subs
Re:subs
[quote author=MLR1 link=board=10;threadid=19245;start=0#msg181199 date=1062808729]
As for why audiobahn sponsors so many rigs it is simply marketing. The more you get the product out there the more you will probably sell. Name recognition in this buisness is 1/2 the battle.
[/quote]
Greatly said Sir.
As for why audiobahn sponsors so many rigs it is simply marketing. The more you get the product out there the more you will probably sell. Name recognition in this buisness is 1/2 the battle.
[/quote]
Greatly said Sir.
Re:subs
Im not knocking them I'd take their stuff for free to but do the sponsor to be in the top 5 or do they sponsor because no one buys it? Just curious because they seem to hand stuff out the easiest.
Re:subs
I have been installing home and car audio since I was in College, and some of the Japanese manufacturers rate their power amps @ non real world conditions. Here is an example.
A 500 watt RMS power amp made by Rockwood or some other lesser brand company, in the real world under normal operating conditions may only produce 30 watts @ the frequency it is used at. In other words, to truthfully rate a power amp the unit must perform and put out what it is rated at, at the frequency it is being used at. The problem is this, a rating may occur at an amplifiers most efficient frequency for a milisecond. This frequency may be out of the range that is audible for humans (i.e. 30,000 cycles). The rating may be real, but not practical for use. That is why you can go the swap meet and buy a 1,000 watt power amp, and it will not push drivers (subs) as well as maybe a PPI 100 watt amp. The american manufacturers are fairly straight forward about their ratings. It would be the equivolent of having your truck make 500HP @ 10,000 rpm. You could never get there to use it.
I would suggest buying used equipment on E-Bay in the Phoenix Gold brand for subs. They are bridgeable, have a 24db / octave crossover plus 12db worth of boost at the low frequencies. A ZX 250 would run almost anything you would get just fine. They are older, and only go for about $100.00. There are several other good poweramps in the world, and I am in no way saying that the other brands are not as good. I am just offering one feasable solution for a decent price. .......................... LE
BTW, My poweramps are mounted under the rear seat, and the DVD controller is mounted under the driver's side front seat. Let me know if you need pictures and I will send them to you...................... LE
A 500 watt RMS power amp made by Rockwood or some other lesser brand company, in the real world under normal operating conditions may only produce 30 watts @ the frequency it is used at. In other words, to truthfully rate a power amp the unit must perform and put out what it is rated at, at the frequency it is being used at. The problem is this, a rating may occur at an amplifiers most efficient frequency for a milisecond. This frequency may be out of the range that is audible for humans (i.e. 30,000 cycles). The rating may be real, but not practical for use. That is why you can go the swap meet and buy a 1,000 watt power amp, and it will not push drivers (subs) as well as maybe a PPI 100 watt amp. The american manufacturers are fairly straight forward about their ratings. It would be the equivolent of having your truck make 500HP @ 10,000 rpm. You could never get there to use it.
I would suggest buying used equipment on E-Bay in the Phoenix Gold brand for subs. They are bridgeable, have a 24db / octave crossover plus 12db worth of boost at the low frequencies. A ZX 250 would run almost anything you would get just fine. They are older, and only go for about $100.00. There are several other good poweramps in the world, and I am in no way saying that the other brands are not as good. I am just offering one feasable solution for a decent price. .......................... LE
BTW, My poweramps are mounted under the rear seat, and the DVD controller is mounted under the driver's side front seat. Let me know if you need pictures and I will send them to you...................... LE
Re:subs
I know about what I want. I want to run 3 10" subs. and one amp for the doors anf rears and one amp for the subs. I want bump but nothing that will break a window. and I would like to stay under 600 bucks for the box speakers and amps for now. maybe only one amp would work until the 600 dollar limil got larger :
DM01

DM01
Re:subs
[quote author=dodgeman01 link=board=10;threadid=19245;start=15#msg181533 date=1062910510]
I know about what I want. I want to run 3 10" subs. and one amp for the doors anf rears and one amp for the subs. I want bump but nothing that will break a window. and I would like to stay under 600 bucks for the box speakers and amps for now. maybe only one amp would work until the 600 dollar limil got larger :
DM01
[/quote]
Bubba I've got 2 10" Sony Xplod's, each in a single truck box behind each seat with a Crossfire VR 404 and it will rattle the truck without breaking anything. The VR 404 is a 4-channel amp that I have running my 6x9 Sony Xplod door speakers and my 2 10's. I have both of the 10's on one channel too because I ran only one 10 for about a year or so then bought another one. Well when I went to hook it up to the last channel left it would work for about 10-15 minutes then cut out. Took it back to my installer twice and he claimed to have fixed it both times, but it didn't. Finally a friend suggested that I try running both 10's on the one channel that was working, but not bridged. Been that way every since with no problems.
This I have a total of about $600 in not counting installation.
I'm content with it! ;D
I know about what I want. I want to run 3 10" subs. and one amp for the doors anf rears and one amp for the subs. I want bump but nothing that will break a window. and I would like to stay under 600 bucks for the box speakers and amps for now. maybe only one amp would work until the 600 dollar limil got larger :

DM01
[/quote]
Bubba I've got 2 10" Sony Xplod's, each in a single truck box behind each seat with a Crossfire VR 404 and it will rattle the truck without breaking anything. The VR 404 is a 4-channel amp that I have running my 6x9 Sony Xplod door speakers and my 2 10's. I have both of the 10's on one channel too because I ran only one 10 for about a year or so then bought another one. Well when I went to hook it up to the last channel left it would work for about 10-15 minutes then cut out. Took it back to my installer twice and he claimed to have fixed it both times, but it didn't. Finally a friend suggested that I try running both 10's on the one channel that was working, but not bridged. Been that way every since with no problems.
This I have a total of about $600 in not counting installation.
I'm content with it! ;D
Re:subs
I've got 2 Alpine Type R 12's in a 1.3 cubic foot box under my back seat powered by a 1500wx1 Audiobahn amp. These are my temporary subs till Txredneck gets mine back. These subs SLAM!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My friends can here my subs before they hear my truck. They sound good. Crisp, clear. I still prefer the Audiobahn's though. They were even crisper and clearer ;D. Only problem with the Type R's is that they want 1.0 cubic foot of air space and my box is 1.3 cubic foot. So they kind of echo a little. Oh well. They'll do for now until I get the Audiobahn's back. They didn't like 1 ohm to well. :P
Subs..Other side of the coin
It seems to me that I must be the only one who finds the sound of loud rattle the windows type music systems to be extremely irratating. Don't get me wrong, if that is what you like more power to you. I appreciate the skill used to build and install your system. But, I can't help but get aggravated when I hear someone pulling up next to me or even getting close to the house. To tell on myself, my daughter brought some slug home a few years ago with a system like that. The speakers are still in the sinkhole and the slug never came back. (I was trying to work livestock at the time).
Don't want to start anything, just offering another perspective.
Edwiththeoverlysensitiveears
Don't want to start anything, just offering another perspective.
Edwiththeoverlysensitiveears
It's my pot and I'll stir it if I want to. If you're not careful, I'll stir your's as well!

Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,263
Likes: 209
From: Central Mexico.
Re:Subs..Other side of the coin
I have never understood (even when really young) why quantity of sound takes precidence over quality. It seems to me that most of the younger generation have no idea of sound quality and think they can disguise it with extra volume. Over the years I have tried different sound systems in my vehicles and at home and found that the system that delivers the best sound at the lowest volume has the ultimate listening quality. Granted, a few pieces beg to have the volume turned up a little, but for overall listening, for me anyway, quality beats quantity hands down, everytime.
Window rattling sound is a major source of irratation to me, Specially when all you hear are the drums. There is ZERO quality in that!
Window rattling sound is a major source of irratation to me, Specially when all you hear are the drums. There is ZERO quality in that!
Re:subs
Mexstan I see where your coming from with that about the quantity over quality. I try to talk guys into good sound over thump but all the young lads like the thump thump to impress the ladies.
Anyways My truck may slam bass when needed but most times its very tame and the sound quality is very high as I am very pickey. But keep in mind with subwoofers that they don't pound unless you have huge bass boost turned up or the song was made with that much bass that its supposed to sound like that for an example if I say stick a country CD in and crank it there will be bass but very little and not rattle the windows or anything and the mids and highs will sound amazing and clear. Now take a good dance song and stick it in without changing the volume or settings and get window vibrating bass its because the music is made that way. Now for those that listen to their type of music but get no rattle its becasue the music does not contain the bass frequencies to shake anything. I guess the younger generation with the rap hip hop and dance more or less rule the radio thats what they play and it has bass. Now a really bass song can sound just as good at half volume as full but for most they like everyone to hear (which I hate) becasue they are trying to get attention. It annoys everyone and is really irritating. My truck under full volume cannot be heard from more then 5' away this is not becasue it isn't loud its becasue I have done it properly with dynamat and sound proofed the cab to keep the good sound in and the bad sound out.
Anyways My truck may slam bass when needed but most times its very tame and the sound quality is very high as I am very pickey. But keep in mind with subwoofers that they don't pound unless you have huge bass boost turned up or the song was made with that much bass that its supposed to sound like that for an example if I say stick a country CD in and crank it there will be bass but very little and not rattle the windows or anything and the mids and highs will sound amazing and clear. Now take a good dance song and stick it in without changing the volume or settings and get window vibrating bass its because the music is made that way. Now for those that listen to their type of music but get no rattle its becasue the music does not contain the bass frequencies to shake anything. I guess the younger generation with the rap hip hop and dance more or less rule the radio thats what they play and it has bass. Now a really bass song can sound just as good at half volume as full but for most they like everyone to hear (which I hate) becasue they are trying to get attention. It annoys everyone and is really irritating. My truck under full volume cannot be heard from more then 5' away this is not becasue it isn't loud its becasue I have done it properly with dynamat and sound proofed the cab to keep the good sound in and the bad sound out.
Re:subs
As an OEM audio system designer these threads always catch me. Every chance I get, I try to get in a kid's ride and listen to his after-market system. As you guys suggest, it's always heavy in the bottom and high ends; over-EQ'd and nowhere near the original source. If you get in a vehicle, the bass is loud, but not overly obnoxious. It's when you step out away from the car and are able to hear a full wavelength that it gets annoying. It's a physics problem that I can't solve.
I like easing up on the left side of a ricer at a light, windows down, and sheet metal rattling, put the pipe at the guys door and clear my exhaust. That usually solves it.
I like easing up on the left side of a ricer at a light, windows down, and sheet metal rattling, put the pipe at the guys door and clear my exhaust. That usually solves it.
Re:subs
I'm sorry if I offended any one .........wasn't the intention ......I was at work on night shift number 7 ....I sometimes don't think to clear about what I'm posting then .........sorry
anyhow I agree totally with jamie a nice well balanced system is great and what I want..but that doesn't mean it can't be loud when you want it to be with the appropriate bass material
and guys sound deaden you truck a couple 70 sqft shop rolls of brown bread, or dynamat will do wonders ..........systems heard pounding from way down the street are not cool and give all car stereo enthusiests a bad name
I had a system capable of 150 db in my truck , I know that's not real loud by some of you db dragger's standards and it was on the old audiocontrol mics , but anyways with the brown bread you could stand right outside my truck with the windows up and the tunes cranked and not hear a thing
I could set off car alrms in the parking lot with the windows down and a 45hz tone though
( I did this at a db drag event.......don't go cruising parking lots doing this...........uncool)
somebody mentioned some oldschool zx series pG's on here .............way cool amps I had a zx350 and zx 600 in my jetta .......cool amps....bullit proof
anyhow I agree totally with jamie a nice well balanced system is great and what I want..but that doesn't mean it can't be loud when you want it to be with the appropriate bass material
and guys sound deaden you truck a couple 70 sqft shop rolls of brown bread, or dynamat will do wonders ..........systems heard pounding from way down the street are not cool and give all car stereo enthusiests a bad name
I had a system capable of 150 db in my truck , I know that's not real loud by some of you db dragger's standards and it was on the old audiocontrol mics , but anyways with the brown bread you could stand right outside my truck with the windows up and the tunes cranked and not hear a thing
I could set off car alrms in the parking lot with the windows down and a 45hz tone though
( I did this at a db drag event.......don't go cruising parking lots doing this...........uncool)somebody mentioned some oldschool zx series pG's on here .............way cool amps I had a zx350 and zx 600 in my jetta .......cool amps....bullit proof
Re:subs
Believe me, I am not offended and intended none myself. Sounds like you guys discussing this have both common sense and courtesy. Wish you could come around my area and "inforn" some folks around here. In fact, most of the irratating folks appear to be high school age or the younger GIs. (or my own wife, she currently has a very wierd taste in her music choices) 
Ed

Ed
Re:subs
Having to agree with Jamie on this...
All three of my vehicles around here have pretty serious stereo systems. All have XM and all have separate amps just for the subs.
The mission in setting up these systems was to get clean crisp sound out of the mids and tweets and have separate bass control for the subs. Setting HP (high pass) and LP (low pass) so that there is MINIMAL wrong tone going to inappropriate speakers.
Yes, They can Thunder but when they do you can hear the words clear and crisp!
I tried to help a local kid set his system so his door speakers wouldn't BLUNDER too as his subs boomed and he didn't want me to, he said he liked it that way. These are the people that annoy you!!!! The irony is he had a system capable of separating out the blundering!!!
I am 37 I want the quality not the rattle... So it is kinda out there to think that everyone that sets up a system with amps and subs just wants to rattle windows. I am a little "old" for all of that but not too "old" to enjoy a great quality stereo.
James
All three of my vehicles around here have pretty serious stereo systems. All have XM and all have separate amps just for the subs.
The mission in setting up these systems was to get clean crisp sound out of the mids and tweets and have separate bass control for the subs. Setting HP (high pass) and LP (low pass) so that there is MINIMAL wrong tone going to inappropriate speakers.
Yes, They can Thunder but when they do you can hear the words clear and crisp!
I tried to help a local kid set his system so his door speakers wouldn't BLUNDER too as his subs boomed and he didn't want me to, he said he liked it that way. These are the people that annoy you!!!! The irony is he had a system capable of separating out the blundering!!!
I am 37 I want the quality not the rattle... So it is kinda out there to think that everyone that sets up a system with amps and subs just wants to rattle windows. I am a little "old" for all of that but not too "old" to enjoy a great quality stereo.
James
Re:subs
I do have to add that my daughter's Tahoe has a 1500 watt MTX mono amp, 2- 12" MTX subs, and a 500 watt 4 way amp powering her door speakers...
That CAN be very obnoxious even though the words and music still are very prevalent amoungst the BOOM!!!
J
That CAN be very obnoxious even though the words and music still are very prevalent amoungst the BOOM!!!
J


