Reviving The Dead
 

Let me start off by saying I am new to this site and I would like to give thanks everyone thats contributes there time on sites like this. Now this is what I have, '05 2500 SLT Cummins 600 that stayed underwater for about two weeks. This is what I have done so far and maybe a few other thinks I have not said:
Drain and replaced all fluids and fitlers
Cleaned Fuel Tank & PL
Power Distribution Center
Front Control Module
Sentry Key Immobilizer Module
Sentry Key
Electronic Petal
Cluster
ALTERNATOR
Starter
Dash Harness
Firewall Forward Harness
After this was done I programed the new skim and key with a DBR, the engine would idle low and high and then ran better as it heated the moister out areas. It was reading some codes at that time but I do not remember what they were. I would run the egine and move it around the yard over a few weeks while waiting on time and parts.
Now here is the problem I have now, I was running the engine at idle as a routine and it just died as if someone pulled a wire off. Turns over good and will fire up with a shot of either (I know its not good for a engine).Here is a list of codes that it reads, some were present even while running..just don't remember what ones.
p2269-Water In Fuel ...I remeber this code being there since day one
P0633-SKIM SECRET KEY NOT ENTERED code (being there since day one)
P0581-HIGH VOLTAGE DETECTED AT THE SPEED CONTROL SWITCH (maybe code being there since day one)
P0236-MAP SENSOR TOO HIGH TOO LONG (maybe code being there since day one)
P0517-HIGH VOLTAGE AT THE BAT TEMP SENSOR
P0073-INLET AIR TEMP SENSOR VOLTAGE TOO HIGH (if this is the sensor on the air box it is not hooked up

Ok let me know what you guys think I should check, I don't have access to a DBR at this time and it may be a few weeks till I can get one.
Tried to get a image on here it didn't work...so I added it to my gallary

This truck should be parted out. You are always going to have problems with it as dirty salty water (assuming the Katrina flood) will cause mucho problems forever.

Having said that if you are determined to get it going again, start by replacing all the fluids again and working on each code til they are gone.

As curious as I am as to why you parked underwater for two weeks, will refrain from asking.
Considering what the poor truck has been thru, there could be a bunch of causes for this stoppage. I would first pull the fuel filter and see if there really is water in there. It would not surprise me if you find water going thru for a while. Of course if there is water, then the obvious thing is, purge the fuel system again.
Next, crack a fuel line at any convenient injector, crank it over and see if you are getting any high pressure fuel. Keep your hands away from this while cranking.
If you have clean, water free fuel, not quite sure where to go from there. Hopefully a real expert will chime in and guide you.

so, was this your truck before the hurricane, or after. do you have insurance, just claim it under insurance, they will total it, buy it back from them, part it out, you will make plenty of money buying it out to add parts to your new truck, just a thought, unless you had sentimental value in the truck(which we all do, but sometimes you have to put a dying horse out of her misery) :(

I am determined to continue at this time as I have not invested alot of $$ so far, I am under $5000.00 with the parts and cost of the truck. Replacing all the fluids again will not solve the starting problem. Engine oil and transmission fluid changed twice since it has been running. The fuel tank dropped and cleaned, fuel lines from tank to filter flushed and fuel filter changed. Fuel filter forward ---injectors, injector pump, injector lines and fuel rail did not have any water in the system and are still clean and water free. (Mexstan) It wasn't my idea to leave the truck under, no pun intened as It was a new truck from the Katrina flood. I did crack open a injector line but I was alone at the time so I could only see that some fuel leaked out as it was cranked, nothing that sprayed out mind you.

Underwater Truck ! !
 

:o Sounds like you bought the truck after the flood. Seems like a good idea.
My partner and I have rebuilt 4 flood vehicles over the last few years. We rebuild wrecks that we buy wholesale at the dealer auction for a profit. WHAT YOU HAVE IS PARTS !!! You can get it to run and work and it will last for a month or so and then be down again. Every single electric component, switch, contact, computor, wire connection, motors, locks, etc.etc. Price out a complete wireloom for the whole truck and all other associated parts that the wires go to prior to spending any more money.
A year from now when you think that the last of it is over something else will start screwing up. You have over $10k in hard parts that can be sold.
Best of Luck !! R C [yuk]

I am sure I will have some problems down the road but I look at it this way. When its all said and done I will be well under $10,000. and have a truck that I would trust on the road over a used one say in the range of $15,000 knowing nothing about it. Not every single electric component needs to be changed, I must say that I was suprised at some components that were water tight. Not a drop of water in any of the lamps and the harness's (connections)to em. Batterys were dead and charged, suprised that they didn't go down and they still crank the engine since without another charge except from the alternator while the egine was running. I did change a few other things like the sterring colum, a/c servo's, blower,wiper asm and a few other nick nack stuff. As it stands now the only thing from driving the truck is the engine will not run now. If you break down the component of a vehicle the worst components of todays is electronic controled parts. With that said I know what I have as I will break it down, cab to rear bumper. Wire harness's (connections)dry no corrosion, tail lights not a drop of water and work, fuel tank-lines drained and flushed, rear end opened and cleaned like the day it was put together- very small amount of water from vent tube. From the cab back the only problem I can see later on would be the disk brakes as I did not address them yet but they work with no sticking just surface rust on the rotors. Now the cab, everything in the dash changed and works, over head stuff not touched by water and works, carpet cleans and looks new, seats stripped and a set of covers from a coversion I have to put on, door locks work fine window motors cleaned and work, tranny work great...small amout of water there (quart or less) future problems from that?(who knows).Cab forward, new parts I said at the top of the post, no water in the headlamps, fog lamps, horn still blows like new,with the new wire harness and power intergrated control module-FCM-starter and so forth that leaves the front disk brakes that need to be addressed also. Now we are down to the problem I have the engine- when it was running no smoke-no nocks- would start good and ran great after the first few days(first starts up's was a little rough on idle) . I looked back at the post I made and I need to clear this up, I got the truck in Sept or Oct and it was back running a week after I got it. Everything works except the engine now that stopped a few weeks ago. Granted the ECM could or may go bad later but I still think its a small price to pay for the truck. I had many of classics over the years I got from grave yards to scream on the road...the only thing different to me would be the electric component and most of that has been changed. Now cutting cost I get new parts at dealers cost and some from wrecking yards if it cheaper and yall may be suprised at some of the parts I got new for less than a yard would let them go for. I am sure yall can tell if it was a gaser or diesel from the ole days I wouldn't have asked for help. All this electonic stuff on here is new to me but I read and learn with hands on. I am not being a smart guy, I just know what I have on my hands and its not a parts truck to me at this time!Now with all this said can anyone tell me what the fuel pressure flow should look like with a injector line cracked open?

Are the VIN numbers of such trucks some how flagged as flood damaged, so they can be identified through something like CARFAX? Do they end up with salvage titles? I just thought this would be important to protect one of us from buying this truck sometime down the road. You know not all of us are as optimistic as 68ss. :rolleyes:

I got the truck with a salvage title before Louisiana changed the laws on flooded autos. As of Nov. 05 any insurance totaled auto comes with a destruction title intered in a data base and should be on carfax ...parts only!, unless its a classic auto . With that said who will police uninsured auto's that have supose to report it, so yes some will make it back on the road with clear titles. Just look for the tale signs of a flooded auto...most are easy to see....

68ss,
You say engine fires up with a shot of ether. Does it continue to run or die again?

If it contines to run, I would suspect the LP. If it dies again, I would suspect the CP3, or anything else in the fuel delivery. Check the battery voltage and be sure they are at full charge. Low voltages on these electronic controlled engines can cause all sorts of weird problems. As well as bad, corroded connections in the wiring systems.

A word of caution on cracking injector lines on these high pressure fuel systems. YOU CAN BE SERIOUSLY INJURED!! Fuel under several thousands of lbs pressure can cut right thru you.

Engine fires up and shuts down after the shot is burned. Cranking with the injector line cracked the flow does not show any high pressure, just a line full flowing out like a water hose partly open. I still have alot to learn cause I do not know what the CP3 is. I would agree the battery is low as I only have one in it and had cranked it a few times. Thanks for your advice it is well taken!

With all the "high voltage" error codes you have, I suspect some bad electrical connnections. Since most of DC's electronics activate with applying grounds, to me a high voltage would indicate faulty connections which are preventing the application of a ground to that circuit. A high resistance in the circuit would cause a higher voltage being sensed. With the bath that the truck took, I would remove and replace the MAP, IAT, and Battery temp. sensor just to rule out that they are bad and causing you problems. Many of the codes can be cleared by just disconnecting the negative battery cable for about 30 minutes.
By any chance do you have a buddy with a 05 CTD that you could compare voltage readings at these sensors with?
When checking the sensors, check them in the circuit with a volt meter.
Many of todays sensors can be damaged if checked with an OHM meter which applies voltage(HAL effect sensors in particular).

You might try installing a fuel pressure gauge before the high pressure rail assembly to make sure you are getting fuel delivery (10 to 15 lbs) to the injector pump. I would also get 2 new batteries in there as well to eliminate low voltage and amperage problems.

Good Luck and Keep us posted!!

Gary

P.S. Welcome to the site

Thinking about your fuel delivery again.
Does the LP run when you turn your key on?
Does it run for about 20 secs when you bump the starter?
If it doesn't, then that is your first step to fix.
I assume that you have the in tank pump?
The CP3 is the high pressure injection pump that feeds your common rail. It also has an electrical connection or two on it.

I did a search on the CP3, the LP runs for a bit and then turns off (sounds normal) fuel in the tank. I plan to get a gauge after all the reading I done but from what I seen its no use to me now. The only 05 around is another one that took a bath also, its my buddys who hasn't been working on it (guess he is waiting on me to finish it). Fixing to go recheck the connection- maybe change the map sensor and if that doesn't work search what the IAT is. Oh and thanks guys for the help!