Broken Compressor pulley
Again, if all that's not correct is a 3/4 vs a 7/8 shaft hole, get the 3/4 shaft pulley and have it drilled out to 7/8" and the keyway recut.
I can't imaging that costing more than around $20
(or a sixpack if you can get one of the guys to do it "on the side").
I can't imaging that costing more than around $20
(or a sixpack if you can get one of the guys to do it "on the side").
Thread Starter
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From: Texas (DFW area)
It's going to kill me to have to spend 78 bucks for a new flywheel plus the drilling and re-keying for a $50.00 compressor.
I have a drill press. Could drill it myself. Don't remember my tool sizes anymore but would it be wiser to use a reamer?
The bigger question is do the make reamers that steps from 3/4" to 7/8"?
Thread Starter
I think I can... I think...
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From: Texas (DFW area)
I really appreciate it!
I still plan to weld the broken one too.
I wish I was as fine, as those who work the pipeline!
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From: Wyoming
I would drill it out. then drill out and tap a set screw in what is left of the keyway after you bore it out. the shaft will have a slot for the set screw to seat into.
I'd just get a 55/64'' or 27/32" drill bit. It's not like its running a water pump and air conditioner. You can get it with a drill press no problem, cast drills really easy. Heck a new pulley is probably made in china anyway, which makes it that much easier to drill.
FWIW i would fix the old on first, unless you need your compressor to put food on the table and will run it 8 hours a day.
I'd just get a 55/64'' or 27/32" drill bit. It's not like its running a water pump and air conditioner. You can get it with a drill press no problem, cast drills really easy. Heck a new pulley is probably made in china anyway, which makes it that much easier to drill.
FWIW i would fix the old on first, unless you need your compressor to put food on the table and will run it 8 hours a day.
Thread Starter
I think I can... I think...
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,264
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From: Texas (DFW area)
I would drill it out. then drill out and tap a set screw in what is left of the keyway after you bore it out. the shaft will have a slot for the set screw to seat into.
I'd just get a 55/64'' or 27/32" drill bit. It's not like its running a water pump and air conditioner. You can get it with a drill press no problem, cast drills really easy. Heck a new pulley is probably made in china anyway, which makes it that much easier to drill.
FWIW i would fix the old on first, unless you need your compressor to put food on the table and will run it 8 hours a day.
I'd just get a 55/64'' or 27/32" drill bit. It's not like its running a water pump and air conditioner. You can get it with a drill press no problem, cast drills really easy. Heck a new pulley is probably made in china anyway, which makes it that much easier to drill.
FWIW i would fix the old on first, unless you need your compressor to put food on the table and will run it 8 hours a day.
Still do most of my own work though and hate to not have good tools and equipment.
I have a compressor now in my shop garage. Thought I'd set this one up in the garage on the other end of the house. I have an air line that goes from one garage to the other. With 2 compressors tied together I'm hoping that my die grinder wont suffer from low CFM like it does now.
I wish I was as fine, as those who work the pipeline!
Joined: Dec 2008
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From: Wyoming
I've seen JB weld do some pretty amazing stuff.
I think two compressors should be fine as long as they are isolated from each other. I could see your shut offs freaking out with dueling tanks and CFM rates!
Might be kinda fun to watch though!!!
I think two compressors should be fine as long as they are isolated from each other. I could see your shut offs freaking out with dueling tanks and CFM rates!
Might be kinda fun to watch though!!!
Thread Starter
I think I can... I think...
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From: Texas (DFW area)
My intent was for them to work together on the same system.
I did find this pulley. Slightly smaller so the compressor would spin a bit faster. Don't know how much faster though.
WP usually stands for Working Pressure.
The compressor repair shops that I get parts from have a rather large graveyard you have to go past just to get to the front door, wouldn't think used parts would cost much when they are in a scrap heap.
There should be a name and part number somewhere on the housing, sometimes a small tag.
You can also install an adjustable pitch drive pulley to compensate for the pulley ratio.
Jim
The compressor repair shops that I get parts from have a rather large graveyard you have to go past just to get to the front door, wouldn't think used parts would cost much when they are in a scrap heap.
There should be a name and part number somewhere on the housing, sometimes a small tag.
You can also install an adjustable pitch drive pulley to compensate for the pulley ratio.
Jim
Thread Starter
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From: Texas (DFW area)
Doh!!!
I wish I could find one around here!
I'll look again.
That's another thought.
That's another thought.
I wish I was as fine, as those who work the pipeline!
Joined: Dec 2008
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From: Wyoming
Hmmmm,
My intent was for them to work together on the same system.
I did find this pulley. Slightly smaller so the compressor would spin a bit faster. Don't know how much faster though.
My intent was for them to work together on the same system.
I did find this pulley. Slightly smaller so the compressor would spin a bit faster. Don't know how much faster though.
Old/new gives you the ratio. if the ratio is 1.2 then a normal operation of 200 RPM would be increased 20% -> 240 RPM. If you can find the compressor stats, there should be a range of RPM operation. Keep it within, or close and you should be fine. Heck you might even be able to make the compressor run more efficient.
I would put one way flow valves for both compressors prior to the 'dual' supply line. otherwise, you may not get the flow you are expecting. Unless the compressors are balanced very closely, one compressor will fill up the other. This will cause a cycling of the motors. Bad deal.
Don't even consider just drilling it out. You need to do it on a lathe to have it operate properly.
Is the old one a V belt or Serpentine?
Is your old one cracked badly, or just a spoke broken. I would probably use Nyrod and just weld it up, perhaps hit it a bit with preheat, but I have welded a fair bit of cast with Nyrod and no pre-heat.
Is the old one a V belt or Serpentine?
Is your old one cracked badly, or just a spoke broken. I would probably use Nyrod and just weld it up, perhaps hit it a bit with preheat, but I have welded a fair bit of cast with Nyrod and no pre-heat.
Capt. Look at a company called Motion Industries. I know they have an office/whse here in Houston. As big as they are they have a websitel, motionindustries.com. If it is currently made, they have it or can get it as far as belts or sheaves go. Just get the model # off of the sheave you have in hand.
Gary
Gary
Thread Starter
I think I can... I think...
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Texas (DFW area)
Don't even consider just drilling it out. You need to do it on a lathe to have it operate properly.
Is the old one a V belt or Serpentine?
Is your old one cracked badly, or just a spoke broken. I would probably use Nyrod and just weld it up, perhaps hit it a bit with preheat, but I have welded a fair bit of cast with Nyrod and no pre-heat.
Is the old one a V belt or Serpentine?
Is your old one cracked badly, or just a spoke broken. I would probably use Nyrod and just weld it up, perhaps hit it a bit with preheat, but I have welded a fair bit of cast with Nyrod and no pre-heat.
It's a V-belt.
I'll post pics in a sec.




