Think this will work or do I need to make another pass?

 

How far inside the frame are you going to run the other piece of frame? As long as the inside piece transcends the weld by 2' in both direction and you put the cross member where we talked about I think you are golden and have more than what you would ever need.


Does the body you are going to mount have any type of mounting surface where you spliced the frames together?

If it does not then I would recommend you add a 3/8 plate centered and directly over the splice on the outside frame rail.

 

The inner piece of frame only runs 10" to either side of the farthest points of the cuts, top and bottom. I could go farther back, but forward there are suspension brackets in the way. I'd have to do *something* to space those brackets away from the frame to accommodate the extra inner channel if I went farther. And rearward I could only go another foot until I hit the end of the frame anyway.

As far as the body goes, I'm going to make a sub-frame assembly using a 2" X 4" X 1/4" wall tubing the full length of the frame from sleeper to the frame end, then place mounts about every 3 or 4 feet all along the sub frame tube all the way down the frame. These mounts will also be the brackets that hold the underbody tool boxes. They will weld to the sub frame tube and bolt to the truck frame. This SHOULD add some over-all rigidity I hope.

I was thinking of plating the outside of the frame as you suggested. I definitely will now!

 

You probably know this but here goes anyway.

I would gusset it like this,

scan0007.pdf


You will be supremely over built for what you are doing. Roll with confidence.

Nice job Scott.

 

Thanks Tim! That's what I'm going to do!

Does DOT still take a dim view of spliced frames or have they loosened their grip on uninformed beliefs?

 

Not sure of your exact point here, however, in my experience as long as there are no loose bolts or cracks you are good to go. I know for a fact that they look for rust around all fasteners, so as long as all bolts are tight and all welds are solid you should have no issues.

For your work standards you should have no issues. Do NOT sweat it.

Just make sure you weld the entire circumference of the gusset plate.

 

Scott before you gusset that thing I would plug weld that hole.

Second thing I would do it put a pass of LH on it and then take a sanding pad and take it down flush and smooth, no stress risers.

Sorry Im late to the party. Had work issues.

 

Oh and thats not too bad of a job for that archaic stick method....

 

Well, way back, (probably before you time!), when I was lengthening trucks a LOT, there were a few MSP CMV enforcement officers that were making a sport of taking trucks out of service that had had their frames altered under the guise that stretching a truck frame by means of cutting and welding was unsafe under any circumstance. I used to 'hide' the weld on the outside of the rail by grinding and painting, and on the inside by double framing. All my trucks passed and I used to smile to myself that these so-called 'experts' couldn't find the spot I had spiced. I've been away from it for so ling now tho, that I didn't know if things had changed or WHAT might have changed.

 

Yeah. Only it's NOT!

 

If that is wire feed I need to take a trip up there.

 

I thought he used a soldering iron.


Absolutely no worries like that any more in this state.

 

Ok before you get your sasqskivies in a wad, Im just giving ya hard time...

It looks fine Scott

 

Yes sir! Flux cored wire!

Well at least THAT is good news!

 

I don't wear 'em, so no worries there!