My truck has no traction what do I need?
#16
Traction device in the front NO NO unless selectable or CAD disabled. Truetrac is NOT a locker. It's a helical gear positraction. Do a search and you'll probably find some of my tirades on traction devices. I've played with them a bit.
The only really easy solution is the rear. From easiest to hardest:
1. rear Lunchbox Locker (aussie, lockright ezlocker) replaces side and spider gears. VERY VERY easy to do. Install with the axle on the ground. Pull shafts, cover, and carrier caps. Blast off ring gear, pop out pin and gears. Replace with locker. Put it back in. If it was really hard to get the carrier out, you may need a spreader or a thinner shim, but for the most part it's pretty easy usually.
2. Full case posi or locker same thing as above, but additionally you will need to install new bearings (or a splitter and press to reuse your old ones), and have shims to set backlash. Getting a little trickier.
3. Selectable front locker. You'll have to take nearly the whole axle apart to get the carrier out, and backlash will need to be set.
4. CAD disable or delete + locker or posi. plumb vac to keep CAD constantly engaged. If the dummy light drives you nuts get the shifter switch from a precad transfer case and wire it to your dash light. But with the CAD always locked in you can now run any traction device in the front. The easiest install will be a lunchbox locker, and full carriers will need backlash adjustments and carrier bearings put on.
Last would be upgrade to 35 spline fronts and freespins so the locker doesn't break your stock 32 spline shafts, and perhaps 35 spline outers-some freespin kits come with 30 spline outers so beware.
Best bang for buck is traction in the rear first as that's where you'll lift a tire first. Open diffs drive both tires, but when the bias of torque exceeds the traction available, and the traction on one side drops below 1/3 of the other side it begins to spin a "one legger". Flat ground on slick surfaces they usually spin all four.
Posis handle slightly funky-especially if very tight. Ratchet lockers handle quite funky. you know they are there! The exception being a lunchbox locker when in the front axle. In 2wd they are virtually invisible. Even with the hubs locked in.
PS if you get as far as freespin kits I'd look at Ford knuckles and inners and get a locker with 35 spline sides, but the seal location might become an "issue". The Ford outers on the correct years (can't remember which) will fit the dodge inner. Pirate has a pretty solid fully illustrated (and cute!) write up on this conversion.
The only really easy solution is the rear. From easiest to hardest:
1. rear Lunchbox Locker (aussie, lockright ezlocker) replaces side and spider gears. VERY VERY easy to do. Install with the axle on the ground. Pull shafts, cover, and carrier caps. Blast off ring gear, pop out pin and gears. Replace with locker. Put it back in. If it was really hard to get the carrier out, you may need a spreader or a thinner shim, but for the most part it's pretty easy usually.
2. Full case posi or locker same thing as above, but additionally you will need to install new bearings (or a splitter and press to reuse your old ones), and have shims to set backlash. Getting a little trickier.
3. Selectable front locker. You'll have to take nearly the whole axle apart to get the carrier out, and backlash will need to be set.
4. CAD disable or delete + locker or posi. plumb vac to keep CAD constantly engaged. If the dummy light drives you nuts get the shifter switch from a precad transfer case and wire it to your dash light. But with the CAD always locked in you can now run any traction device in the front. The easiest install will be a lunchbox locker, and full carriers will need backlash adjustments and carrier bearings put on.
Last would be upgrade to 35 spline fronts and freespins so the locker doesn't break your stock 32 spline shafts, and perhaps 35 spline outers-some freespin kits come with 30 spline outers so beware.
Best bang for buck is traction in the rear first as that's where you'll lift a tire first. Open diffs drive both tires, but when the bias of torque exceeds the traction available, and the traction on one side drops below 1/3 of the other side it begins to spin a "one legger". Flat ground on slick surfaces they usually spin all four.
Posis handle slightly funky-especially if very tight. Ratchet lockers handle quite funky. you know they are there! The exception being a lunchbox locker when in the front axle. In 2wd they are virtually invisible. Even with the hubs locked in.
PS if you get as far as freespin kits I'd look at Ford knuckles and inners and get a locker with 35 spline sides, but the seal location might become an "issue". The Ford outers on the correct years (can't remember which) will fit the dodge inner. Pirate has a pretty solid fully illustrated (and cute!) write up on this conversion.
#17
Registered User
Go with a locking hub conversion first, then put a Lockright in the front. No special gear setup required. There's a few different ways to go about it using Ford parts on the Dodge housing. I've had a hand in getting 4 different 95-99 trucks converted. 2 of those guys drive their trucks daily.
If you have an open diff in the rear, you can Lockright that too. If its posi, the Lockright doesn't fit, so you might as well get the Detroit from the get-go.
I have both ends locked in my F350 (selling shortly). I'll be doing the same on my 'new' w250.
If you have an open diff in the rear, you can Lockright that too. If its posi, the Lockright doesn't fit, so you might as well get the Detroit from the get-go.
I have both ends locked in my F350 (selling shortly). I'll be doing the same on my 'new' w250.
#18
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Anyone have any experience with the Auburn Gear ECTED Max that works as a limited slip differential when dis-engaged and as a full locker when engaged via a dash mounted switch ?
This sounds like what I have in my jeep rubicon in the rear, works great in the jeep and was thinking about the same type set up for the RAM. This is the only unit I have located that works as a LS & a locker for the truck.
Any experience ? comments ?
This sounds like what I have in my jeep rubicon in the rear, works great in the jeep and was thinking about the same type set up for the RAM. This is the only unit I have located that works as a LS & a locker for the truck.
Any experience ? comments ?
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Anyone have any experience with the Auburn Gear ECTED Max that works as a limited slip differential when dis-engaged and as a full locker when engaged via a dash mounted switch ?
This sounds like what I have in my jeep rubicon in the rear, works great in the jeep and was thinking about the same type set up for the RAM. This is the only unit I have located that works as a LS & a locker for the truck.
Any experience ? comments ?
This sounds like what I have in my jeep rubicon in the rear, works great in the jeep and was thinking about the same type set up for the RAM. This is the only unit I have located that works as a LS & a locker for the truck.
Any experience ? comments ?
#21
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I think they use an electric locker as well as does the powerwagon I think.
I'd use the powerwagon parts on a 3rd or 4th gen. I don't think the 2nd gen had the AAM axle though.
I'd use the powerwagon parts on a 3rd or 4th gen. I don't think the 2nd gen had the AAM axle though.
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#26
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Red .... is the power wagon rear a limited slip along with a locker ? That is what I am really looking for, just like the jeep rubicon has in the rear.
Thanks
Thanks
#27
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Its apparently called a TracRite E-locker... and it comes in the 9.25" and 10.5" (not 11.5") axles used in the Hemi Powerwagons. Found some threads on it:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...r-t230011.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=868000
I've driven the last two years with lockers both ends ('95 F350 w/Lockright and Detroit) and driven mostly to/from work plus the odd camping trip. Not a big deal. My W250 is getting a lockright as soon as I change the oil in the front diff.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...r-t230011.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=868000
I've driven the last two years with lockers both ends ('95 F350 w/Lockright and Detroit) and driven mostly to/from work plus the odd camping trip. Not a big deal. My W250 is getting a lockright as soon as I change the oil in the front diff.
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I love the setup in my signature. I run on logging roads a lot of the time. When I have to lock the front hubs which is rare the Truetrac's spin all four tires. I should says it throws roosters Listen to the people who have them or other locking units as true lockers can be a pain. Air lockers are also nice as I have them in my jeep that is heavily moded with a LT1 and Muncie. For work the Truetracs in my dodge work truck work when needed but don;t have any quirks on the road like some true lockers.
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