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Building a diesel truck for offroading

Old 06-04-2006, 12:27 AM
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Building a diesel truck for offroading

I have a '94 2500 CTD auto 4X4 RC/LB
330hp Bosch Injectors
Injector pump rebuilt and turned up
#8 banks fuel plate
dual straight piped 5" exhuast
K&N stage 2 intake
dual optima batteries
Suncoast triple lock billet aluminum torque converter
Suncoast rebuilt tranny w/ extreme duty rebuild kit
Suncoast extreme duty valve body
4.10 dana spicer gears
10" skyjacker/custom lift
38X15.50 R18 TRXUS STS tires w/ 2" spacers

That's what I got now. This truck won't be a daily driver, it's main purpose will be for offroad recreation. I want it to be a great all-around truck. A little bit of pulling at a local event, or with buddies, towing my boat to the lake, having some offroad fun, or a little racing to show what a 7000 pound diesel truck can do.

Here's some items that come to mind, that I want to do to the truck, over time of course:
44X18.50 R16.5 tires on beadlock rims for offroading (need more lift i realize)
front and rear bumpers (front mounted hidden winch)
skid plates
Compound turbos
hydro-assist steering

Goal for engine is 500RWHP and 1000 ft/lbs torque.

Just wanted to give an idea of where I want to go as far as modifying this truck.

If you had to design the ultimate truck for the examples I mentioned earlier, what would it be like?


Thanks for the ideas
Old 06-05-2006, 01:58 PM
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I like the way mine is coming along so far, I got 40 inch Iroks, beadlock wheels, 4.10s, ford front D60 axle, custom steering setup, DT track bar, 6 inch d*ck cepek lift, Atlas rear leaf springs, shackle flip, stainless brake lines, Trailready front bumper, Speedliner on the whole truck, a few engine mods, K&N, straight pipe, 100 plate, GSK, pinched wastegate. my plans for future are a roll cage, custom rear bumper and sliders, Twins, GB tranny, lockers, winches, some belly protection, on board air, etc.
Old 06-05-2006, 05:23 PM
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My truck is similar to lances except I have a dodge d60 trussed upper and lower and its open and the skyjacker arms. I dont know how much you really wheel your current setup but I have never ran into hard clearence problems which would need larger tires and so I downsized my tires. My friend put hydro assist on his ram it it works great, I highly recomend it if you are going to wheel hardcore. Our trucks do great, the only thing that has ever limited me are weight (heavy diesel) and how large my truck is.
Old 06-06-2006, 04:08 PM
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You're paying a lot of attention to your motor. Don't forget a big front winch bumper + 1000# diesel + 1000lb tq + 44's = totally grenaded front axle shafts. The first thing I would do is upgrade with some usa alloy or superior 35 spline end to end and some 300m u joints. Pay now or pay later.

Don't forget lockers.
Old 06-09-2006, 04:20 PM
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I'd stay around 40's if I were you.......they will clear most obsticles on the trail but still keep you somewhat lower to the ground..........big tires and a tall truck gets kinda tippy when crawling over rocks. Also if you plan on pulling and racing and stuff like that, 44's are just too dang big for doing stuff like that IMO.

And like yarddog said......will them big meats on there trying to put some big power down.......you are gonna break more times than not unless you throw in some 2 1/2 ton military axles.......and then you'll be good!!!!



~Nick
Old 06-09-2006, 05:00 PM
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Just steer clear of the rocks all together and keep with the mud. If you wanna crawl by a smaller rig. Have you thought of hacking a few feet out of the middle of the frame and flat beding it?
Old 06-09-2006, 06:11 PM
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You never mentioned what diffs you have, if you can't get traction to the ground (open diffs), you are going nowhere. Larger front axles will be in order. Axle truss will be necessary, especially with our 3 piece design . Stronger control arms will be needed if not already installed from the lift. The higher you lift the truck, the more power you lose due to the angle of the driveshafts. With real high trucks, things disappear quickly as you approach them.
Old 06-12-2006, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Baja
Axle truss will be necessary, especially with our 3 piece design
Very true, I bent mine in 3 places. At the CAD and both places where the tubes went into the diff. Truss it before it bends. In some of my pics you can see the truss if you look close enough. Its trussed on the bottom and the top.
Old 06-12-2006, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by CSAGrey1
Just steer clear of the rocks all together and keep with the mud. If you wanna crawl by a smaller rig. Have you thought of hacking a few feet out of the middle of the frame and flat beding it?
a diesel wouldnt be my first choice in mud either.
Old 06-12-2006, 07:15 PM
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Figured I should be alright if I stick to hard trails, rock crawling, and a little light mudding.
Not to sound too dumb but I take it axel truss is a way of reinforcing the axel? Could anyone elaborate a little more on this?
Thanks for the help
Old 06-12-2006, 10:18 PM
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Google "axle truss", there is a ton of info there that is a lot easier to read and learn about rather than trying to explain it here. Go from there.
Old 06-13-2006, 03:03 AM
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Originally Posted by budd
Figured I should be alright if I stick to hard trails, rock crawling, and a little light mudding.
Not to sound too dumb but I take it axel truss is a way of reinforcing the axel? Could anyone elaborate a little more on this?
Thanks for the help
Here ya go, this is mine after my buddy and I finished it.

Old 06-15-2006, 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Baja
The higher you lift the truck, the more power you lose due to the angle of the driveshafts.
Huh???
Old 06-15-2006, 06:29 PM
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The best power transfer is along a straight line. Stock, 2WD, the transmission is about the same level as the differential. The driveline is straight between the two. Lift the truck and you lift the transmission, the driveline is now at a steep downward angle to the differential, depending on the lift. The higher the lift, the more loss of power, also very hard on the "U" joints. Take a ratchet, 12" extension and socket and put it on a bolt, check how easy it is to put torque to the bolt with everything in line. Put a universal on the socket, another on the ratchet, move the ratchet off line 6" and see the difference. If you want some of your power back, rotate the rear end so the diff yoke is in line to the transmission, not easy to do.
Old 06-16-2006, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Baja
The best power transfer is along a straight line. Stock, 2WD, the transmission is about the same level as the differential. The driveline is straight between the two. Lift the truck and you lift the transmission, the driveline is now at a steep downward angle to the differential, depending on the lift. The higher the lift, the more loss of power, also very hard on the "U" joints. Take a ratchet, 12" extension and socket and put it on a bolt, check how easy it is to put torque to the bolt with everything in line. Put a universal on the socket, another on the ratchet, move the ratchet off line 6" and see the difference. If you want some of your power back, rotate the rear end so the diff yoke is in line to the transmission, not easy to do.
Right,... Okay,...

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