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Broken Compressor pulley

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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 04:37 PM
  #16  
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I just checked the garage where I had the pieces/parts of a "blowed up" air compessor.
The flywheel on on the workbench was also a 3/4"
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 04:39 PM
  #17  
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Again, if all that's not correct is a 3/4 vs a 7/8 shaft hole, get the 3/4 shaft pulley and have it drilled out to 7/8" and the keyway recut.
I can't imaging that costing more than around $20
(or a sixpack if you can get one of the guys to do it "on the side").
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 05:36 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Shovelhead
Again, if all that's not correct is a 3/4 vs a 7/8 shaft hole, get the 3/4 shaft pulley and have it drilled out to 7/8" and the keyway recut.
I can't imaging that costing more than around $20
(or a sixpack if you can get one of the guys to do it "on the side").
Yea I may have to do that.
It's going to kill me to have to spend 78 bucks for a new flywheel plus the drilling and re-keying for a $50.00 compressor.
I have a drill press. Could drill it myself. Don't remember my tool sizes anymore but would it be wiser to use a reamer?
The bigger question is do the make reamers that steps from 3/4" to 7/8"?
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 06:43 PM
  #19  
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You'd still have to recut the keyway.
Heck, if you were closer, I'd hand you the one on the workbench.
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 07:18 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Shovelhead
You'd still have to recut the keyway.
Heck, if you were closer, I'd hand you the one on the workbench.
Yea I'm going to keep shopping around here....I bet I find one when I least expect it but thanks for the offer!!!
I really appreciate it!
I still plan to weld the broken one too.
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 08:38 PM
  #21  
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I would drill it out. then drill out and tap a set screw in what is left of the keyway after you bore it out. the shaft will have a slot for the set screw to seat into.

I'd just get a 55/64'' or 27/32" drill bit. It's not like its running a water pump and air conditioner. You can get it with a drill press no problem, cast drills really easy. Heck a new pulley is probably made in china anyway, which makes it that much easier to drill.

FWIW i would fix the old on first, unless you need your compressor to put food on the table and will run it 8 hours a day.
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 09:07 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by wyododge
I would drill it out. then drill out and tap a set screw in what is left of the keyway after you bore it out. the shaft will have a slot for the set screw to seat into.

I'd just get a 55/64'' or 27/32" drill bit. It's not like its running a water pump and air conditioner. You can get it with a drill press no problem, cast drills really easy. Heck a new pulley is probably made in china anyway, which makes it that much easier to drill.

FWIW i would fix the old on first, unless you need your compressor to put food on the table and will run it 8 hours a day.
Nah I'm not a wrench turner by trade. My education and first 25 yrs in the workforce I was but bailed from that and am now a desk jockey.
Still do most of my own work though and hate to not have good tools and equipment.
I have a compressor now in my shop garage. Thought I'd set this one up in the garage on the other end of the house. I have an air line that goes from one garage to the other. With 2 compressors tied together I'm hoping that my die grinder wont suffer from low CFM like it does now.
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 09:49 PM
  #23  
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I've seen JB weld do some pretty amazing stuff.

I think two compressors should be fine as long as they are isolated from each other. I could see your shut offs freaking out with dueling tanks and CFM rates!

Might be kinda fun to watch though!!!
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 10:20 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by wyododge
I've seen JB weld do some pretty amazing stuff.

I think two compressors should be fine as long as they are isolated from each other. I could see your shut offs freaking out with dueling tanks and CFM rates!

Might be kinda fun to watch though!!!
Hmmmm,
My intent was for them to work together on the same system.
I did find this pulley. Slightly smaller so the compressor would spin a bit faster. Don't know how much faster though.
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 05:28 AM
  #25  
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WP usually stands for Working Pressure.

The compressor repair shops that I get parts from have a rather large graveyard you have to go past just to get to the front door, wouldn't think used parts would cost much when they are in a scrap heap.

There should be a name and part number somewhere on the housing, sometimes a small tag.

You can also install an adjustable pitch drive pulley to compensate for the pulley ratio.

Jim
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 07:34 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Jim Lane
WP usually stands for Working Pressure.
Doh!!!

Originally Posted by Jim Lane
The compressor repair shops that I get parts from have a rather large graveyard you have to go past just to get to the front door, wouldn't think used parts would cost much when they are in a scrap heap.
I wish I could find one around here!


Originally Posted by Jim Lane
There should be a name and part number somewhere on the housing, sometimes a small tag.
I'll look again.


Originally Posted by Jim Lane
You can also install an adjustable pitch drive pulley to compensate for the pulley ratio.

Jim
That's another thought.
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 07:38 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by capt.Ron
Hmmmm,
My intent was for them to work together on the same system.
I did find this pulley. Slightly smaller so the compressor would spin a bit faster. Don't know how much faster though.
Circumference of pulley = Diameter * pi (3.1416). Calculate for both.

Old/new gives you the ratio. if the ratio is 1.2 then a normal operation of 200 RPM would be increased 20% -> 240 RPM. If you can find the compressor stats, there should be a range of RPM operation. Keep it within, or close and you should be fine. Heck you might even be able to make the compressor run more efficient.

I would put one way flow valves for both compressors prior to the 'dual' supply line. otherwise, you may not get the flow you are expecting. Unless the compressors are balanced very closely, one compressor will fill up the other. This will cause a cycling of the motors. Bad deal.
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 08:31 AM
  #28  
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Don't even consider just drilling it out. You need to do it on a lathe to have it operate properly.

Is the old one a V belt or Serpentine?

Is your old one cracked badly, or just a spoke broken. I would probably use Nyrod and just weld it up, perhaps hit it a bit with preheat, but I have welded a fair bit of cast with Nyrod and no pre-heat.
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 09:16 AM
  #29  
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Capt. Look at a company called Motion Industries. I know they have an office/whse here in Houston. As big as they are they have a websitel, motionindustries.com. If it is currently made, they have it or can get it as far as belts or sheaves go. Just get the model # off of the sheave you have in hand.

Gary
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 12:13 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by patdaly
Don't even consider just drilling it out. You need to do it on a lathe to have it operate properly.

Is the old one a V belt or Serpentine?

Is your old one cracked badly, or just a spoke broken. I would probably use Nyrod and just weld it up, perhaps hit it a bit with preheat, but I have welded a fair bit of cast with Nyrod and no pre-heat.
All 3 spokes are broke and the wheel it's self is broke in one spot.
It's a V-belt.
I'll post pics in a sec.
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