Just picked up a new Honda Rancher ATV. As usual, no room in the garage. So I need to build a loft in the garage to store the atv on. It will sit about 48 inches high, and will be about 6ft by 6ft square. The goal here is to drive the atv up on this losft or platform, leaving storage underneath.

I have ramps to get the atv in the pick up so thats not a problem. My question is strength of the loft. The ATV weighs in at 560lbs, I am 200lbs, so I need to figure what size lumber for framing. I will do double thickness on outside edge of framing, and was thinking 12 inches on center, 3/4 inch plywood or a double layer of 1/2 inch osb?

2 sides of the loft will be attatched to walls, two sides will be open. I would like to span the entire 6 ft width of the two exposed sides with just a post in the corner so I can store things under the loft.

What size lumber should I use for support on the outside and what size on the inside? I was thnking double 2x6's on outside and single 2x6's 12 inches on center. The post would be a 4x4.

Any ideas? Thanks, KD

 

Personally I would go with 2x8's for the perimeter. And use glue and screws for the framework and bolts for the legs. A buddy of mine did the opposite, built a loft above his ATV to store coolers and such, and also can be used as a workbench.

MikeyB

 

2x6's would be fine for the perimeter, 2x4's @ 12"oc will carry the load and create a nice platform with one layer of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood. The two sides that attach to the wall you will want to drop the 2x6 down to create a ledger for the 2x4's to rest on top of. The other to sides I would use 2x4 hangers to get max clearance below. For the leg that is out in the open (asuming this is going to be mounted in a corner) I would use an assembly of 3 2x4's screwed together to create a saddle. The other 3 don't need much as they can be attached directly to wall and below 2x6's.

Man this really turned out long,
T398

 

Something off the wall but I keep my ATV in a old pickup bed thats out side and in the stake pockets i built up a wall an a roof with a angle to it so the snow dumps off just offering suggestion

 

I am a general contractor, specializing in framing. Personally I would not use anything smaller than 2X8's. Yes, 2X6's would probably hold it, and (no offense here) I wouldn't even consider 2X4's. 2X8's and go 16" o.c. no need to go 12" o.c. That's just WAY overkill. Then go either 5/8" or 3/4" OSB flooring, just make sure it's tongue & groove in case a tire ends up lining up over a seam. For the post, I'd go with a 4X6 and mortise the outside rim joists into it. This will provide the ultimate strength for the setup you are looking for. I know this is a little over built here, but I don't like getting called back to jobs because something collapsed or failed. Piece of mind for me is worth the extra hundred bucks it may cost to do this right

 

OK thanks guys, I like the idea of the 3 2x4's and create a saddle for the corner. Of course everything will be with screws. I would make sure al the seams of the decking material end up on a joist. Yes, I waste a little more that way, but problem is solved.

Hmmm 2x6's vs 2x8's, 2x4's vs 2x6's, tough call. I was thinking 12 oc due to the very small footprint of each tire when just sitting. I think I'll go 2x8's (double) on the outside, then 2x6's on the inside. Better safe than sorry. I don't think cost will be all that great of difference, but not really sure. It's been awhile since I bought lumber.

I just realized I do have a couple of actual thickness oak boards 2 inches thick by 8 inches wide (solid oak no knots) I could use for the outside free floating beams. Would one (single not double) of those be strong enough? (instead of two 2x8's doubled up). I only have the two pieces of oak. Then use the 2x6's on the inside. The oak is left over saw mill stuff from when I dropped an oak last winter and had a fireplace mantle made. They are long enough and are just laying around.

I would love to store other things on the loft besides the atv, but, below the loft will be my other toys (one harley, one triumph) so the atv will be a little easier to get up there than the bikes. Thanks for the help, KD

 

Dude, don't go 12" O.C., thats overkill! 16" will do fine...

As for the joists... 2x8.

Platform, 3/4 OSB T&G

Use Liquid nails on the joists and use 2" nails to shoot it down...

4x4 or 4x6 will work as posts...

Use joist hangers on the 2x8 for added strength and to prevent sagging...

Lag bolt the posts to the platform...

I'd also use a post on all 4 corners...

Maybe even add a few more...

 

Now that we have the real figures, here's how a real man would do it.

Build it out of whatever scrap you have lying around, cost: free.

If it collapses, apply liberal layers of duct tape.
Cost $2.00 of duct tape, $50 ER co-pay.

If it collapses again, visit Home Depot and get what you think will work.
Cost $20 of assorted wood, $50 ER Copay.

When that collapses, the wife calls in the professional.
Cost: $1,500, plus the $50 ER Copay, plus sleeping on the couch for a month.

Think of it as that $800 oil change that was posted in the humor thread.
(maybe more than $800, can't remember for sure)


phox

 

I like Jerry's method

 

Take pictures when you get done, I'm interesting in seeing this, I've often thought of the same thing.

 

Phox, you left out ungodly amounts of bailing wire!

 

You mean this one?

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ght=oil+change

 

I guess I was a bit off with my $800 estimate.


phox