MD Chapter #33 Never Ending thread #VII
yeah i finished up a little after 10pm last night i have to say my rpms dropped some i can now run 75 at 1800 rpm. egts are down about 100-150 and i can hardly hear the truck running going down the road. it was temping but i behaved myself this morning never went above 2000 rpm
i have looked at the setup some guys have done on thier truck and they don't seem that hard to set up. question is if you remove the leaf springs and run only the air bags would the weight of the truck plus the tongue weight of the trailer be to much for the air bags?
i dont know? they make pretty big bags, but i still wanna lower it a little. i was looking at doing a flip kit but it sayd i need a c notch. i went and measured it and it would be 6" drop, i would still have 2" between the axle and the frame. if i add the bags i dont see a problem with the frame hitting the axle. any comments or concerns is greatly helpful
Bobby, Matt has a complete airbag setup. I believe it is a Firestone "RideRite" kit. It is for a F450-550 but other then the brackets everything else should work. He had mentioned awhile back about wanting to get rid of it, I'll ask him if he still wants to sell it if your interested. I know it has never been installed.
Whats the rules on all these dam scooters on the street??? I know if they are under 50cc they dont need tags...????right?? but whats the rules for helmets and anyones with more than 50cc. I am going to end up crushing one of those mother$%%^&&^% if they get in front of me again





you can not do a sring flip/spring under whatever you wanna call it and still be drivable let alone be set up for towing heavy. i dont care how much airbag you have, when you hit a bump that axle is gonna slam into the frame.
either C-notch the frame or dont go that low. you might be able to find 2-3" lowering shackles for the rear springs. if not you are gonna have to go all out with a 6-link airbag system. most likely with lower control arms and a single triangulated top link in front of the axle, and then behind the axle there will be like a trailing arm to the rear part of the frame. with an airbag between the frame and the arm. ill find pics of it later but it wont be cheap.
problem with lowering it is that you wanna tow with it. if you didn't wanna tow you could cheat a little bit, but being able to tow heavy and still be low is gonna need some high quality parts/fabrication.
edit:
here is a bolt on kit from air ride for 1-ton dodges. true 4 link with air bag on a bracket behind the axle.
either C-notch the frame or dont go that low. you might be able to find 2-3" lowering shackles for the rear springs. if not you are gonna have to go all out with a 6-link airbag system. most likely with lower control arms and a single triangulated top link in front of the axle, and then behind the axle there will be like a trailing arm to the rear part of the frame. with an airbag between the frame and the arm. ill find pics of it later but it wont be cheap.
problem with lowering it is that you wanna tow with it. if you didn't wanna tow you could cheat a little bit, but being able to tow heavy and still be low is gonna need some high quality parts/fabrication.
edit:
here is a bolt on kit from air ride for 1-ton dodges. true 4 link with air bag on a bracket behind the axle.
Thanks, im going to see whats going under there when it goes in for paint. they guy painting it builds suspensions for most of the drag cars in maryland or atleast southern maryland. he did my dads work and it works pretty good for him http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=klMuuZYBP80. and sounds like you hate low riders, rollin coal.
you put that tool box in yet?
you put that tool box in yet?
Booby I'll let you know, I am sure they are pretty heavy duty, the kit is for a 450-550 Ford and they are like 17,000GVW. I agree with RC if you want to tow and go real low it's gonna take some fabbin and a good bit of cash. You could do 2-3 inches without too much effort, but with pulling a gooseneck you will want a bit of safety margin before you get frame contact. You could go with a bit longer bumpstop, bit it will ride terrible if it is on the bumpstops all the time when towing.
The Alcoas look sweet, they are my favorite dually wheel and I think the look especially good on 2wd duallys.
The Alcoas look sweet, they are my favorite dually wheel and I think the look especially good on 2wd duallys.
bobby i think if your going to do it, do it right the first time and not kick yourself for cutting corners. even if it takes longer to do do it the way you want it the first time. we can always fab something if need be
got nothing against low riders (other than freaking idiots who thinks its cool to drop the air out of the bags at 60mph and lay frame on the highway with sparks going everywhere and then wonder why they spun out and wrecked)
yeah i think thats pretty funny too. thanks for all the info, no corners will be cut here. my plan is to take the bed off do the rear swap, then cam and head, then paint while im doing paint fab the twins and bags. the last thing is putting the bed back on. in between all that see if i can find a sport frontend
while drinking alot of screwdrivers so try and get rid of the headaches
while drinking alot of screwdrivers so try and get rid of the headaches
Pictures from Leonards rebuild can be found here
http://s211.photobucket.com/albums/b...rds%20rebuild/
http://s211.photobucket.com/albums/b...rds%20rebuild/


