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Anybody Know Anything About Dishwashers?

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Old 07-25-2007, 08:43 AM
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Anybody Know Anything About Dishwashers?

Mine isn't washing at the moment . It is a GE Model# GLD4200L00BB and the pic is below. The problem was it was not getting any water to the system when I cut the power to look into it. I have checked every component for its resistance, but really don't know how to troubleshoot anything else. Please give me some tips if you have any and I've got some pics below to give you an idea of what I've done.

Here's the dishwasher:



And here's the underside:



Here's the piece that I guess is a electronic valve for the water? This is what I would guess would be the culprit for the problem but am not sure if the problem might be in the "brains" of the dishwasher either. Its resistance is 1028ohms which to me seems a little high?





Here's the part that I guess forces the water out when its throught with the cycle. Its resistance was 26.4ohms.





And here's this big mother. I got a resistance of 9.6ohms on the blue plug, but nothing on the two small ones below it.





Also I got a resistance of 16.0 ohms on the bottom two plugs that are on the bottom of the first picture. I think these go to the heating elements not sure though.

Got any suggestions?
Old 07-25-2007, 09:25 AM
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mine also isn't washing at the moment. i have the girlfriend model, ver. 7.0, and am wondering if it doesnt need replaced, or at least a serious tune up. water, soap, sponges, and all other items check out and appear to be in ample supply. its just the scrubbing, rinseing and drying cycle that seems to be giving me trouble. please help, the dishes are piling up, and i don't know what to do.
Old 07-25-2007, 10:01 AM
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I had one that did the same thing, I just used the sprayer from the sink to fill it up with hot water and it worked fine. I finally replaced it with a Maytag and its been flawless. I threw the old one away.
Old 07-25-2007, 10:12 AM
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My only advice would be to get that water valve on the intake. Usually that part does not cost much at all (no more that $25). Also, when you order the part it might state the olms it requires. Anyways, thats just my 2 cents.
Old 07-25-2007, 12:10 PM
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Hook 110V directly to the valve and see if it fills, if it does the valve is good.

Check your water level float too, sometimes they get hung up and it thinks it's already full of water. It's at the left front of the floor, you'll see a microswitch on the underside with a linkage going up to the float dome.

Here's the valve info.

Make GEH
Part WD15X10003
Description
WATER VALVE INLET
On Hand 52
Price $27.51
Retail $48.40

I have an account to look up schematics/part breakdowns, but if you go to Sears Parts you can type in just about any brand of appliance model number and look up parts and exploded views.

http://www3.sears.com/
Old 07-25-2007, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by drafalske
I had one that did the same thing, I just used the sprayer from the sink to fill it up with hot water and it worked fine. I finally replaced it with a Maytag and its been flawless. I threw the old one away.

cheapskate, I think he is referring to your problem.....
Old 07-25-2007, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by steelblitzkrieg
Hook 110V directly to the valve and see if it fills, if it does the valve is good.

Check your water level float too, sometimes they get hung up and it thinks it's already full of water. It's at the left front of the floor, you'll see a microswitch on the underside with a linkage going up to the float dome.

Here's the valve info.

Make GEH
Part WD15X10003
Description
WATER VALVE INLET
On Hand 52
Price $27.51
Retail $48.40

I have an account to look up schematics/part breakdowns, but if you go to Sears Parts you can type in just about any brand of appliance model number and look up parts and exploded views.

http://www3.sears.com/

What he said. Had the switch for the water level go out on mine. If it isn't the water level switch, or the valve, chunk it...it'll cost more than a new one to fix.
Old 07-25-2007, 12:23 PM
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Sorry - back on topic, I don't know much about them, but was just going to suggest checking the water level float as someone already stated.
Old 07-25-2007, 12:39 PM
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GLD4200L00BB retails for around 429.00 and his looks pretty new so I wouldn't toss it that easily. Does it light up (if it has lights), also check the door switch if the valve and float check okay, door switches are a rare failure on GE, but if it has failed it will think the door is open and won't run, will it cancel/drain?
Old 07-25-2007, 01:34 PM
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Thanks for all the replies guys. I also remember the last time I tried to wash anything with it the soap dispenser door didn't open. I don't know if that helps or not.

Also, it does light up (its all push button) but thats about it.

Yeah, the dishwasher came in my brand new house I bought a year and 10 days ago. I just got off the phone with the guy that sold it to me and he said after I call GE and his distributor if all else fails he'll hook me up, so that's a good sign...
Old 07-25-2007, 01:37 PM
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Most GE hot water valves have an internal screen to prevent internal calcuim build up. Remove the 4 screws attaching the valve and check the screen. It may be a clogged screen caused from build up.
Old 07-25-2007, 01:45 PM
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No water, no soap...

Most D/W's work on a bimetal setup. The soap cup is locked and will not release unless there is enough of an amp draw across the bimetal to warp it and release, it gets the high amp draw through the motor, when the motor is pushing water there is resistance that causes the Amp draw to increase. When you have no water or not enough water the pump has no resistance.
Old 07-25-2007, 03:32 PM
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My dishwasher is always mad, and yells alot... I need a quiter model

Hondo
Old 07-25-2007, 03:35 PM
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I am my dishwasher.
Old 07-25-2007, 06:18 PM
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Check the door latch switches. They are small micro switches that break easily and if one of them isn't working, the unit may not function. Just replaced them on mine last month.

Different brand washer but they are pretty similar in how they are made up.


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