stuck at work in 4x4
stuck at work in 4x4
If someone can give me some ideas real fast. its 7:13pm and my dad is stuck at work 3hours away. He cant get his truck out of 4x4. Same truck as mine but with a 4.5" bds lift. And when he trys to drive it vibrates really bad and apprently he cant get it into 3rd gear. He has tride all kinds of backing up driving forwword. putting the t-case in neutral, low. high 2wd high 4wd. Any ideas anyway? I'm about to suggest cut the vacume line. maybe that will release it?
Thanks everyone
chris
Thanks everyone
chris
well he managed to get it out by turning the truck off and pushing it backwords. Any ideas as to why it wouldnt disingage? what should be looked at or replaced? And what caused this vibration?
Originally posted by Captain
well he managed to get it out by turning the truck off and pushing it backwords. Any ideas as to why it wouldnt disingage? what should be looked at or replaced? And what caused this vibration?
well he managed to get it out by turning the truck off and pushing it backwords. Any ideas as to why it wouldnt disingage? what should be looked at or replaced? And what caused this vibration?
is that how it works? lack of vacume is 2wd? vacume is 4wd? From the picture in the book. not that the book helped me any. It looked kind of like vacume through one port was 2wd and vacume from the other port was 4wd
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as far as the vibration, it may be an ice or snow buildup inside the wheel. While driving to work, the rotors warmed. When parked the heat melted any snow in, on or around the wheel and it drips down inside the wheel and re-freezes. Ive had a 3lb block build up in there after plowing with my Bronco. A 3lb wheel weight definitly throws the tire balance out
yeah I've had that problem befor witht he snow build up and vibration. But he said it felt like a front drive train vibration. And its was the first time he used 4x4 with the lift. I thought I heard someone mention something about the front driveshaft doing this on some lifted trucks?
One thing you can check is to see if the pinion yoke angle mathces the transfer case yoke angle, if they are not both at the same angle it can cause vibration. You may have to rotate the front diff.
I know on my 1992 with a 4" lift and with a 2 piece front driveshaft. It is important to make sure the driveshaft doesn't slide out of the front piece. Not sure about 2nd gen's if they are still 1 piece or 2 piece. On mine, I see some of the inner splines showing and was worried about it coming apart if hitting a big bump or when I plow. So far so good, but I only have maybe 1/2" or a little more where they come together. That might cause some vibration.
I did have problems with pinion angle. Took some testing to straighten that out by getting shims to rotate axles.
I did have problems with pinion angle. Took some testing to straighten that out by getting shims to rotate axles.
Originally posted by winkle
One thing you can check is to see if the pinion yoke angle mathces the transfer case yoke angle, if they are not both at the same angle it can cause vibration. You may have to rotate the front diff.
One thing you can check is to see if the pinion yoke angle mathces the transfer case yoke angle, if they are not both at the same angle it can cause vibration. You may have to rotate the front diff.
That only applies to driveshafts that have one u-joint per side. Most common the rear. The front usually has a CV joint which means the single (differential side) u-joint has to be as close to 0* as possible because there is no other u-joint on the other side to cancel out the vibrations. The two CV u-joints (transfer case side) are already busy canceling out eachother.
Captain, I dont know on the vacuum but that doesnt determine if the valve or solenoid is directing the vacuum correctly. I think its located at or in the transfer case. As for your vibration, if its harmonic then I'm sure you have a front driveshaft problem. Either a bad u-joint or the u-joints are at to much of an angle and/or the CV tabs are hitting. This all depending on how much lift.
Nutty.... Wow I'd be worried about a telescoping driveshadt that was only together by 1/2"???? WOW that's scary. How long has it been like that? I'd be affraid of it ccoming apart and the tcase end whipping around and smashing stuff.
I don't know... Just my thought. Maybe it's ok. Maybe there is actually more than that together.
If there was only that much I'd also worry that under heavy load you'd twist the splines out ot strip it.
Originally posted by KATOOM
That only applies to driveshafts that have one u-joint per side. Most common the rear. The front usually has a CV joint which means the single (differential side) u-joint has to be as close to 0* as possible because there is no other u-joint on the other side to cancel out the vibrations. The two CV u-joints (transfer case side) are already busy canceling out eachother.
Captain, I dont know on the vacuum but that doesnt determine if the valve or solenoid is directing the vacuum correctly. I think its located at or in the transfer case. As for your vibration, if its harmonic then I'm sure you have a front driveshaft problem. Either a bad u-joint or the u-joints are at to much of an angle and/or the CV tabs are hitting. This all depending on how much lift.
That only applies to driveshafts that have one u-joint per side. Most common the rear. The front usually has a CV joint which means the single (differential side) u-joint has to be as close to 0* as possible because there is no other u-joint on the other side to cancel out the vibrations. The two CV u-joints (transfer case side) are already busy canceling out eachother.
Captain, I dont know on the vacuum but that doesnt determine if the valve or solenoid is directing the vacuum correctly. I think its located at or in the transfer case. As for your vibration, if its harmonic then I'm sure you have a front driveshaft problem. Either a bad u-joint or the u-joints are at to much of an angle and/or the CV tabs are hitting. This all depending on how much lift.


