with that kind of pressure on them. Shifting into low takes that pressure off so you can shift it easier. Most torque amplication devices are like this. Also the high/low on your massey is hydrically applied.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 07:43 AM
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Tractor clutch

First question has the tractor been parked for awhile? The old ford's were known to get moisture on the clutch if they sit up for awhile. If this is your case, I have one suggestion for you before you split the tractor. Find a tree or loading dock or something solid, put the front of the tractor against it in first gear, keep the clutch disengaged and let it try to push into the object. It will spin the tires for a few moments then the clutch will become unstuck. You can also drive around with the clutch disengaged and lock the brakes down. This usually takes longer. I know this sounds crazy but at my Dad's repair shop we fixed many like this.

*This only work if it is rusted together.*

One way to check before you try this, there is a inspection hole in the bottom of the bellhousing. Look in there with a flash light to see if there is any rust(moisture) on the outer edge of the pressure plate.

Any tractor repair shop should be able to order you a repair manual. If you have any other questions just let me know.

Andy
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by JD730
We have a Ford 5000 that does the same thing. You either have a warped clutch plate or dirty input spline on the trans not letting it move away from the flywheel. The 601 fords are basically the next evolution of the 8N, so there is no hydraulic clutch, but there is live hydrylics.

Get your self an I&T manual for it or the service manual.

To split it your going to need a half decent set of splitting stands (beg, borrow, rent or make) to hold the halves up durning the replacment and to make wheeling it back together much easier. I recomend a smooth surface for this one. It could have a dual clutch, but I'm not sure because some do and some don't. Other than that its a nut and bolt job.

99cummins On your massey the reason you have to put in low is that when its in high there is a sprag clutch that if you where driving up a little hill and push the cluch in the tractor would stop and not roll backwards because of the sprag. This puts stain on the gears and there is no hope of sliding them out with that kind of pressure on them. Shifting into low takes that pressure off so you can shift it easier. Most torque amplication devices are like this. Also the high/low on your massey is hydrically applied.

O.K. Thanks for the help. I'm gonna try to order a manual for it today. What was the purpose of SOME of these tractors having a dual clutch?? Does it have something to do with having a secondary clutch for the pto???

Thanks,

A.Y.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by andyt
First question has the tractor been parked for awhile? The old ford's were known to get moisture on the clutch if they sit up for awhile. If this is your case, I have one suggestion for you before you split the tractor. Find a tree or loading dock or something solid, put the front of the tractor against it in first gear, keep the clutch disengaged and let it try to push into the object. It will spin the tires for a few moments then the clutch will become unstuck. You can also drive around with the clutch disengaged and lock the brakes down. This usually takes longer. I know this sounds crazy but at my Dad's repair shop we fixed many like this.

*This only work if it is rusted together.*

One way to check before you try this, there is a inspection hole in the bottom of the bellhousing. Look in there with a flash light to see if there is any rust(moisture) on the outer edge of the pressure plate.

Any tractor repair shop should be able to order you a repair manual. If you have any other questions just let me know.

Andy
Thanks for the help. We tried driving it around and popping the brakes. That didnt work. So ill do what you said and find an object ot push against..like you said this is probably more effective. Gonna try to order a manual today. I'll pull the bellhousing inspection bolt and look at that today.


BTW...67-72 chevy trucks are a great interest of mine. I'm working on a 70 short bed 2wd right now. Yours sounds pretty darn neat!

Thanks,

A.Y.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 11:24 AM
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Thats exactly the purpose for a dual clutch. I don't think 601's had them, but some newer ones do and alot of massey's have them.

I must be blind or something, I didn't see you had wrote the clutch was stuck. On that note, my dad just got an IH 100 clutch unstuck the other day. We had tried before over the summer, but couldn't get it to let loose. He evicted the residents from the bellhousing with his hot water pressure washer, got everything nice and warm with the hot water then judging by the tracks in the driveway he was very aggressive with his tractor to tractor drawbar setup. Got the job done though.

Becareful trying to push against something. I don't know if you have anything on the tractor to push against.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by JD730
Thats exactly the purpose for a dual clutch. I don't think 601's had them, but some newer ones do and alot of massey's have them.

I must be blind or something, I didn't see you had wrote the clutch was stuck. On that note, my dad just got an IH 100 clutch unstuck the other day. We had tried before over the summer, but couldn't get it to let loose. He evicted the residents from the bellhousing with his hot water pressure washer, got everything nice and warm with the hot water then judging by the tracks in the driveway he was very aggressive with his tractor to tractor drawbar setup. Got the job done though.

Becareful trying to push against something. I don't know if you have anything on the tractor to push against.

I gonna pull the inspection plug today and take a look at the pressure plate and inspect for rust. Do you think that if i spray it with WD or PB Blaster it might loosen it up some?? I looked up some clutch kits for the 601 and so far i have just found a single clutch... so im guessin that is what is in it.

Thanks,

A.Y.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 12:43 PM
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DO NOT spray WD40 or PB in there!!! If it is just rusted and stuck and you spray oil in there you have just ruined the clutch. It will not hold at all after that. Try to pull something or push something first.

B.T.W. I am in the process of starting a full frame off restore on my '72 if you have any pointers I would be thankful.

Andy
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by andyt
DO NOT spray WD40 or PB in there!!! If it is just rusted and stuck and you spray oil in there you have just ruined the clutch. It will not hold at all after that. Try to pull something or push something first.

B.T.W. I am in the process of starting a full frame off restore on my '72 if you have any pointers I would be thankful.

Andy

Alright...thanks for the warning...i haven't done it yet.

What all are you planning to do to your truck?


A.Y.
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 02:43 PM
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I want to completly strip it down to the frame, sandblast everything. And put it all back to original showroom condition. Body is in pretty good shape. It has the normal rusted out places, behind front tires,etc. Inside of the bed is kind of rough though. It will need a lot of work. I am not in any hurry on it. I just work on it when I have time and extra money for the parts. I found a real good catalog that has almost every part for these trucks, LMC Truck Parts I think.

Andy
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by andyt
I am not in any hurry on it. I just work on it when I have time and extra money for the parts. I found a real good catalog that has almost every part for these trucks, LMC Truck Parts I think.

Andy

Yeah I aint in no hurry on mine either. I would rather take my time and do it right when the money allows. LMC is a good place...but kinda steap on prices on some things. Go to www.chevyduty.com and order you a catalog. Its free. All color pics. Good prices too! Also www.protrucks.biz you can get a free Early Classic catalouge from them. www.67-72chevytrucks.com is a great resource for these trucks. My screen name is buildin72 over there. Come on over and join us!
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 12:12 PM
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Andy....I just have to ask...How did you come up with the idea to install an AC engine in your truck? How does it run? And how much trouble did you have installing it as far a room goes (firewall, framerail, etc)?? What kind of AC did it come out of??

I have been thinking about doing a diesel conversion on my truck, thats why i was asking.

Oh, and is your truck a swb or lwb?

Thanks,

A.Y.
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 12:32 PM
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AY, Thanks for the website suggestions. My dad put the engine in the truck back in '81 when he worked for Allis Chalmers. The engine was free from a 6080 AC tractor. The orignial 350 was very tried so he decided why not put the diesel in. This was my mom's truck before the conversion, but she could not drive it after because of the standard shift. The truck is a long bed 2wd. The only real frame mods was cutting the center of the front axle to clear the oil pan and building new motor and trans mounts. It runs very good but is not a speed machine, with the granny low Ford 4spd it tops out at 78 mph. In first gear though it pulls like hell. The truck has been all over the southeast and even to CA once with the diesel in it. It has over 100k miles with the diesel. Truck itself is around 250K miles. I will try and get some pics of it soon.
Andy
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 12:47 PM
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Alright;..thanks. I was origanilly thinking about building a 72 4x4 with a 6bt, but decided to restore my 2wd instead cause it was my grandpa's truck and he is gettin in very bad health, and you dont see many of these trucks in a swb fleetside. I thought about running a 6bt in my 2wd, but the 4x4 guys say your have to butcher the firewall and run about a 1.5" body lift for it to clear the firewall, and there was no way to hold the 1,100lb weight on the weak 1/2 ton frontend. So then i thought about a 4bt, but more than likely i would have to run 1ton coils up front for the weight, and i was planning on running a 4/6 drop on my truck. SO i'm still pondering on what to run. Might just have to run a built small block, but i haven't decided for sure.

Adam
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