2 yrs ago I had a heat pump installed cause my outside unit crapped out after 30 yrs of use.
They told me then that the "A" coil was fine so we left the inside stuff.
The first winter it heated fairly well but not great. A couple of times the following summer it would blow hot air instead of cool. I could turn it off for a bit and turn it back on and it would start cooling. This past winter it quite heating at all. Called em out and it turned out that all of the heat strips were toast and according to the service guy it appeared that the reversing valve was stuck. It was late and he didn't have one on him so he unplugged the unit and just let the strips take care of heating for the night.
The next day a different guy came out. He started working on it before I got there but when I rounded the corner I found him bleeding off the freon. I asked about it and he said that the pressure was extremely high thus keeping the reversing valve from working properly. Hmmm odd but maybe that's possible. I know a little about A/C systems but not alot and certainly not alot about heat pumps.
Anyway after draining off the freon he got the unit heating but informed me that my inside unit is probably clogged and we'll most likely have more problems come summer time.
We'll yesterday I tried to run it on "cool". After about 30 mins of running I realized that it's getting hotter in the house. Checked the temp and sure enough it had climbed 4 degrees. I put my hand to the vent and it was blowing HOT air. Not room temperature but HOT. I suspect that the reversing valve is still not working.
So my question;
Are these folks just trying to bleed me or is it legit that I need to replace the inside unit?

 

Is it an R-22 system?

It sounds like your reversing valve is what's giving you all your problems, since that is what determines which coil is which.

The outdoor unit should still be under warranty...what brand is it?

Also, while the indoor coil may be fine, it is 30 years old and should have been replaced with the outdoor unit. Modern equipment doesn't work well with older units.

The proper way to determine refrigerant charge is to completely recovery all of the existing charge, pull a good vacuum, then weigh in the charge according to the system name plate. Then make adjustments with the unit operating properly.

 

Try A&D parts and suppies out of Wax they have always done me fair .

 

I'm pretty sure that it's an R22 system but not absolutely positive.
Yea the outdoor unit is under warranty but they charge a service charge....only the parts are free. I was not fully aware of that policy when they sold me the system.
The unit is a Trane. don't remember the model but I believe it was something like R13. I'm pretty sure I saw 13 on the tag just under "TRANE"

I guess they thought I would say no to the cost when they sold me the unit. I hate that....tell me what the costs will be and why, I'm grown and can make an educated decision if I know all o the factors involved.
Either that or they thought that they could make more money by installing the outside first getting some service calls in and then installing the inside unit later!!
I hope it's not the later cause that'll cost em my business and anyone who even mentions needing any A/C repair!!!

 

Thanks!!
I've got a buddy who is retired but does A/C repair on the side. He's going to come over and check out the system this afternoon. We'll see what he finds and go from there.

 

I hate hacks and scam artists.

 

What did you find out about this?

 

Sounds like you dont have any filters inline. Do you? Its a must. In the freon lines.

 

Well my buddy checked it out and verified that the reversing valve was bad. Said the guy probably got it to switch back in winter by bleeding off pressure making it easier to release. Now it won't switch at all.
Since it's a fairly costly fix he informed me to call TRANE directly and tell them how their certified installers has strung me along on this one to make sure it get's fixed right this time.
He felt like the only reason that they didn't replace the reversing valve the first time was so they could come back in the summer and hit me for another service fee and maybe sell me the interior portion, for an even higher service fee later.

I have no idea.

 

Sometimes you can rap on the reversing valve with the handle of a screwdriver and it'll unstick.

Don't beat the crap out of it, but it can't hurt to try to jar it loose.

 

He is 100% correct on telling you to call Trane directly.

 

If you make any changes, go with r417a. R22 is on its way out. I don't know the exact date, but it's right around the corner. I just replaced the compressor on my house I bought two years ago. The inside unit was replaced right before I bought it and was compatable with the new stuff. From what I understand it runs at a much higher head pressure and non compatable units can't take the pressure. If you skimp out now and keep it r22, the next time you have a leak and have to charge it with r22, you'll be sorry. Don't take what I say as gospel, but that's what my understanding is. Also, replace it with a 14 seer or higher and Uncle Sam will pay 30% of it up to $1500.

 

That's R-410A...

 

R-410a is the replacment refrigerant. It is a blended refrigerant which means it is made up of 2 different types of refrigerant. These two refrigerants have different operating characteristics which means that if you have a leak in your system, no matter how small, the refrigerant will leak one component more than the other and become imbalanced. Unlike in the days of old, the refrigerant charge will have to be completely recovered, then a completely new charge of NEW refrigerant will have to be installed (after the leak is found and fixed). The days of topping off a charge are OVER, so is cheap service charges. I am a licensed AC contractor here in Houston and dislike the new refrigerant. I have also read info that this new replacement gas has been found to have just as bad of an effect on the environment as r-22. Go figure that the greenies jumped the gun on this like they have on most other issues. Back to the original problem, BY ALL MEANS contact Trane's main office in your area and raise a stink. We (as contractors) have to be trained to install Trane high efficiency equipment, and the original contractor should warranty the original install of the new equipment for 1YEAR after installation. That means all parts and LABOR should be covered (except for normal wear and tear items like filters and belts). As far as a filter/drier, you should have one installed, but on a heat pump, they are special, to allow reverse refrigerant flow under the heating mode. If your old system was not a heat pump, the reversing valve had to be installed as new so it should be warranted.

Good luck with you warranty issue and make sure that you raise a stink with MOTHER TRANE if your contractor gives you any guff.

Gary

 

Yea we tried that. De-energized and re-energized while doing so as well.
It wouldn't switch.

Yep kinda like the switch from R-12!!!