crobtex

I need someone to work on a 40+ year old electric central heating unit. I had a guy work on it all day today and now the blower motor will not come on. The unit is almost as old as him and he finally gave up.

I know I'll have to pay extra for New Years Day, but that's just the way it goes...........

I'm located in Richardson. 214-202-1470

BigIron70

Do you have a make or model number?

crobtex

Here's one you probably have not heard of: PT Electrical Products Model #PT-2-3-15-9.

I've searched everything I can think of on Google Search, but can find nothing. I do have an old schematic, but it's been worked on so many times, it's doesn't match the way it is now. The electronics in this thing consist of two sequencers, a fan relay and a small transformer, all of which I have replaced, and a limit switch on each coil. The guy today said he checked the blower motor and that it was good. I don't know how to check it to be sure. You can here the fan relay "click", but the motor does not come on.

Adaminak

Did he plug the fan back in after replacing/checking the relay?

crobtex

Yes, I pulled the fan assembly out and the wires are where they were when I replaced the motor last year.

crobtex

I did not replace the capacitor.

crobtex

Not cold compared to AK, but suppose to get down to 23* tomorrow night!

Guess I'll just go to bed and hope the New Year brings better results.

cbrahs

i just replaced my mother board in mine. then the fan would not come on. HVAC buddy came over and tested the power supply. it was dead. replaced power supply and bam. had heat. check the power supply charlie. good luck brother. bundle up

crobtex

"The electronics in this thing consist of two sequencers, a fan relay and a small transformer, all of which I have replaced, and a limit switch on each coil."

Thanks for the comeback, Chris. No boards or anything fancy in this old guy. I wish it was "plug-and-play".

crobtex

The info on the "squirrel cage" says it is a 240v unit, but the line in only has 120v. ???????

gadget.35-06

Sounds like he used a heat pump fan motor; they are usually 208/240V.

If the motor is actually a 208/240 the lead going to the neutral of the 120 needs to come off and go to the hot leg opposite the other one going to the motor. The strips ARE 240, correct?

Bark

I know this doesnt help for today but:: My Parents have a very old unit that croaked last week. The guy who installed a brand new unit filed the paper work and stuff for them to get some of the federal rebate money for upgrading. I know, doesnt help you at the moment but the new heatpump setup they got is going to pay for itself in time.

crobtex

Not sure what fan motor is in there but it was working before. The wiring has been "hacked". I'm not great at reading schematics, but I can tell that it is different than it was 40+ years ago. When the guy tried to wire it according to the schematic, it blew one sequencer and the fan relay. The sequencer and relay have been replaced.

scuzman00

Almost all electric furnaces I have ever seen require 208/230 volts single phase (residential). Take your meter up there and see between both wires that you have 240 volts. If for some reason you dont, check each leg to ground to see that you have 120 at both legs. If 1 leg is 0 then you probably have an OLD breaker in your panel that has gone bye bye and needs replacing. Older houses have FPE panels in them and the double pole breakers have been apt to fail on one leg.

Give it a shot, you might just need to reset or replace your breaker.

Gary

PS: FPE breakers may be impossible to find nowadays and you might be in for a shock when you do find one that you need.

crobtex

Thanks. I went back and checked it and I have 240v to the motor and top of sequencers. I can hear a buzz around the motor when the solenoid opens. Shaft is turning freely, so I'm thinking bad motor.