How long did it take to unclench from the seat cushion?

 

Well, I'm not sure if something (else?) in the IP finally broke or it was me holding the brake with the truck in gear while it was spinning tires on the side of the road that triggered the shutdown. The engine was screaming and I was waiting to hear the tell-tale kaboom of catastrophic failure, but no unusual noises, it finally 'just shut-off'. I was expecting some bucking or something while I was trying to stall it out.

Does Chrysler or Cummins put manual fuel shut-off valve on our trucks? My buddy with an old Mercedes has one on his engine.

 

Yes it is a regular spring. I can not find any photos of the linkage. But If you follow the linkage from the front where the torsion spring is to the back where it connects to the pump. That 8in bar connects them. Look half way down that bar o------o Their is a bracket. One end f the spring goes their(non moving end) the other end hooks to the linkage at the rear of pump. I would pop off that bar and soak it in some motor oil. Their should be one othe small linkage bar hidden down their. This one is probably your main problem. Pop that one off and soak in motor oil. And then spray other linkage with some white grease. The dealer should also be able to give you a print out of the linkage. Oh and the little linkage bar is not covered under the recall. Ask me how I know this

 

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1997/18-29-97.htm

 

Can you take your hand and kick down the throttle? The truck may ot be starting because you have the throttle wide open. Grab that bar and see if you can kick it down.

 

Thanks BigDave.

I'm not near the truck right now, but I'm pretty sure my linkage is not oriented the way it in in Fig. 3.

The way I remember it, it was like the thing that pivots, on the left, was rotated all the way clockwise...where it says LIGHT PRESSURE THIS DIRECTION. When I said everything in the linkage 'looks good' I was rotating that arm counter-clockwise, and the 'return' (?) spring was bringing it all the way back clockwise. That seems to be its resting position now, perhaps that is WOT? I'll take a look tonight and snap a pic.
I wonder if I'm missing a bracket that should stop the CW rotation. I don't remember anything like the bracket on the RH side of the dashed arrow that the THROTTLE ROD MEASURMENT arrow is pointing to.

 

The dashed arrow seems to be showing movement. The other part of the linkage is down under the fuel filter. Not really easy to see but it is their. So follow the linkage bar down to the back part of the pump. You will see more linkage. Maybe the linkage bar popped off when it got stuck. The ends wear out so the bar falls off. So check the lower linkage.

 

This picture, Fig 11, only shows one spring, there should be two side by side

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/recalls/970/repair.htm

 

thanks for the link to TSB

 

Well when my new spring rotted out. They gave me a double spring to replace it. But I had a 94 so maybe the 98 12v is different. But it seems that sticky linkage is a problem on all of the 12v

 

makes me want to put a cable shut-off for a backup.

does anyone make a kit?

 

Wow thats one scary ride...
It shouldnt have allowed the motor to rev that high with only a GS3K in there. Also either the linkage is binding or theres something fishy going on inside. That fuel shutoff solenoid should have cut fuel with the ignition off regardless.

 

That was kind of my thought when the RPMs took off, I was expecting the fuel shutoff sol. to kill everything when I shut the truck down. When it didnt...that's when I started to get worried and I guess I turned the key one more to lock...then no steering and panic-mode began.

Anyways, I took a closer look last night. Disregard some of my statements I made above about the linkage; it all looks like the links posted yesterday. The throttle rod look connected on both ends, with the plastic ends. I should see about the recall and metal ends. The harness for WIF sensor(?) was near the throttle, I routed that out of the way, but I doubt that was it.

Its not starting at all. I'm concerned about the fuel shutoff solenoid. The rubber boot is gone, probably didnt help that the AFC was missing a bolt and oil was dripping down. How does this solenoid work? Should I pull it up or down to open up the fuel?

I'm reading as much as I can, but are there any links that give me a crash course in the basics of the 12V engine fuel delivery system?

 

Found it:
the Fuel Shutoff Solenoid in the run ( or pulled up ) position
http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechLeverAdj.htm

 

That would have scared the poop outta me!!