just got home and noticed a puddle of oil under the rear end the seal around the yuke is leaking pretty bad how hard is this to replace and is this something that is peasy or do i need to take it some where to have it done???

 

Looking for the same answer. Is this something a knucklehead like me can do on his back with basic hand tools?

 

thas what iam trying to find out i got a service book on it and it dont sound to hard but i just dont want to trash the reat of the rear end if you know what i mean!!

 

gotcha. I've done it on a HMMWV, but that was YEARS ago. It was pretty easy though.

 

While you're in there, check the axle vent assembly. You may have a plugged vent which can cause seal leaks due to temperature variations. My heap was plugged.

. . . Something for your preventative maintenance list (Link) (1st Gen/DANA70 axle but the idea's the same).

As for the general seal replacement procedure, here's a good example ~ http://www.jeepingsingles.net/tech/pinionseal.asp (Your bolt size may very ).

Hope this helps.

 

you'll definately need a 3/4" or larger drive socket set and some sort of breaker bar with an extension on the handle. if i'm correct, the D80s and D70s have a crush sleeve that you'll need to be careful with when you re-torque the pinion nut. Probably the best way is to count the threads that are visible on the outside of the pinion shaft before you remove the nut. Spin the pinion with one had and just take a general note as to how much force was needed to spin the thing. you might want to pull the axleshafts out, otherwise the force needed to turn the pinion will also be turning the hub bearings and friction on the brake shoes (if any). after you take the seal off and replace it, run the nut down to it's original location and check your "preload". Don't run the nut down to far. Too much preload on the pinoin bearings will cause immediate premature failure. (too much heat)

the preload on the pinion only cannot be accurately checked with the differential and ring gear in place.

to CORRECTLY do the job, it's a bear. you're SUPPOSED to replace the crush sleeve anytime torque is relieved from the pinion nut, which boils down to pulling the axlesafts, removing the carrier/diff assembly, and removing the pinion shaft to replace the crush sleeve.

it can be safely done without the crush sleeve being removed, but you have to be careful. too much preload will cause the bearings to be tight. just backing the nut off to relieve it won't work, then the pinion will be loose in housing.

i hate crush sleeves. why dana didn't leave well enough alone with shims is beyond me.