What's the symtom of a bad injector
What's the symtom of a bad injector
I'm not leaking any fuel into the oil, or have any kind of smoking issue. But it does seem like I have a mis, and a rough idle. My milage is down also. I've changed all the fuel filter's, and cleaned the air filter.
I've got a steathascope with a metal rod on it. When I listen to all the injector's, they all sound fine, except one. It sound's like it's hammering. But with out the steathascope, I can't here it making any noise, but I am hard of hearing. Would that mean that injector is bad.
Could I hook the truck up to a scan tool like you buy at Autozone and read the performance of the injector's. Or would I have to take it to the dealer. Could I change the injector myself, or need a shop to do it. What's a ball park price for 1 injector.
Any idea's. Thank's.
I've got a steathascope with a metal rod on it. When I listen to all the injector's, they all sound fine, except one. It sound's like it's hammering. But with out the steathascope, I can't here it making any noise, but I am hard of hearing. Would that mean that injector is bad.
Could I hook the truck up to a scan tool like you buy at Autozone and read the performance of the injector's. Or would I have to take it to the dealer. Could I change the injector myself, or need a shop to do it. What's a ball park price for 1 injector.
Any idea's. Thank's.
Usually places like autozone will run the codes for you for free. The only problem is that the code readers they have wont always show all the codes on a cummins. Try the key thing b4 you blow $400
No codes, interesting. When my #1 stick quit I think I got two codes, one for the bank and one for the stick. They may have been P2146 and 201 or 261, it was about 35k miles ago at 97,500 miles on the clock and my memory was younger back then. Replaced under warrantee (stick, not memory).
Symptoms at the beginning included an occasional miss, like a plug didn't fire on a gasser. It got progressively worse over a couple weeks till I got it in the shop (again, stick, not memory).
As far as codes, at the beginning there were no codes. The first time it tossed a code was at WOT getting on the freeway towing a lightly loaded trailer. I read the codes, cleared them and they didn't come back on till the next day, towing the empty trailer, but again at WOT. Read and cleared.
Codes came progressively more often and not under WOT till I quit driving it cause the stick quit. No fuel in the oil. I'm thinking of sending all the sticks to F1 to upgrade the nozzles next year. That will be sweet.
The only food I don't like is liver. I don't care how it is prepared. I don't like liver and onions, liver worst, liver cookies, liver pie, liver ice cream, liver and crumpets ... oh, wait, nevermind... another miss...
Symptoms at the beginning included an occasional miss, like a plug didn't fire on a gasser. It got progressively worse over a couple weeks till I got it in the shop (again, stick, not memory).
As far as codes, at the beginning there were no codes. The first time it tossed a code was at WOT getting on the freeway towing a lightly loaded trailer. I read the codes, cleared them and they didn't come back on till the next day, towing the empty trailer, but again at WOT. Read and cleared.
Codes came progressively more often and not under WOT till I quit driving it cause the stick quit. No fuel in the oil. I'm thinking of sending all the sticks to F1 to upgrade the nozzles next year. That will be sweet.
The only food I don't like is liver. I don't care how it is prepared. I don't like liver and onions, liver worst, liver cookies, liver pie, liver ice cream, liver and crumpets ... oh, wait, nevermind... another miss...
If you can find some one to diagnose this for you I would do it as soon as possible. If it is a bad injector and it is stuck open you can cook that cyl. It isn't like the 2nd gen 24 valves that have pop off injectors and only inject fuel when the pump pressurizes them. On the third gen trucks the rail is pressurized all the time and if you have a stuck open injector it gets fuel even on the compression stroke. I have seen a guy who hauls cars for a living melt down his number one cyl because he kept driving it. Not sure if you can do a buzz test on the Dodges like you can on the psd's but If it were me, I would find out before I had a totaled motor. Good luck.
Be carefull high rail PSI can KILL you as in dead !!! dont go neer the lines with a wrench. a stuck open injector would cause a miss and some smoking and if it is an 05 it will set a code
a stuck closed injector will cause the same miss or knock but with out smoke
and will set a code. is your fuel real diesel not veg or something else
find a fuel shop
a stuck closed injector will cause the same miss or knock but with out smoke
and will set a code. is your fuel real diesel not veg or something else
find a fuel shop
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Be carefull high rail PSI can KILL you as in dead !!! dont go neer the lines with a wrench. a stuck open injector would cause a miss and some smoking and if it is an 05 it will set a code
a stuck closed injector will cause the same miss or knock but with out smoke
and will set a code. is your fuel real diesel not veg or something else
find a fuel shop
a stuck closed injector will cause the same miss or knock but with out smoke
and will set a code. is your fuel real diesel not veg or something else
find a fuel shop
how much psi do they pull out anyways? i was hearing around 25 000 or something.
no codes n mine, but I had a heckuva rattle, knew what it meant from it happening when the first one went, only hear it at a constant peddle pressure, cruise on tooling down the higway, makes ya want to turn up the stereo so ya don't have to hear it, pretend it goes away. fair amout of white smoke on idle, and I did get the reflash for the white smoke prob when the truck was new. truck is in the shop now actually gettin #4 injector done, under warranty@ 50,400 miles
i think i may be haveing the same problem in #1 i can hear a slight knock ,when i put my figer on the line going to the #1 i can feel the knock in the line. Should i replace that injector? is it ok to replace just one injector? any opinions on rebuilt injectors? if i was going to replace and injector how do i go about it? Thanks!
the dealer is replacing one injector on mine, warranty use is good, they are expensive, you might want to take off some electronics, and see if the noise is still there, drive a few days see if it goes away, and then take it to a good dealer and let them replace it. that is unless you drove the wheels off it and are out of the 100 k mile warranty on the motor
only got 54000 on mine but already got turned down for warrenty on transmission and droped 2900 for that rebuild. rebuilt injectors are fairly inexspencive (sp) (i cant spell) so if i just have to replace one i would rather do it myself than some tech making pennys a day at the dealer
on this one I caught it in tieme, one helluva rattle, like a timing rattle from haites. at moderate throttle , but steady, if I was on it it would go away, cruise control set at 70 and I was turning the radio up so as not to hear it and be foced to cringe at the thought. the first one that let go completely 'rustproofed" the underbody of the truck, 8 gallons of fuel in ten miles through the motor and into the crak, out the vent.........
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3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007
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