Redleg

[quote author=Hoss link=board=10;threadid=14726;start=15#138398 date=1053004083]<br>[quote author=Lary Ellis (Top) link=board=10;threadid=14726;start=0#138198 date=1052953511]<br>Hoss, every single question you have asked here has been gone over a hundred times while you have been here. May I ask just what were you reading when you were here the last couple of years? <br><br> Don't worry though this is just between us I won't tell another soul..... I promise ;D<br>[/quote]<br><br>Up until recently I've rarely ever ventured out of the &quot;Other&quot; forum...and I've never cared about diesel topics until now (since I drove a gasser). ;D I'm too lazy to do a search...so I just ask whatever questions that come to mind. ;D<br><br>Here's another one...<br><br>Question #10 - Do most of you guys change your own oil or have it done for you? Aside from using 12 quarts instead of 6, is there any difference in changing the oil on a diesel or do you change it the same way you would a gasser? What does a typical oil change cost for these beasts? $90??<br>[/quote]<br>I take the old oil to Advance Auto, they let you dump for free. Pre fill the filter. The guys with new trucks can chime in, but I bump the starter with a screw driver with the ignition off (2-3 times, let the starter cool inbetween) to get oil circulating through the turbo. Also, try to get your fuel from high volume stations to limit the chance of contamination. <br><br>

GrandpasRam

They always used to leave them idle because of the old &quot;air starters&quot;, which didn't have a lot of oooommmppphhh, so they just left them running. The problem with that has always been that low idle has not enough velocity in the exhaust to blow the parafins out of the exhaust system (eventually plugging it) and the diesel fuel will begin to get into the crankcase oil and dilute the oil (not good either). If running a hgh idler (around 1100 RPM), you may not see either of those conditions occur.<br><br>Concerning the oil changes, I have mine done at my dealer because I have a good relationship with them, and it costs me $65. This also leaves a proof trail for scheduled maintenance being done, if there ever is a need to claim warranty. I never had an issue on the old '99, and I doubt I'll have one on the current '03. As is true of any vehicle other than a lemon: proper adherence to scheduled maintenance with approved spec materials will almost always eliminate the risk of needing to claim warranty for mechanical failure.<br><br>Enjoy that new truck.

LonCray

Got my truck in October and had it thru the coldest winter VA has seen in years - never plugged it in once (and no cold front either) and never had a problem starting. Also haven't used any additives - I thought Cummins forbade them.

Redleg

i think they say you don't NEED additives, but they don't make the pump.

me4osu

Oil changes: <br>I do my own with Rotella. <br>Our engines have piston cooling gets that squirt oil on the underside of the piston crown. These jets have a small orifice and use prefilter oil from the oil pump to shoot at the piston. If there are any large particles in the oil, one of these jets can become plugged resulting in a siezed piston. That is why I strain every drop of oil poured into my engine, and I won't let anyone else add oil to it. Paint strainers or the funnels with the wire mesh work fine. <br>If you keep your reciepts for the oil and filters, that should suffice for your warranty. Check with your dealer.<br>Use Fleetguard Stratopore filters ONLY. <br><br>Fuel Additives: <br>I use Stanadyne Performance formula religiously in every tank. It and John Deere Summer formula have the best wear scar diameter test rating of all diesel fuel additives by Southwest Research. Here is a link to the test: Stanadyne Additives<br> You can get it online from Diesel Injection Service in Lubbock. DIS<br><br>Truck stop fuel is the best. If diesel is allowed to sit around for long periods, microorganisms grow in it. These bugs will plug your fuel filter and leave you stranded.

BigBlue

I think straining the oil might be a little overkill. I change my own with Rotella. Filter and 3 gallons of oil costs me $28 from O'Reilys. Versus $60+ to have someone else do it.

me4osu

[quote author=BigBlue link=board=10;threadid=14726;start=30#138479 date=1053013626]<br>I think straining the oil might be a little overkill. I change my own with Rotella. Filter and 3 gallons of oil costs me $28 from O'Reilys. Versus $60+ to have someone else do it.<br>[/quote]<br><br>I don't. I have seen piston siezure stories on the &quot;other&quot; site that when the engine was torn down there was a little piece of the foil blocking the cooling jet. It is cheap insurance to me. <br><br>What brand of filter do you use? O'Reilly's didn't sell Fleetguard, last time I checked.

BigBlue

I use Wix. The closest Cummins store is way out of my way. I know. I know. I should use Fleetguard but I don't want to drive way into town just to pick up an oil filter.

me4osu

[quote author=BigBlue link=board=10;threadid=14726;start=30#138489 date=1053014292]<br>I use Wix. The closest Cummins store is way out of my way. I know. I know. I should use Fleetguard but I don't want to drive way into town just to pick up an oil filter.<br>[/quote]<br><br>610E and Kirkpatrick is waaaay out of my way also. Get the 4-2-1 kit from Geno's. I figured it against the price plus tax, and it is a little cheaper than buying from Cummins.

Hoss

Can you not get this stuff at the dealership?

Hoss

[quote author=BigBlue link=board=10;threadid=14726;start=30#138479 date=1053013626]<br>I think straining the oil might be a little overkill. I change my own with Rotella. Filter and 3 gallons of oil costs me $28 from O'Reilys. Versus $60+ to have someone else do it.<br>[/quote]<br><br>Not saying I'm gonna go to the trouble of straining my oil, but as evidence to support goofball's claim I submit the following....from pg. 288 of my Owner's Manual:<br><br>CAUTION!<br><br>The filtering medium of other aftermarket filters may disintegrate. Debris from failed filters may plug the piston oil cooling nozzles, resulting in scuffed pistons and engine failure.

Shovelhead

Gee....does this mean we need a filter for the filter. ???<br><br>That would make it a filter filter.

Hoss

And if it's an aftermarket filter filter, you'll also need a filter filter filter.... ???

Luke S

Ha, Cummins Hoss. Never thought Id see the day where he bought a Dodge more less changed his name to Cummins Hoss My Ebay user name is Cummins Luke. I think I'll go by that over here, that sounds cool 8)