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Adding a beavertail(dovetail) to a gooseneck

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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 07:51 PM
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Adding a beavertail(dovetail) to a gooseneck

So I found a killer deal on a 20ft gooseneck(1500$) and the thing looks like new. The issue, it does not have a beavertail on the back. My question is I'm a decent welder, is this something I could just add, any suggestion on the way to go about it, basically I want the advantage you have with being able to have less ramp angle.

also suggestions on the best place to buy a gooseneck hitch for a 98.5
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 07:57 PM
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You could add it on, but it'd be easier to cut the frame and drop it to an angle if there's enough room after the rear spring hangars.

chaikwa.
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by chaikwa
You could add it on, but it'd be easier to cut the frame and drop it to an angle if there's enough room after the rear spring hangars.

chaikwa.
could I just go like two feet back and then add an extension.
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 08:19 PM
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I agree with chaikwa. I would rather do that if possible over any kind of extension.
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 08:25 PM
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If its an I-Beam I would sugest wehat Chaikwa has. Box frame wouldn't be to bad to add an extension on but they are generally used on RV's
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 08:54 PM
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not tryiung to be a but since you had to ask if it was possible I hope you aren't planning a "do it yourself" project, find a couple of "good" welding machine shops, tell them what you want and get bids comparing the "how" to the cost; have them include a materials description so that you can compare the type and sizes of the steel being used

not done correctly you'll turn your $1,500 bargain into the value of scrap metal

good luck and you should end up with what you want for $2,250 to $2,500 which includes the $1,500 cost of the trailer

Last edited by Totallyrad; Dec 16, 2009 at 09:32 PM. Reason: s/l
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Purplezr2
So I found a killer deal on a 20ft gooseneck(1500$) and the thing looks like new. The issue, it does not have a beavertail on the back. My question is I'm a decent welder, is this something I could just add, any suggestion on the way to go about it, basically I want the advantage you have with being able to have less ramp angle.

also suggestions on the best place to buy a gooseneck hitch for a 98.5
I'll just offer a tidbit if I can since I don't know your welding experience. In order to add to or modify the trailer in the manor you described, you'll have to do a bit of vertical welding. Speaking about myself, I haven't done it enough to rely on my abilities. If you're not proficient at it, I'd pass that to someone who is.

As far as the hitch, I'd suggest a B&W turnover ball. On my truck it's rated for 30k gross, 7.5k on the pin.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 09:15 PM
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Chaikwa has potentually the easy way to do it. Trailers are built with axels in a spicific relation to the hitch for tung weight. if you add to the rear, depending on what its built out of you could be throwing your weight off.
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by ArkansasRam
Trailers are built with axels in a spicific relation to the hitch for tung weight.
On your 20' trailer, below is my 20'er. The deck is 20' and the dove is 5'. If yours is 20' deck with no dovetail, the axle is not in the same position. I'd vote for notching the frame behind the rear spring hander and angling it down.

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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 07:41 AM
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If you go to a few places that sell trailers a lot of the 14000 do not have the frame notched and "bent" down. the dove is added on. We have added to several but ALL had to have the axles moved. Axle position on most trailers is 60/40. 60% of the total length in front and 40 behind the center point of the 2 axles. I would be all over a well built 20ft gn for 1500 bucks dove tail or not.
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by smoking
If you go to a few places that sell trailers a lot of the 14000 do not have the frame notched and "bent" down. the dove is added on.
Yes, because from a production standpoint, it's quicker and cheaper. I too have added them on as someone's after-thought, but I don't like doing it that way.

chaikwa.
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 09:11 AM
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If you were closer to Missouri I would take a look at it and try to help you! I teach welding and project construction. If you get me a couple of photos of the trailer and its back end I can make some suggestions to you. If it is an I-beam frame I know of some real slick tricks to add on to it. Let me know if I can help.
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 03:33 PM
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From: Home: Kaplan, LA - Pipelining In: Pecos, Tx
Originally Posted by chaikwa
You could add it on, but it'd be easier to cut the frame and drop it to an angle if there's enough room after the rear spring hangars.

chaikwa.
Ditto to this. When we dovetailed my uncles 40' we cut a wedge out of the back frame (I beam frame) and heated and worked the top of the beam down. Layed grating over the dovetail part and used the wedge that was cut out as a pattern and for one side of the ramps.
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 04:53 PM
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If anyone actually ends up doing this, I have a graph I can email that shows the wedge that can be cut out and how many inches of wedge will make how many degrees of tail angle depending on the height of the beam.

Oh, and just so the southern boys don't confuse you too much, it IS called a beaver tail! <I'd click the laughing smily if the smilies were working!>

chaikwa.
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Old Dec 24, 2009 | 12:11 AM
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I would add pictures to this thread if I knew how, as for the math involved that should not be an issue(I have a math minor). I still have not decided what I want to do, that reason for want a beaver tail is for easier loading of cars, tractors, or stuff.
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