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Reviving The Dead

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Old 03-15-2006, 03:12 PM
  #16  
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Take apart the fuel line from the tank to the fuel filter. Put a gallon bucket under it and turn your key on(bump the starter). This will make sure that the LP is actually pumping fuel.
Old 03-15-2006, 06:03 PM
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I will try that in the morning, it got a bit busy around here today.
Old 03-15-2006, 10:32 PM
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the cp3 may not bump up the pressure to the normal rail pressure with a pipe disconnected, without a restriction, you wouldn't generate the pressure, just flow.

there is a relay that energizes the Lp for priming, does the same relay power the lp during running? maybe a simple relay with corroded contacts, use a test light to see if the lp is still getting power after the 20 seconds are up, and you are cranking.
Old 03-16-2006, 09:59 AM
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What I did was crack the line after the fuel rail before the injector, as it shows a full line flow. Nothing with hight pressure, fixing to check the LP test flow before the filter and make sure it doesn't kick off as I am cranking.
Old 03-16-2006, 11:57 AM
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Ok guys this is what I found out:
1.LP is pumping good with a strong flow to the filter(line off before fitler in cantainer)
2.From the filter to the CP3 same as above
3.I did the test below and seems to be around that flow
(Verify fuel injection pump flow. - Route the high pressure fuel line to a graduated
container. Crank the engine until fuel exits the line (with the discharge line routed to
atmosphere, fuel will discharge at 0 PSI). Crank the engine for three 10 second
intervals, pausing to allow the starter to cool between each crank event. Fuel flow
specification is based on engine cranking speed. 1. Minimum fuel pump flow at 150
RPM; 70 mL in 30 seconds. 2. Minimum fuel pump flow at 200 RPM; 90 mL in 30
seconds. Is the fuel flow sufficient?)

Ok guys give yall input I have been thinking about this, engine was at idle when it stopped. It wasn't starving for fuel cause it would have ran rough till it used what fuel was left in the system. The engine just stopped as if someone turned off the key. Having said that, when a shoot of ether is used it does fire till the ether is burnt. Lets hear what yall think I should check next?
Old 03-16-2006, 12:06 PM
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injectors. You are not getting fuel into the combustion chamber. If your CP3 is pumping and your LP is pumping and both are in spec, you have eliminated everything but injectors on the fuel side of things. The injectors are electronically controlled, so it could be the ECM as well. I would go borrow that buddy's ECM for a while and see if it fixed anything. After that, you KNOW it is the injectors.
Old 03-16-2006, 12:09 PM
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Got a question on the ECM, if I try with another ECM do I have to flash any info on it?
Old 03-16-2006, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by need12v
injectors. You are not getting fuel into the combustion chamber. If your CP3 is pumping and your LP is pumping and both are in spec, you have eliminated everything but injectors on the fuel side of things. The injectors are electronically controlled, so it could be the ECM as well. I would go borrow that buddy's ECM for a while and see if it fixed anything. After that, you KNOW it is the injectors.
You could be right but I question one thing. 6822 said that it stopped like he turned off the key. Injectors do not usually (if ever) fail simultaneously. In this case I suspect that it would miss worse and worse before quiting. So I say it is NOT all the injectors, but something else like the ECM. Agreed, one or two injectors could have caused it to just die, but I still suspect another culprit. Of course a sudden glob of dirt entering the system after the filter may also cause this, but again, in this case highly unlikely. My vote goes to a bad ECM or the connectors.
Old 03-16-2006, 08:53 PM
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Two new batteries is a great idea.

Did the truck run on its own after you changed the Sentry Key stuff?

Bad grounds?
Old 03-16-2006, 10:45 PM
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Yes it ran on its own since november, granted I only ran it around three time a week between 30-60 mins each time. The reason I have been using a single battery is cause I have the inner fenders out for access to remove the a/c heater system and other stuff. Engine turns over fine with one battery till I get the a/c dryer back in. The inside was gutted out bone bare and all electronics except the over head stuff was replaced. Today I got a OBD2 from walley world to hold me up till I have access to the DBR. It gave me more codes than what the 3 on 3 off did:
P0192
P0699
P0236
P0073
P0517
P0720
P0069
P0073
P0699
P0236
P0192
P0517
P0720
P0069
Some repete's...from what I read on dodges service sheet the problem fall in the CP3 to the injectors, sensors and maybe the ECM. Over the next few days I will try some of the volts/ohm tests and go from there. Knowing I didn't change any sensors, ECM and main wire harness I will take a closer look at all the connections and clean em. On the '05 I can't find where the Map and IAT sensors, I did a search and it seems the pics I seen are for older version. I just don't see them on this engine. (SBishop) said I should change em and I will if I can find em.
Old 03-18-2006, 12:16 PM
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Can someone tell me by using a ECM off another truck if it would allow the engine to fire up. Also both have key sentry so it may not if the skim doesn't match the ECM.. Any answers may help me!
Update:
tried the other ECM...would not fireup, same as before. I think its a sensor or the CP3. I think the problem is that the fuel is not reaching the combustion chambers as it will fireup and burn a shot of ether.
thanks
Old 03-23-2006, 11:32 PM
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I say sell it for parts, like others with experience in this area have said. I'd be P.O.'d if I found out down the road that I bought a truck with the past that this one in particular has. Don't screw somebody over man
You might get it to run now....but again like others have said, it's always going to have problems....look at how many codes you're throwing now. They're not just going to disappear forever
Old 03-25-2006, 08:30 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Moose10
I say sell it for parts, like others with experience in this area have said. I'd be P.O.'d if I found out down the road that I bought a truck with the past that this one in particular has. Don't screw somebody over man
You might get it to run now....but again like others have said, it's always going to have problems....look at how many codes you're throwing now. They're not just going to disappear forever
================================================== =

Gee did I say I was hiding anything in any of my post, the title is branded salvage ! Did I say I was selling after I am done RESTORING what some consider a parts truck, NO ! hum, always going to have problems, I will have problems that I have not addressed so far ! All the codes I have now may be from the ECM or engine Harness that will be changed monday, seems if all the electronics have been changed whats left to give codes? I didn't come here asking if its worth fixing or its a parts truck, But you know I do remember saying I am the hands on type with no fear on learning so all the negitave post towards me fixing this truck I have this to say ( I WILL PROVE YALL WRONG ) I had a few members who gave me some advice and I would like to thank em as I will be looking for a place where they are a tad bit more friendy and understand what reviving is. For the ones who don't like the fact I will put it back on the road or the tone of my words....thats just too bad you don't have what it takes for a challenge!!!!
Old 03-25-2006, 08:41 PM
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take it easy buddy, no outright bashing or flaming here.
Old 03-25-2006, 10:21 PM
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He has caught enough flak about gettin this thing going tho...



if you had access to an ECM from the exact same truck setup (same year, same trans, same everything) it might work without a reflash, but I can't say. Sounds like that is now your problem, since I forgot the injectors are electrically actuated.


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