Rare1

A boost gauge isn't just a toy. It is the best overall instrument to tell you the health of your engine and your capability to make power. A low boost condition will affect your hill climbing ability and could be the result of other factors than just loose intake hoses. Without a boost gauge you are just guessing, and so is your mechanic. He should screw in a temporary to diagnose your condition and you should install one so you will always have the info you need. Happy New Year.

mx684

I checked those links..those were very helpfull..although i found no air in the lines...

I plan to get all the guauges...just havent got around to it quite yet....when i had a scanner hooked to it the mechanic drove it around with the empty enclosed trailer on it and he said the boost was normal..

PaulDaisy

If it is the tranny, changing the fluid and filter is not gonna help. If it is slipping, it will need a rebuild, or at least that is what I ended up doing. The reason for slippage was worn clutch packs, and once I put in the new ones all problems went away: started pulling like crazy and no shaking from slippage, when it was gripping and slipping in a rapid succession.
I sure wish you that it is something other than the tranny! Overhauling it is not a whole lot of fun.
-P

mx684

Im starting to wonder if thats my problem...Although when i had a scanner on it the mechanic said it was shifting normal and nothing seemed to be wrong with it. Im planning to put a 5 or 6 speed in it anyways, i dont like the auto and hear nothing but bad things about it....iv been looking for all the parts from salvage yards and once i get everything im buying a new manual tranny...or rebuilt...but i have kinda put all that on hold untill i find what this problem is...cause i dont wanna spend all the money and time and get a trannny in and findout i have sum sort of highdollar motor problem...cause i cant afford to do it all at once.. thanks again for everyones imput..

Clunk

I'd want to know the lift pump fuel pressure inna hard grunt.
Is the exhaust system in good shape...no kinks or closed up places?

Sootblower

About the only thing that will cause this in the transmission is failure of the "sprag clutch" on the rotor portion of the torque converter. It holds the rotor synchronous to the turbine shaft (transmission side)when power is applied for torgue multiplication when impeller (motor side)is faster than turbine(transmission shaft). It has absolutely no effect when torque converter lockup clutch is engaged. When sprag clutch fails there is loss of coupling between engine and transmission and the loss shows up as heat which you should see as burnt transmission fluid. Any slipping clutch packs in the tranmission itself would disintegrate within a seconds when high torque is applied.
Read about it here if you like:http://tpub.com/content/construction.../14273_159.htm Remember to click on "NEXT" top of page to get remainder of explanation.

I would think you would notice the problem by watching your tachometer. I do not recall the tach going more than 750RPM higher unlocked (compared to locked) under full throttle when sprag clutch is working okay?

Also when in OD off you will be in third gear with torque converter locked. You should be able to quickly decide whether there is any slippage in the lockup clutch by watching tach. The sprag clutch (whole fluid coupling in TC) is bypassed when lock-up clutch is engaged. Believe me - any slippage of clutch packs and bands will result in a failed transmission within a minute or so with full throttle applied. That is a LOT of energy going into a very small surface area producing major heat. Even slippage of the much larger torque converter clutch soon results in heat warpage of the torque converter housing. Severe shuddering is then often reported when locking up subsequent to the damage.

mx684

The exhuast is ok, nothing is restricting it.
Thats what is strange is the rpms dont move up very much, it dont really seem to be slipping...but the motor is loud and seems to be running strong, you can hear the turbo, its just not going anywhere.....
if it was a fuel pump or sumthing...could that cause it to run great empty, but under a load it sounds good and strong just doesnt have the power? or would not sound right if that was the case..??

bigwhite59

quickest way to determine the condition of your trans is to pull the dipstick and smell the fluid, if it's near toast or is toast, the fluid will smell very burnt, it will also be a dark brownish color. If there are any problems with the trans, from clutch packs slipping to sprags in the t/c broken, the fluid will tell.

PaulDaisy

+1 on the fluid color for diagnostics! It does turn real brown as opposed to nice red on a tranny with burned clutches.
I would eliminate all outside the tranny first, myself. Hook up the fuel pressure gauge, if the IP is starving I bet you would not have much power under load. This is a cheap and easy test!
-P

mx684

thanks again. i will try and get a guage and figure something out this week. what brand do you reccommend for guages/ a pillar mount??

PaulDaisy

Uh! Once you figure this one out, I will jump onboard. I haven't put any in yet, don't want to hijack the thread with this discussion... Let us know how the diagnostics go.
-P

Clunk

Check with the site sponsors...they're paying the bills here.
Some things are necessary & some are not but everybody has an opinion of what's what.
I believe in a mechanical fuel pressure gauge with a needle valve to dampen pressure pulses in the system but no isolator (a diaphram with fuel on one side and a harmless, nonflamable liquid like antifreeze in the other to transfer pressure energy to the gauge) to separate the fuel in the fuel line in the engine compartment from the liquid the gauge reads inside the cab. If the line suddenly burst, mine would only have a slow drip due to the nearly shut needle valve and I don't worry about isolator troubles. My lift pump fuel pressure gauge was given to me as a gift so I made up my lines & connections.
Some of the good people here have had good results with electric gauge kits and isolators too.

mx684

Well I think i have finally narrowed it down to the tranny...
I hooked the same trailer/load untoo a buddys 03 dodge with exhaust and a chip and from a dead stop stomping it to the ground it would lightup the tires and take off, then squeak them again when it shifted....when i did this in mine it shot out a bunch of smoke, revved to 2500-3000 rpms then slowwwwly started taking off and catching speed. so i guess im ready to get rid of this auto..

I found a website that was doing the nv4500 conversions..i emailed them and got the response that they no longer do them, but aside from everything i knew i would have to change, i do need to get a new computer or have mine "reflashed". can anyone tell me who to talk to about where to have this done, and what cost is involved??? thanks alot. - matt

PaulDaisy

I found this site when I tried to locate a PTO adapter: http://www.nv4500.com/ They seem to have lots of adapter bell housings and plates. See if this helps. But I heard a 5600 is a lot better for towing.
-P

mx684

Thanks for the site...i have located about all my brackets and things i need..im just needing info on the electronics/computer part of the swap...